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COOPER

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Posts posted by COOPER


  1. The only problem I see with a truck mounted set up is if the truck is down the whole thing is down. If it is on a trailer then you can always hook it up to another truck. But if you mount it on a good dependable truck the convienence of not having a trailer may be better. Also if you don't work on your own equipment and the maching needed to be work on at your dealer, you may have to leave the truck with them.


  2. That is true Russ. He ended up coming up to our shop and looking over what we had in the showroom and decided on a lot bigger gas machine on wheels so he could use it on some of his jobsites easier. He repairs forklifts at local factories. He bought the bigger machine and now offers cleaning of the forklifts. I never would badmouth Northern, they have a lot of very good products and I have bought several things from them over the years, but they also have a lot of junk like this machine too. So you have to watch what you buy.

    4running,

    Research what you buy and if you don't have a local dealer (that you feel you can trust) buy from someone on this board, I don't think anyone on here will steer you wrong.


  3. Does PA make a 350 psi switch?

    Do they sell spring kits for the switch assembly? If I can replace the spring, I am good with this switch, if not then I have more trash on my hands.

    Yes they do make a 350psi switch (may not be exactly 350psi as I don't have any catalogs here at the house but I know they have one close to that)

    You may be able to go to a industrial supply house and see if they have any springs of a similar size that would be a little stiffer. If it is too long you can cut it down.

    There are higher psi rated switches though. You probably need one rated at about 500- 600 psi.


  4. For $108,000 I will fly to you. Negotiate a brand new truck at the dealership. Have delivered a 10 gpm dual gun setup with all the goodies on a custom trailer. Train you in sales for three weeks. Have everything from logos to postcards designed and printed, do a $10,000 marketing campaign and stay on as your employee/salesman for two months.

    What in God's name were they offering at that price?

    Me too for that price. There is another company call The Wash Guys (Truck Wash Guys, Car Wash Guys, etc.) They are about the same way. Not sure on their prices, but unless they come with quite a few profitable customers; I don't think a franchise would be the way to go with a pressure cleaning business.


  5. I have had this happen one time in 7 years of running General Pumps, but it was my fault. I over tightened the sight glass on the back of the pump and it fell out while we were doing some fleet washing. When most of the oil ran out it threw the rod too. Rookie mistake, I did this in my first year (7 years ago).

    I sell all brands of pw pumps, but General is my favorite. They are affordable to rebuild and parts are easy to find and I have always gotten good service out of them. They are also (imo) the easiest to rebuild or repair.


  6. Well, I have completed seven of them. I took Cooper's advice and used about 225 deg water at an angle and it worked perfectly except where there was body work and repainting done. I really had to be careful. In sensative area's I would heat the lettering up nice and hot with the water and use an angled razor blade scraper (keeping fresh blades) and it would come off with extreme ease with 0 damage including the reflective letters.

    Next I would spray the glue down with a chemical I found at A1 Hydro here in NY called CR2 Tar Kleen, let dwell for 15 min and rinse off with hot water. It was absolutely incredible. Did not have to rub once. It was well worth the price for the 5 gal pail.

    I am trying to post pics but keeps saying Kb's are to large and cannot figure out how to change it.

    Glad I could help Tom, I didn't think about a tar remover for the adhesive. Sounds like it worked better than the rubbing alcohol would have.


  7. I think around 200 deg. I would prob. heat them up pretty good before you start trying to knock them off. I used about 2500 psi and would get at an angle so as to get the pressure behind the sticker. I sold one of my vans this summer and this is how I got them off. They had been on there for about 5 years. After I got them all off, I soaked them down (one word at a time) with rubbing alcohol. I let them soak for a few minutes (while one word was soaking i wet another) then would soak my rag down and scrub the first set until glue was gone. After done I washed the van.

    Some of these other ways may be better ( I have only done this on the van I sold), but this worked pretty good.


  8. I did this awhile back. I do not run the skid generator anymore as it would not get enough power when using full pressure. I just run my other generator and plug the burner into it.

    I get 3000 psi with 1/2" hose. Changing pulley size is asking for trouble. .

    Pulley size will depend on the rpm his present pump is turning. My Hydrotek had a 1210 rpm cat on it and i replaced it with a 1750 rpm General TSF 2021, so I had to change the pulley size for the extra speed the pump needed to get the full flow. Just make sure you call Tuff (if you don't have this info in the manual that came with it) and find out what the factory pulley sizes are and what rpm the engine is turning; then calculate the pulley ratio and adjust if needed with a different size pulley. You don't want to turn the pump more rpms than it is rated for.Also, my Honda 24 hp on my Hydrotek came from the factory set at 2800 rpm, so I wasn't getting a full 24hp out of it. I reset the rpm to 3400 to get more power to run the bigger pump and had to get a different pump pulley to get 8gpm out of the pump ( it is rated at 8.5 gpm and 3600 psi)

    Not trying to complicate the matter, but these are things you need to check on before changing to a different pump.


  9. I am thinking of upgrading to a 8 gpm pump on a 20 hp motor. My Q is do I need to upgrade anything else besides the unloader? Do I need to go to bigger hose? Any other suggestions?

