GymRat

Ditto, listen to Mike. I was also using the hand cart with 50' of hose and a 15 gallon drum with the m-5. Downstreaming with an injector is a ton less taxing on your body and saves time and uses less chemicals with the same results. Call Bob at Pressure Tek http://www.pressuretek.com/, and he will hook you up and have you on your way. Give it a try, it will cost you less than 50 bucks for an educated opinion, and another attack weapon for those nasty houses.

I did my first downstreaming this past weekend, and have to agree, it is much easier and less taxing on the body not having to pull a cart around tangling the soap hose with the high pressure hose. The knot monster always seems to tie my two hoses up when I'm xjetting. I love only having to pull one hose and it only takes about 10 seconds for my line to clear (200'). I was running a 4000psi/5.5 gpm machine and using the adams injector and it worked great. It does take a little longer to kill the real bad green stuff, but that is not a big deal. It only took me one bucket of detergent for a 2300 sq foot house with a detached garage and a shed, and of course that bucket stayed at the trailer. I want to work on trying some different nozzle sizes. I am using a 6540 for close range soaping, 0040 for long range soaping and my m-5 for all rinsing. So the m-5 still has its place, because it is great for adusting for short or long range rinsing and still has the power to get the green moss off of the foundation of houses. I need some advice on a good mid range soaping nozzle, I guess I will call Bob at Pressure Tek.

The m-5 has been my money maker also with the same set-up that you are using with a 15 gallon drum on a cart and it is a lot easier than buckets. I will be trying to downstream tomorrow with an adams injector and several size nozzles for the first time. I have to try it, to see for myself, and have an educated decision on which I like best. The gutters look great!

I have used cascade as an additive to my house wash mix and I do beleive it does help on windows. I will normally add 3 good squirts to a 5 gallon bucket.

Quick question, If you have a 4000psi/5.5 gpm pressure washer which calls for a 5.5 nozzle orifice, would you use two 2.5 nozzzles or two 3.0 nozzles for your surface cleaner? I know the 3.0 tips would cut my pressure to 3500, but I was concerned with what the 2.5 tips do, since they are a little undersized for my machine.

http://forums.thegrimescene.com/showthread.php?t=829&highlight=tower Hope this helps.

I agree with Dustin, I have done a bunch of houses with numerous plants and gardens close to the house, and have always pre-wet, weakened my chlorine mix and rinse, rinse, rinse without any damage.

Could you make it bleach proof. LOL

Sorry I didn't chime in earlier, some times I get lazy and don't voice my opinion. I a'm trained in firefighting at my real job and we always open the hydrants fully because of this reason of Under mining due to the drain valve is not closed off until the hydrant is almost fully open. These drain valves are in place below the freeze line for obvious reason. Some areas that are not subject to freezing temps may not have this type of hydrant. Moral of the story is, you may have one heck of a hole in the ground if you try throttling the main hydrant valve.

I have been to a few homes this year and found vinyl siding with these Zorro signatures from a job gone bad a few years ago. Sometimes these marks are hard to see on dirty vinyl. You can only see these marks at certain angles, so be warned of the traveling Zorro, so you don't get blamed for this mess. I don't like to come behind these disasters, because it will appear that you caused this mess.

I like to wear nylon jogging type pants and a white tee shirt or polo. The nylon withstands the sodium hypochlorite, and the white tees and or white polo shirt don't show bleach spots. I also wear a white hat for the same reasons.

That is exactly my thoughts on rain during a house wash. I would much rather have an overcast or light rain when doing a house wash. I can soap down a lot more area without having to worry about it drying on the windows, and you don't have to worry about the homeowner looking over your shoulder ( or getting in your way) if the rain is coming down.

The only problem would be if you are using the water tank inline with a float valve, you usually won't recognize the problem until the tank is empty.

I don't think they make any PPE that can prevent that from eventually harming you.

I will be buying a cold water belt drive 8gpm machine in the next few weeks, and would like some opinions on if it is worth $500 more for a 3500 psi vs a 3000 psi machine. 95% of my jobs are residendial house washes, driveways, etc.

I like some of your ideas but would think that mounting the battery/pump a little lower would still allow room for the bucket, and make it a little less top heavy. I would rather have pneumatic wheels verses the the hard wheels for maneuverability. Great job, and I always love to design things with the help of this board.

I use a brush on an extension pole basically as a way to apply my cleaner on 2 story houses without having to use a ladder. Most of the time I don't have to scrub with the brush, just brush it on, and rinse. My concern is it sounds like you would waste a lot of the cleaning solution using a pump up, and would have to use a ladder to apply your cleaner.

I wasn't looking at a total time, just the high score for snake and saw how many times you guys name were listed with the time for each individual game. WoW

Dang, if the time is correct when you guys have been playing these games, you must be staying up late to play and have put a lot of hours in. I don't have the attention span to sit and play games all night, but if it keeps you going, go for it.

Mike, Have you tried the Sunbrite Citrus cleaner yet? My 55 gallon drum of citracleen is down to its last few gallons and I will be ordering some new stuff sometime this week. I sould like someones opinion that has been using citracleen like myself, to give me there proffesional comparison of the 2 products. Thanks, John

I used Sherwin Williams "Armor Coat" heavy duty floor coating along with a small container of the sand coat I mixed in to keep it from being slick as eel snot. I have had the trailer a little over a year and the paint is just as good as new, and I'm sure glad I added the sand to keep it safe. I painted the floor, about a foot up on the walls and the back door (ramp).:lgsideway

I have run a 20" surface cleaner with a washer the same size and it did a great job, just had to walk slower than normal. Check the rating on the surface cleaner and buy the one that fits your specs.

Ditto

The problem in my area, is with an open trailer is equipment sometimes find legs and walk away. Its also nice to just close your trailer door at the end of a day and not worry about the weather. I believe it to be a safety issue with chemicals and fuels on a open trailer that children and pets may get into.

You can run water in the gutter at the farthest point from the down spout and verify a good flow coming out of the down spout. You can also attach a mirror to an extension pole to take a look at the inside of the gutter from above if there is no gutter guards.