seymore

Do a test with S/H like Rod said cause it can be stripped with a hot mix.With time and the right chems and multiple strips every stain can be stripped If all else fails Methalyne Chloride will do the trick but i would hate to strip a stain overhead with that stuff! see the MC in action on a paint i tested and i'll be stripping the house next week.

I learned not to pour the wrong bag of oxalic acid in the bucket of Sodium Hydroxide! :2eyes:

You gotta love those simple clean and especially clear sealer jobs!! :cool:

That's cool Larry :cool: I just had to give you a hard time and mess with ya! ;) I will say that is one hell of a B4/after pic it looks like you replaced the wood Great job!

Looks good Larry :cool: Was that HD 80 and then brightened? I like that fuzzy cedar post in the clean pic ;)

No prob ....pics are always nice it helps us decide what's best for wood by seeing it. I've been at this for 10 yrs and being able to look at the job either pics or in person always is a +.

Flood CWF has not been the best product here in Texas but some guys have some sucess with it.There are much better stain products on the market these days.If he is stuck on CWF then just make sure you cover your A** from premature failure in your bid. Well if you are using the same product then you don't need to strip the deck.You should use the Flood cleaners that i'm not familiar with tho.You can look at the ingrediants and see what's in them? No household bleach is 6% and the bleach i use is more of an industial strength at 12%.You can still use household bleach if that's all you have.It might just take longer to work but it's the only chem that will kill the mildew. Fuzzies only go away with sanding and it is almost impossible to prevent with the soft cedar wood.

Well i just realized you said the deck hadn't been sealed in 5 years so YES you need to strip it is you're not using the same product as before. You would need to strip it then brighten once the deck is clean of the old sealer.

No need to strip gray wood with no stain but with cedar you jsut need to use as little pressure as possible. Since you are using Flood's stain then you should use their cleaners.Which Flood stain you using? I would use 1 gal of 12% bleach 4 gallons water and some soap.Spray it on and rinse it off light pressure. You can use a brightner but if you use bleach be sure to rinse the bleach off reallll good!

Looks sweet Rick!! :cool: 80degrees here today but windy like u wouldn't believe!!

Hmmmmm $500 or $600 but i really can't say for sure without meeting the customer.I would for sure try to get the job also because it's redwood and i don't see it much. I can send you stain that looks great on RW it's 1/2 brown/1/2 RW so it's not to bright red.The brown tones it down jsut right!

NAhhh i wouldn't run....Now unless you were about to fall thru the floor? Did the floor bounce or feel like the fram was shot? i would make them see there is no need for that big ole railing on such a small deck close to the ground! Rip the rail down then nail a 2x6 facia around the deck and clean and stain! :cool: P>S I will run well walk a away from a job that i know won't be worth the time or the $$... either it's a customer that i will get the feeling they will be dificult to please no matter what i do.....I will be fair on the price depending on the work that is needed to be done and i will not lower my quality of work to be able to give a cheaper price.I only know one way to work and it's all or nothing.I also will walk away from people that don't appreciate the work i do and can get a feel abou that pretty fast. I would say that job would be cheaper to replace the decking it's so small

I don't use the heavy marine batteries so it's not that heavy! Here is my setup almost like my stain set up but without the filter on the pick up tube.

There is no water supply the shurflo pump is pulling the chems out of a pre mix bucket of chems. I'll post my pic later of the set up it's nothing extravagant but it gets the jobs done! :cool:

Replace the board is the only thing you can do stop the problem all together.Removing the sap by spot sanding and touch up as needed.I hope you're using a stain that's gonna blend in that would make it so much easier.

It's sap leaching out it's the nature of the PT PINE beast! You can scrap it sand it and i've seen oxalic melt it when after stripping.You can't stop it till it's ran it's sap course. Are you can replace the board. It's more noticable when you put a darker stain then the sun makes the sap crystalize.

Happy B-Day OLD Man ;) Hope you had a great Day! Why does it say 39 here on the TGS??? :rolleyes:

WOW hardwoods splintering like that i would ahve never thought that could happen?? Looks like mildew to me....do a test spot with some bleach to verify the mold.It's not suprising for it to come from the linseed oil and veggie oil The cracking boards are dry from the sun and you're saying this wood was just built and the linseed oil was applied 3-4 mths ago? What are you choices for stain down under mate?

Cool Thanks Jarrod :cool: That machine did sound kinda weak but hey he got it cheap ;)

Glad to hear your biz is picking up Stephen...we haven't had to advertise in the last 10-15 yrs since Home Shows :cool: I do get refferals from deck,custom home builders tho. Where the deck staining pics?? You still using RS? I still like using my shurflo for chems to be able to control the overspray and strength.

YEah he is great guy and his biz has been picking up which is good.He's pretty happy i can sell him stain for 18.50 gal too! His first job with me was an 2Ksqft arbor that made for a long day.He then realized why so many guys here hate to work on them! :D We only used 400 ft of plastic! I'm glad you were able to sell all your equipment :cool:

Chems from Lowes are not any better than bleach and some soap and will save you $$! You can mix 2 gallons of bleach and 3 gallons of water and a few good squirts of dish soap in a pump up sprayer instead of injecting it.The p/washer dillutes your chems and it would help you better to use a pump up. Spray the fence and let it dwell for 10 min or so keep it wet with water.Then p/wash off evenly it does help if you move torwards the dirty sections so you are rinsing the wood fibers at the same time. "make sense"?

Ahh PC=precarb...did it turn the wood dark? I've never used it but i've heard it turns the wood dark. Since the IPE is SO bullet proof and rock hard why not use bleach/soap? What if you have mildew deep in the wood and the prevarb doesn't remove it? Now you gonna have mildew coming up from under the stain. I had that problem after stripping cedar and i only used stripper and oxalic.It looked great when wet but when i came back to stain it was all black and blotchy.Cleaned with bleach again then it was good to go.So it was a lesson i'll never let happen again. 1.strip 2. bleach RINSE RINSE 3. Oxalic

Does your fence look like this? You can make it look like this real easy

I take it it's all painted wood siding? You should really look at the X-Jet for cleaning your house it can shoot up 25-30' in the air with a adjustable tip for low pressure... you can find it here....The X-JET long range nozzle is now available as the M-JET nozzle. The M-Jet has all the features of the X-JET except it comes with a variable nozzle on the outlet of the nozzle. The M-Jet is to be used on jobs where the zero degree impact of the orig