    You will only be able to get approx. 2500psi with the 20hp motor and 8 gpm. I would order a little larger pulley, if you need the 3500psi you will only be able to get 6.5 gpm, if you need 3000psi you will be able to get 7.5 gpm. 2500psi is enough for most jobs (especially residential) but if you use a surface cleaner a lot, you will like having the 3500psi better. Also if you go the 2500psi route make sure to order the right tips.


  10. I had this happen recently. My belt guard doesn't give me a good view of the belts and I peeked in and the belt looked fine but after testing all the other stuff I pulled the cover off. The belt was broken but it was sitting in such a way that it looked fine through the inspection port. I felt like an idiot since I spent about an hour testing everything else. Doh!

    Check the belt good before trying to rewire the burner cord to be plugged in. The belt could be in bad shape and just slipping. Also I had the generator on my Hydrotek go out after about 1500 hrs. I did not repair it though because I went to a General TSF 2021 pump at the same time and the engine wasn't big enough (Honda 24 hp) to run the bigger pump and the generator. I rewired it with a plug and run it off of a 2500 watt gas generator.


  11. The air cleaner and oil are the most important things to keep changed. Some dirt gets past even the best air cleaners. The longer it is in there the more wear it causes. I use Mobil 1 synthetic and change it and the air filter every 100 hrs. I only change the oil filter every other oil change though. Seems to work, I have been told that most small engines usually only last approx. 3000 hrs. and I have a little over 6000 on my 14hp Kohler. I have also had very good luck with Hondas.


  12. Whoa, $$$. Call Don Phelps "The Roof Guru"? I bought my 20hp 3500psi 5.6gpm with stainless steel heater for alot less than that.

    ISYHTRAH

    That is a little high for that size pw, but they are prob. a little flexible in that price. I sell my machines with free labor for the life of the machine as long as they are a soap customer they only pay for parts after the warranty is gone. Now someone may be able to get a little (I am not much higher than what can be ordered from out of state) better price ordering from someone off somewhere else, but I am going to charge $55/ hour labor to fix it when it tears up. I can sell cheaper if I sell it somewhere 2 or 3 states away because I will not be repairing it more than likely, and I can have it drop shipped and never touch it.

    Sometimes, especially when you are new; it is good to get a good relationship with you local dealer (unless he is just outrageous on price--some are). He can help you out in a pinch. You do have to watch some dealers, some are like used car salesmen they just want the sell and will tell you anything. I built my pw business on doing a good job, have a resonable price, and being honest. I have a very good rep. around my area with Cooper Pressure Wash and I am trying to build Big Orange Supply on the same principles ( We just bought the bus. from the previous owner in March '06).

    Give me a call Tom, if you don't have a trailer already Hydrotek has a sale on their trailer rigs right now. Check out the "just add water" special on their website -- http://www.hydroteksystems.com/natlspecial/justaddwater.htm

    I can also quote you a price on a Pressure Pro unit or Karcher unit.

    p.s. you dealer prob. had to pay shipping on the unit which you will have to figure in the price if you find one somewhere else.

    I am not at the office but I think the Hydrotek sale is free shipping also, but don't hold me to that. The sale price is good until Nov. 30, 2006


  13. Huh? Once you set the flow type unloader, at whatever your machine is rated for, that's where it stays (or should stay). The only way it is bypassing back to the tank is if the pressure goes above the setting level. The water is either in or out of bypass, but not both (unless you're having unloader problems).

    Are you sure you're not thinking of a pressure type unloader? Those you can adjust pressure (and flow).

    With a flow unloader you can put a small nozzle (say #5 if it calls for a #6) in it and set your pressure. It will bypass extra water back to the tank (if plumbed that way), then when you put your regular tip back in you will still have the same pressure but will have full flow out of the gun. That is how Hydrotek sets their machines up for steam, the steam nozzle is usually one full size smaller than what the machine calls for so there is less flow through the burner and the water gets hotter. If your flow unloader is adjusted right it calls for approximately 5% of the flow to be in bypass anyway. If you adjust the knob on a pressure unloader you are turning down the flow out of the gun and the pressure, but if you put a smaller tip in the pressure will go right back up and some of the flow will still be bypassing. If you have a flow unloader and you set the pressure at 2000 psi (with a smaller tip) then whatever tip you put in it, it will not go above 2000 psi


  14. Dave i definately agree with your philosophy. You must maintain your equipment. I guess it comes down to just making a commonsense decision. NOT as easy as it seems. Since getting more involved with pressure washing all I see and hear about is GPM. Dealers are telling me you do not need as much GPM when it is a hot machine. I am having a hard time beleiving this though. I could be wrong. I'm still learning this business.

    Well I am a dealer and have had a pressure cleaning bus. for over 6 years and the more GPM the better. You just need to have a flow unloader on it so you can set the pressure at say 3500 (example) and the rest of the water will bypass back into the tank in case you have water supply problems (customers water won't keep up). I am building a 11 gpm unit for my rig (if I ever get time to work on it anyway).

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