seymore

You just need to rinse the bleach real good b4 the oxalic.

nice job Doug :cool:

The citric acid might not have been strong enough?? I've used oxalic to remove rust stains and and have had mixed results.The stains go away when the wood is wet and then show up again when the wood dries. Try a stronger mix of brightner is about all you can do maby oxalic instead of citric. So those are the cedar boards not PT right they look like cedar to me?

Looks Smashing Roger...:lgwave:

Well that's how it goes soemtimes but it always helps to do a test spot :lglolly:

Show Off :lglolly: nice job :cool:

bad link Mr.PP :lgwave:

Well S/H and soap no boost....It takes patience and dwelling

It always takes multiple strips but it can be done with a simple hot mixture of S/H.

Sept 22, 1947 was the info i have from Cleaning Talk

Just watch where you walking and pay attention to what you're doing at all times.

Well Yaz you will find not all decks are created equal to how they soak up stain.IF you are using a penetrating type stain like RS on hard woods you will have to train the wood to soak in the stain.I have to do that with the new PT pine now and will explain this to customers so it's not a suprise if the stain wears off a little faster in the first year n half.It's just the nature of the beast when it comes to wood.You just have to see how it looks as you are spraying the first coats to see how the wood soaks up the stain

I would try to blend in any spots with some thinner then touch up.

I don't see why it wouldn't work Yaz the rain just washed out some of the oil.You can try a test spot to see if you have a problem getting to soak in? Did it make any water spots?

You can try to call the EPA and see what they say??

You bid the job without knowing what you gonna do? How did you price it? Did you try calling who ever is the water authority in that area? I think you would have more to worry about the water when you stain it.Like are you doing it by hand or enclose the arbor and spray it?

interesting thread :lglolly:

Woo Hoooo HAPPY B-day Beth Hope you had a great day !!! :cool: :lgwave:

Well like Larry said you can lose a lot of stain with the wrong tip to spray stain.I like using a 1.8 shurflo 60.psi shurflo with a Teejet Tip 6502 that gives me enough psi and gpm to spray stain but it's a little slow on chems.I use 2 different pumps for staining and chems.The chems need to be used with plastic or stainless fittings,triggers etc.I use brass for all stianing. I clean my staining pumps with soapy water only no mineral spirits that tend to dry out the seals in the pumps.My cleaning pumps are cleaned with soapy water.

That is soo true Larry a little common sense goes a long way in our buisness! :lgwave: :lglolly:

That's cool i just remember the shurlines i used from the Depot were trashed after a few uses! That's good to hear they holding up for ya :cool:

Yaz low long do the pads last b4 they start ripping apart? I know the older decks are tough with splinters but i like how the glue on the Padco holds up b4 ripping apart.

I spray a similar stain to TWP and I like my shurflo it's all i need.It helps to have the right tips or wand to give you the best spray pattern like this one.

cool thanks Scott i'll have to give em a try... :cool:

actually mine are midnight blue with a hint of baby blue...:D