Littlefield
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Posts posted by Littlefield
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The original thread is not lost, it is just below this one in the forum. Give it a while, and one of the mods will delete this one. It must have got hacked somehow, or the software got confused and created another thread. I'm only a mod in the wood forums, so I can't help....
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Just make sure to press the calibrate button before you insert the pins, thats the one with the check mark that always reads 12%. Then insert, and press the button with the water drop on it. Presto.
You can convert with a chart for temp and species.
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I've used both, Ilike the wheeled ones
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Severe Strip is for film forming stains. it is not stronger than Remove, it just works better on film stains. Yes it works good, I like getting the 30 gallon drums, I use them over later. They are shipped as a concentrate, so you don't pay for shipping a lot of water. Fill up to top, then apply to deck. Different for Remove, starts as slurry, fill to top, then you have a concentrate. Cut 4 to 1 with water, and you have a RTU mix, (Ready To Use)
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delmhorst J-lite
The J Lite has no moving parts to break, just nice little LED's to light up the moisture amount.
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Exterior products for decks are stain/sealer in one. Stay away from something that is just trying to get water to bead up, IE Thomsons Water Seal. As Ken says, go for Cabot clear solutions, they have some with a little tint, but really, feel them out about more tint, a year later, they are never disappointed.
By the way, for verticals, including spindle/railing assemblies, and siding, it is possible to get several different water based and oil based stain coat, clear coat systems.
Weatherall, Permachink, and Sashco, all make stain / clear systems that hold up well.
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Why The Low Pressure If You Are Using A Black Tip..the Chems Come Out Anyway.?The black tip is what is lowering the pressure.
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Since many stains are oil based, the sodium hydroxide will act as a high powered degreaser, and emulsify the stain, breaking it and its adhesion down. Low pressure water will then remove all the stain.
Start looking at ingredient labels, and you will find Sodium Hydroxide in all kinds of things.
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In theory, yes. Try dropping the pressure with a nozzle, and see the difference. Getting closer allows the water particles to stay tighter on impact, giving you a net larger effect than shooting with high powered mist.
Phillip, our resident applied physics graduate, can expound more....
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Is there a reason you don't want this new phase of your company associated with the Hood cleaning one? Is the name of you old company too focussed or something like that?
You could advertise it as an "Exterior cleaning division" etc, or as a similar company name with a tagline differentiating it but still keeping the name recognition you already have.
PS We need a signature line in your posts, to better help you as well as follow the BB rules. See the sticky thread at the begining of each forum.
Thanks.
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Bone dry may be easier to tell, but I think the moisture meter is just for keeping honest people honest. I use my J-Lite all the time. Seems that the touch and feel thing seems more car salesmeny than actually KNOWING how wet the wood is. Also, some of us use more than one stain, and need to know for instance if the wood is at 12, 18, or 26 percent moisture before application. Anyone care for a kiss off to determine that?
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Just testing out my new laptop stand from my truck out in front of a local Wi-fi outlet that makes great sandwiches.
I have QB Pro Contractor loaded and running, and am working on downloading email as well.
Job costing is done onsite and immediately as reciepts are called in or inputted directly by me as I make purchases.
Spring is here, lets get it goin'!!
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Not neutralizing after stripping will yield darker wood, with tannins being drawn up to the surface and left there. Also, the stain may fail quicker due to .....drumroll........saponification. A cleaning agent reacting with the oil based stain in an attempt to convert it to soap.
Saponification is the hydrolysis of an ester under basic conditions to form an alcohol and the salt of the acid. Saponification is commonly used to refer to the reaction of a metallic alkali (base) with a fat or oil to form soap.
CH2-OOC-R - CH-OOC-R - CH2-OOC-R (fat) + 3 NaOH ( or KOH) both heated →
CH2-OH -CH-OH - CH2-OH (glycerol) + 3 R-CO2-Na (soap) R=(CH2)14CH3 (for example) Lye is a form of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) which is a caustic base. If NaOH is used a hard soap is formed, whereas a soft soap is formed when potassium hydroxide (KOH) is used.
Vegetable oils and animal fats are fatty esters in the form of triacylglycerols. The alkali breaks the ester bond and releases the fatty acid and glycerol.
The soap is salted out by precipitating it with saturated sodium chloride.
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Anyone have this in their contracts/scope of work. Phrasing such as " Stain will be applied according to manufacturers specs and will be free of drips, sags, lap lines, light spots/holidays, etc visible from greater than 10' away, blah blah blah? I know PDCA has standards for paint, how about us? If not, reckon WRAPI could get on this ASAP? I know everyone is busy, but maybe we can get the ball rolling. Anyone care to add to the above?
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According to russell, there is no problem with applying a second coat of WTW to ad protection, or change a color. Why not just apply a second, darker coat to bring them in line with each other? The steps will take on a non skid characteristic with the second application, esp. when wet. Not a drawback in my opinion with steps....
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Well, Don, glad we got the product thing straightened out, threw me there for a minute.
To be honest with you, I've really hardly ever had a problem with getting a deck to brighten unless I haven't gotten it to strip bare properly.
So, you really have a stripping problem, not a brightening one.
If I'm in doubt at all about the stain coming off when I FIRST start to PW, I splash a little ox down to see if I get the color shift. If so, I proceed, if not, more dwell on the SH (sodium hydroxide)
Personally, I can't tell from your pics if there's a problem or not. I think theres a pretty dramatic change on the two areas you acid treated, don't you? Have you seen it since it dried? If there's anything left on the wood, you'll have to strip again, or just buff aggressively, depending on the amount you are dealing with.
