seymore

NO prob Carlos :cool:

Ahh ok Behr is that a oil based never used it before? I've seen some guys wrap the post with 3/4 or 1/2" cedar which is mostly what i stain. For those arbors with anchors you could make a trim on the bottom to cover them.Take some 2x2's and cut @45's to trip the base.

Oh yeah what kinda stain you using on those arbors? You don't wrap the post to hide the anchors?

Great looking arbors and patio Carlos :cool: I wish i could stain my arbors before they build them but i don't get that lucky!

What do most of you use pump up's for spraying chems or stain?

Rod, WOW that must have been scary!! I was lucky and didn't have anything under my deck but dirt. The only bad thing about my problem was the stain was gushing out allover my face.It made me realize how important SAFTEY glasses are!! :cool:

2 of us year round and looking to expand this Spring and Summer :cool:

My shur flo pumps have problems every now and then.I like to carry 2 extra pumps for cleaning and staining.I actually carry 2 of everything wands,pumps,pick up tubes,batteries etc. I did have a hose on my wand burst on me the other day shooting sealant allover me that was fun! It was a good thing i was not near the house or any stone.It happened out in the middle of the deck Whewww!

I have this new PT deck and arbor that had these green spots in the grain of the wood. I used some bleach on it that made it look better but you still could see it. My only other thought was to sand it when i go back to stain the job. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Those green spots on my job didn't go away i stained today but putting a darker stain helped hide them a little.

That crappy PT wood makes our hard work look crappy! Those stripes are just sap you can sand it off but it's gonna come back in time.Especially when the sun hits it and the sap melts.It's gonna crystalize and you have to sand and touch up.You know the builder could have just used the other side of the board.:rolleyes:

The Pats are gonna take the trophy again this year even tho Terrel Owens MIGHT play.TO MUCH DEFENSE!! Giving Belicheck 2 weeks to get ready for McNabb is gonna be too much. :D Philly has no weapons beside Westbrook McNabb and T.O. Tom Brady is about the most smart and accurate passer in the NFL! He was throwing the ball lastnight as good as it gets. Yeah they are boring at times but hey they score 41 lastnight so we might have a barn burrner Super Bowl! The next Houston Super Bowl returning to Reliant Stadium SOON! GO TEXANS!!!!

Jim That's too funny and it's almost St.Patty's Day too! Rod Yes the spots looked a little turquoise before I tried cleaning the job.They were changing colors as the wood was drying leaving more of just dark spots. That really makes sense if it's the chems are leaking thru the boards. So in other words this is becoming common in this new PT wood we have to stain now a days? Thanks everybody for the help and input!! :cool: Oh yeah if that's not bad enough the whole job has strap marks allover the arbor and deck! Charlie, Where would someone get a test done at on something like this?

Cujo, Can i get a copy of that spreadsheet? I would like to see if i can make my life a little easier. I've been adding all my numbers the old fashion way.I even figure the sqft per boards of the 2x8's or 2x12 on my arbors.I try not sell myself short anywhere on the sqft of a job. seymore1024@gmail.com

Celeste, Do you figure out the sqft of all the 2x12's or 2x8's whichever is underneath the upper deck? How much Lft of railing is that 100 -150? Are you including the railing at the sqft? Doing the upper deck by hand...spraying? I would try to mask the house with plastic. So higher $$ when i have to use plastic. I would charge a little more sqft wise for the upper deck.$1-1.50 Oh and that looks like vynal siding? I hate working around that stuff!! That upper section and underneath i wouldn't look forward to doing but the lower deck you should be able to fly thru it :) I would say $2500-$3000

Hope you have a great day Reed!!:lgkick:

Degraff When i'm P/washing I can see the dead wood coming off as i am cleaning.The same goes for and old sealer/stain you would be stripping.You want to try to get it all off and have the grain of the wood even and not blotchy. Not all decks act the same depending on the age of the wood or the UV damage or old sealer you're trying to remove. The only important part of cleaning is that the wood be clean and have a even look to the grain of the wood. To master deck cleaning will just come with practice and more practice.You will find lot's of guys have different ways of cleaning decks.Everybody is still trying to achieve the same goal. You will find little tips that will help speed up the cleaning process and make you more efficient at your job.I'm always thinking ahead and looking at what the finished project will look like. Trying not to overlook something that will cause problems when you return to stain the job. I'm usually up early and late also so the 2 hr diff is not a big deal call anytime.

Yes the fuzzies are the dead wood fibers and if you P/wash good enough you can remove them with not having to sand.

That's a funny example to explain the color of people to the wood tone diffrence. 90% of my spindles are gonna be cedar versus pine. I usually the just say it's gonna accent the diffrent species of wood and give the deck character. I think the age of the wood and chem strength and also the sun damage the wood has will cause more fuzzies.

I would think the decking might not furr as bad cause it's harder wood.The 2x2's on the railing especially tend to be softer. The older the deck gets the floor will soften up and will furr up with stronger chem use...water preassure etc.. If i see the wood looks like it will fuzz up on me which does not happen that often.When i'm cleaning i will try to p/wash it off so it's not left when the wood dries. Stripping a deck is probally the worst for getting a fuzz but i've learned to minimize it.

You want to only clean a deck with only cold water.Using hot water will cause the wood to swell up and expand.This can cause the boards to crack even more than normal. This could be the reason the wood is furring up on you more than just using cold water. Your belt sander should work just find except for those hard to reach places.A palm sander might work better around the railing and spindles. If you want to call me i would be glad to help you out with cleaning and sealing tips.In 8 years i've leaned alot of little tips to make my life much easier.

Most wood that will fuzz up on you is because it's the dead wood fibers.Most of the time that will happen to cedar especially since it's so soft. Was the railing not made out cedar? When you go back after it dries and then sand,It should come off much easier. The stronger chem strength will cause some wood to get fuzzy especially if it's really greyed and weathered. I have never cleaned with anything else but bleach and soap or my S.hydroxide stripper.I will only have wood get fuzzy when i strip and that's not all the time. So I'm not sure how strong the chem is that you used.

Hardy Plank I see it all the time it's great stuff.It will last forever being made out of concrete. You will get mildew growing on it over time as the paint breaks down.

Outlaw You can call Bates Chemical Co. in Liberty.They will deliver to Tomball/Magnolia area. I keep my bleach drums covered up and sometimes have to keep them around for a few months.I'm not sure how weak it can get over time cause i sure can't tell.

I'm looking to find some stainless disconnects for my shurflo chem set up.The bleach is killing my brass ones now.I try to spray them with WD-40 but they still get corroded.