seymore

Oxalic for the rust and bleach will help even the old and new boards a little better but you can't work magic.Try some sanding like Ken said but you have to even the whole board out if you sand.

Yikes $50 a gallon?? WOW! Rich is actually right to use a weaker chem especially since your deck is mostly stripped already.You might just have to work on the rails a little harder.

The HD80 would make your job probally easier than the weaker EFC-38.You should be able to mix it at min strength and just let it dwell. Don't forget you need to use the brightner/neutralizer after using Sodium Hydroxide strippers.Russ uses a citralic acid a mixture of oxalic and citric acid. There are times when stripping wood you will need to use a multiple process depending on how much old stain is still hanging on.

If you want to try some different chems that will work go to ... www.restore-a-deck.com The trick with stripping is dwell time the longer the better to let the chems work.

You can try calling Scott Millen StainlessDeal Mobile Pressure Wash, Omaha NE 68114 Reach me anytime at: (402) 670-4214 or smillen87@aol.com That deck didn't look like the floor had much color on it and it should have stripped off pretty easy

I can help you discuss the stripping process etc.If you would like just call me anytime.If you have any pics that would be very helpful? I'm one of the few that uses the Gray Away so if you are interested in the Gray Away i would be able to help with any questions.I'm in Houston so our climate is not all that different maby you get a few more tornados that i do here :D

That close up pic you can see the little dots and even the where the spot is still brown you can see the sap leaching out.It's just the nature of the beast when it comes to Pressure Treated Pine and sap! There are some decks i've had to scrape off the sap with a paint scraper then sand and touch up.That sap can get pretty gooey at times!!

Looks like sap to me Ken that can be light sand the spots and touched up.It will blend in just fine .

Just put the mat in the same place problem solved! ;) I have a hell of a time to touch my Gray Away when cleaning "bleach" after removing the mat.Now I'm not trying to remove the stain 100% anyway cause it will blend in after i stain the deck.I think when working with a stain it's very important for the stain to be able to blend in when doing maintance work or touch-ups.

The mat leaking sillycone makes sense Brent way to go on the research!:lgkeyboar

I bet he bought a Quad Venti 7 pump White Choc Mocha with white mocha drizzle $5.85... :cool: :D

Thanks Rick :cool: He had been using some linseed oil "dummy huh"? With all the humidity we have here i would hate to see those decks after 6 months-1yr they're probally black as ever with mildew!

http://www.kbkgraphx.com/index.html quite a few people use Keith on the TGS

I found this one guy using this "Angel heart" http://www.ipe-wood.com/angelim.html#install_guide He was asking me about buying some clear to apply after he finished building just to give the decks a nice oiling.I'm still licking my chops hoping to get a chance to walk on one atleast give a bid.

Rick the last pic with your Teak furniture looks good.It looks like you got all the stain in that area. How are you sanding your deck belt sander?

Don't go look for the bleach at Jim Foley or Rick Aka Bleach Bandito Petry's house they didn't do it they were with me the whole night i swear officer! :cool:

Put your pick up tube in a bucket of soap/water and run your pump till it builds back up the pressure.While you are doing this drain that excess of stain back into the bucket. When it starts getting water in the hose/wand it will start spitting/getting air.Then drain your water where ever you can,I'll rinse off grass with this soapy water. This is how i clean my shurflo pumps...:cool:

They worked pretty good after they get soaked with stain so it doesn't snag on the rough cedar 2x2's.I spray mostly all my railings where possible which is the fastest way.

TWP "Total Wood Preservative" is a oil base stain that i would think you might be able to find it in your area? I always thought it was available in most areas but I might be wrong.

If they are "new" customers they are only watching out for their investment they hired you to clean.If they want to inhale the chems after you warned then they are on their own.I wouldn't be suprised if that guy had bad contractor exp. People are just curious by nature some of us are just can't help it! Jon you killing me over here that's TOO funny getting grandpa to be your helper but hey he's probally bored out of his mind. I get a lot of window watchers mostly they will usually let me do my thing and leave me alone.They get a kick out of my shurflo pump set up it's simple and does the job fast. On a diff "elder" subject how bout all the old folks getting all those STD's huh? I bet they are not bored with all that stock in the little BLUE pill! :D

Look for some TWP in your area or a similar oil base penetrating stain. whats in that roof magic that makes it so magic?

Nice looking job Curtis what did you clean it with? Blackjack, New PT lumber does need to be maintained eventually if it's exposed to the weather no matter what anybody says.When wood goes thru wet/dry cycles baking in the sun it ages so fast.You will have to keep it protected from the weather rain/sun/snow if you want it to last and not grow up to be firewood! If you want anything to last and look good you have to maintain it like a clock yearly or every other year.Hell you still have to maintain the composites that are supposed to be maintance FREE atleast clean it for mildew. The only way PT wood can go without getting protected if it is under some kind of enclosed porch or arbor etc.not getting wet at anytime.

HEYYYY we're not I-friends and charge $4.99 a min. :D That's what i've heard they charge ..:o

The only way to completely restore this cedar would be to use a Sodium Hydroxide stripper"very caustic" letting it dwell keeping it wet.Be very careful using caustics they burn like hell so protect yourself!You the want to rinse off the stripper at a low pressure.I can see where the previous p/washer made som marks.Those won't come off when you strip and clean the cedar this time.Now there are times when multiple coats of stripper is needed till old the stain is removed.The old stain will be seen in the water runoff as it's removed.You have to be carefull around painted surfaces cause the paint can be stripped off also.You then want to use a wood brightner after all the old stain has been removed. The only consumer cleaning products i have used was Sherwin Williams stripper and brightner.They were not too bad for needing it in a pinch when i had to. This is the process you would have to do to strip and clean this cedar to use a semi trans stain.It's not easy work but keeping the beauty of the cedar to re stain it will be worth it on the eyes! Now as for just cleaning the mildew your bleach mixture is not strong enough and you need to use some kind of soap.I've never used TSP but have used THC a long time ago but not in cleaning wood.:cool: You are welcomed to call me anytime.

That's exactly my thoughts so what Celeste said :cool: Don't hide the beautiful grain of cedar if you can help it.I think it's worth the maint.to keep up rather than have it look like all the other painted houses.