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Rick! Nice save. I guess those Wolmans certs are good for something, huh? I totally forgot that was what they called their percarb cleaner.
Don, you got to be thrilled that the deck looks that good BEFORE you even brighten, right?
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Mike, I hate this, but its too obvious not to....
A Lance Lance. Duuuhhhh.
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Maybe Russell will jump in here with an official answer to the thinning question, but at a recent gathering in ATL, water, mineral spirits, and xylene were mentioned as acceptable thinning agents. Choose your poison! Also, thinning and appl;ying more coats may give you more of a bite into the wood, being that its so dense. Cobalt and zirconium have been added to WTW to allow exceptional bonding between coats.
I know as far as painters go, multiple thin coats tend to give better protection, and less peeling. I would think the same would apply here.
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Rabela, you are right about most of the Sikkens products forming some kind of film. Stay away.
I would go with something like James mentioned, these products are fairly easy to apply, with Readyseal being the easiest, and also easy to maintain. Readyseal at least I know has a cumulative effect that will make the finish last longer with each application, and richen the color with subsequent coats, not just darken it.
This is from personal experience with it, not hearsay.
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Matt, looks good. Sometimes hard work is the only way to make something look great. Don't begrudge that, view it as a testament to your character. Lots of guys would have just stained over the fur. If you mixed HD 80 at 2 oz per gallon, and it sat only 5,6 minutes and furred like crazy, heres what may have happened.
1. Too much pressure. Water volume is what you want to depend on.
2. You accidentally mixed stronger than you thought.
3. Sometimes crap happens. If you already cleaned/stripped it before, it may have just been too much for the wood to handle. Today one of my guys freaked because some sodium percarb on a wall for 15-20 minutes, and rinsed with a soap tip; furred slightly. Sometimes something surprises you even after years in the biz. If nothing ever does, you're not out there enough.
by the way, an osborn brush at 3.5 would get you out of there at about 200 sqft/hr. They disperse the fuzz much better than any sandpaper I've ever used.
Jonathan,
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Readyseal light brown. Even if you're brushing, its easiest to use, esp. if you have a helper....helping.
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Rick! that was you and Shane out on the road behind my house the other night in the red pickup? Lucky for me, I could just make out the new billboard they put up that says call if you are illiterate and want to learn to read, or I would never have known you were poking your cheek at me with your tongue. Now if I could just figure out how to use more periods.....
Guess what I found in my pressure washing trailer tool box yesterday? An almost empty bottle of Clorox! I felt so ashamed, I almost drank it.
All kidding aside, I think you may have misunderstood my earlier post, or just want to misunderstand me. Either way, here goes.
Some people may know how to use bleach and get great results.
They don't live near here.
Unless your name is Earl and you live near me, and you know who you are... You can't take offense at a geographic remark unless you pack up and move.
Scott,Yes. I am functional. Questionable, maybe.
Please do not take offense to the Georgia reference. It was a "tongue in cheek" poke at another poster that insinuated that woodies that use bleach are low ball scum with rusted pickup trucks that ruin homes.
The said poster was from Georgia.
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You can be fined for just attaching, (read: magnet to outside) it to the mailbox. Stinks really, we pay for the mailbox and the government owns it?! I thought maybe I'd send them a bill for the lease on the post. ;)
HD-80 Mixing Instructions
in Chemicals & Safety
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Following is a set of mixing instructions I wrote up for my guys after speaking with Russell Cissell. This is in no way officially endorsed by him, and I welcome all critiquing of this method. It is premised on the fact that you cannot scoop from a bucket of HD-80 and get consistent results every time, because of settling and stratification of the powdered ingredients. By mixing a whole bucket, you get exactly the mix ESI intended EVERY time. If you've ever had problems with HD 80 not being consistent, THIS will fix it. We jsut stripped 3 coats of 6 month old Sikkens Cetol system off a tongue and groove ceiling with NO furring with this mix! Pics to come in a day or two.
HD 80 Mixing instructions
Empty and rinse well 20 gallon mixing drum, saving what’s in it in 5 gallon buckets that can be marked.
Fill halfway with water.
Dump one 10 lb container of HD-80 into the water, and begin mixing while filling to the 20 gallon mark. Be careful not to touch the sides of the drum with the paddle mixer, or you will shave off plastic that will clog the pumps.
You now have a full strength mixture of 8 oz by weight per gallon of water. You will want to add 1 gallon of ethylene glycol, (safe antifreeze) to the 20 gallon mixture.
Save half the strong mixture into two other 5 gallon buckets, and add 1.5 oz of Hangtime per gallon to each bucket. This is your boosted, thickened mixture for stripping full film Sikkens. It stillwon't be fun, but it's doable if you have the patience for it.
It won’t LOOK thicker, DO NOT ADD more Hangtime, as it will not work better than this, and will turn the whole bucket into gel that cannot be pumped or reconstituted into a thinner mixture, no matter how much you paddle mix it!!!!!!
Take what’s left in the drum, and add 10 more gallons of water, this is your 4 oz per gallon mix, suitable for reapplications to where the stain is ALMOST but not quite gone.
If you have a failing penetrating stain, cut this in half again to strip with little or no furring.
Keep the thicker mixture wet with the 4 oz stripper. Don’t keep reapplying thick stuff to rehydrate.