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topcoat

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Posts posted by topcoat

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On the residential side, its a joke. People have bought right into "getting a good deal right now." Our services to higher end clientele has not diminished nor have prices but there is way, way more budget accountability and tracking than ever before. I still say that those businesses that survive will come out of it very strong and efficient and hopefully take advantage of the rebound.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    If thats what it comes down to - where we have to start spiking products with products - I'll do that. Heck, we used to mix poly, turpentine and raw linseed oil to make a pretty badass handrubbed interior wood finish. Most of us have chemistry experiments going on wash or strip jobs. If we know that the formulations as manufactured are likely to fail in certain real world exposures and applications, what would we have to lose by spiking? Not much.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Scott - if it was me - to get a stain to last long on ipe - I would kill it with OX - and then use a 'through' drying type tung oil based stain, something that dries rock hard. As you know from painting - the older lead style oil based paints dried enamel hard - and on top of original growth dense wood, house paint jobs lasted forever. Now we have 'marshmallow' growth wood - so paints have to flexible in order to last.

    Dan - thats a good analogy for the situation. Are you describing something like a Waterlox exterior? What would be your product preference for an application like this? It would be nice to stumble upon something that would work for these "perfect storm" finish situations that we find ourselves in sometimes.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    ipe is a hard animal to deal with, Scott, I hope I never get stuck with the stuff. Not that it needs staining to protect it like Rick and Jim have pointed out - but it will lose it's nice coating. I will definitely be upfront with folks thinking that anything over 9-12 months of longevity is possible

    I totally agree Dan. Any wood that has the structural density of steel just does not want to take much penetrating oil. It didnt like Sikkens either in that exposure. I hate to see them go silvery gray like weathered teak furniture, either. They are so beautiful when maintained but I agree with your earlier statement that the maintenance costs on a large deck are absurd. It only works for the customers who have lots of social gatherings and want everything to look perpetually perfect. This particular customer has seen the deck weather every year for 9 years, so they are not expecting the world. I would like to think there is a formulation that could be successful here, but I really doubt it.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Heres an ipe deck that we stripped Sikkens off last October and then applied Penofin hardwood. I went back in July to check things out (we are stripping the house this year) and was mortified. The deck looked as if we had never been there last fall.

    Some of you are describing Penofin turning black, which I have never seen, but I have also never seen it completely disappear in less than a year. Granted, out of all the homes we work on, this one has the toughest lake exposure I have seen, but still...holy crap.

    Anyone have any feedback on the Marine Penofin?

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