Jim Gamble
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Posts posted by Jim Gamble
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Well to start, Im going to think that we are talking about trucks that are below 14,500 lbs. There is NO WAY that you passed a smog check, unless you know a smog person and he let you by when he shouldnt! Dosent matter what you bought, If the selling dealer didnt offer it as a extra from the FACTORY it isnt legal in calif. We were able to put chips in that used to be sold that stated they were legal in all 50 states. Not anymore, calif dosent allow them. You could go anywhere and add 5 inch exhaust and it was ok, not anymore. Calif says no. You could go and add jake brakes, which I think is ok, but calif says no more. Again if it wasnt a factory option it isnt allowed period. You stated that, "one of the reasons why our parts were so expensive was because they meet all Ca smog reg for the next 10 or so years" First stop trying to make yourself so big and bad about how much money you spent, we couldnt care less. Second, I sure hope that you got that in writing from whoever you bought the parts from as they now owe you a refund, but I dont think you are going to get it. Alot of thing that we sold were legal at on point in calif, but that has changed, there not legal anymore.Now going with they are above 14500lb trucks. I have a 2001 truck that is completlely stock, bought by me new in CA. Guess what, I have to add a PM filter to it soon as it wont pass new CA smog laws. Once I do that it buys me a couple of years, and then, guess what, It wont pass CA smog laws again. Unless I change the motor out to a 2010 model year engine or newer. So I have to spend apx. on this truck $8000 for a PM filter then what 15,000 on a new motor, but wait, I will also have to buy wiring harness and computer crap to even be able to put it in. I also have a 2007 truck that again I bought new in CA. Guess what, I have to install a PM filter to it in 2014, or it wont pass CA smog laws, For that truck IM told it will be over 12,000 for that filter. CA has screwed us all big time, we cant go back to the dealers as they were made to pass smog then not now. not fair to us, you, or anybody, I agree that if CA wants new smog laws, fine , add new laws, but we should be grand fathered in with what was legal before the new law. So if they want new laws, they start with that date and go forward with that year on, not go back. And now being a smart ass and doing what I told you , you shouldnt do, They first truck cost me 90,000 and the second truck cost me almost 200,000. I havent even got to my other trucks and what they cost me. It dosent really matter what you paid, CA says cant have it anymore, you have to change it, they dont care what it costs or dosent cost, or whoever it might put out of business as they cant afford to do it.
Now to get to your Aux engines, Yes there are some loop holes to buy you some time, depending on what you have right now, how old they are depends on what loop holes you are able to use now. Depending on that you can use them for so many hours but it is a total number of hours per year not location. I forget right at this moment but it can be as low as 100 hours per year that you can run it , if it is a tier 0, as you move up in tiers, it goes up a bit for each one. If it is mounted on a trailer or if it is a second engine mounted on a truck to run other equipment, You still have to reg. it with Sacramento and show proof that all mods have been changed to pass smog. Once you do this and only when you do this they will give you a green sticker to mount on the trailer and or truck to show it is ok. If you get caught and you will, you can be givin a ticket and fined big time. Again CA is screwing everybody.
And dont think that if you reg it in another state that will get you by. It wont, If that truck or equipment is in CA, it has to pass all smog laws to be here and operate. And if you get pulled over in your 14500lb truck and your stuff isnt smog legal at that time, you will be givin a ticket, and no you wont be able to drive it away either. It will be towed either to a repair shop or out of state. You will not be able to just continue doing what you want. Alot of companys have left CA and will not come into CA anymore because of all of this.
Lastly, I want to be the fly on the wall, when you get stopped and try to tell the cop and or the dmv that so in so told me it was ok. Not going to happen, they will laugh in your face and ask you one thing! Do you have it in writting? Thats right your answer will be NO. Bottom line , your trucks, your equipment engines will have to be up to CA smog laws for that model year period. Or it wont be able to use in CA.
Sounds to me that you are having issues with your trucks and / or your mechanic shop is not well informed about the loop wholes in the laws. To bad.
You need to go to CA. GOV to look at the pending exceptions. Yes it is long and boring and will take a few hours to find, but they are there. All of my performance products have been approved or in pending status. These pending status can last up to 10 years from going through the CA courts. By that time, I will be buying a new fleet of dodges. By the way, Jake brakes have NOTHING to do with smog according to CA Smog. Most higher priced ones are approved for smog.
By the way, I resent your thought of me buying my way out. I went to two different smog places for our trucks. Reason, had a sale. ALL passed except one. Our 1998 12 valve which is the baby of our fleet. Has only 450 hp. Our injector pump had to be adjusted because at idle, when they floor the motor, Black smoke was seen for longer then 3 seconds. I think it was for 5 seconds. We had to detune the pump from 500 hp to 440-450.Replace the catalytic converter to a more efficient one that was approved for replacement for our model truck and now the black smoke is only visible for just under 2 seconds.
May I suggest that you go to a reputable performance shop for Diesel's.
Dodge Cummings are the easiest to modify to Ca Smog specs since most are complaint without any or limited smog equipment. Unlike the Fords or the Chevy's/ GMC or Isuzu.
Again, I am sorry that you are having all of this trouble with your diesels. You really need to get in touch with someone who knows how to upgrade your equipment without violating any smog laws.
If you still feel strongly about how I did pass and why you can not, maybe you should fly up here and I will show you. You could drive with me to an approved Diesel SMOG station, oh pick any station up here in California, for me to smog it again, you pick up all costs, including my time of 2 hours and a nice sit down lunch, Chilli's or TGI Fridays will do. Nothing to expensive.
If you agree to this, I will be happy to entertain you by passing again.
I think that would be a small price to pay for the knowledge that is eluding you for the moment.
Jim Gamble
Crystal Cleaning Company LLC
Antioch, California 94509-6911
510-612-0437
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Jim,Out of curiousity how do you get a guarantee that you will meet any future Smog Reg? Thats interesting to me as things change yearly. Almost sounds like you are flashing cash to someone. Otherwise I would think that you are just kidding about being able to meet requirements for the next 10 years.
On another note, good luck with the Jake brakes. They are not allowed in allot of towns anymore. Signs are posted quite often noting that no Jake brakes are allowed. Did you get something saying you can drive them anyhow or are they just not that worried about noise in CA?
Ya your right, i am kidding about the 10 year mark. But I do not think it's to off since it has been so many years since Cali has done anything to Diesel's for smog.
Your other concern is the Jake Brakes. You are CORRECT in saying that Jake brakes are not allowed in some areas of a city. Though the more expensive ones take this into consideration to " Muffle" the noise, it is still louder then trucks that do not have them. For example, all 2007 or newer Dodge diesel trucks have Jake Brakes standard on them. They have came alone way from 10 years ago.
However, I do have the capabilities to turning the Jake brake system off at the stick shift with a flick of a button.
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Our trucks are upgraded from suspension to 5 inch SS exhaust to the HP to the 50lbs Boost of the Turbos to the Jake brakes to even the new larger braking system. Frame has been " Computer Stressed tested " and re enforced where as needed. All of our trucks are over 450 HP with 673 LBS of torque ( Dyno tested ). One has almost 600 HP. The trucks have double clutches installed as well as the new 6 speed tranys. We spent over 10k per truck for the upgrades.Hope it was worth it. As all the new carb, and smog laws here in Calif. Not sure if you are talking pick up, if you are they wont pass the new smog laws, You cant do anything or add anything that the dealer didn't offer as a up grade when new. You will fail and have to remove everything you added. If you are talking big trucks over 14500 lbs chassi, you are going to have problems there as well, and depending on year you will have to add PM filters to some and others already need 2010 model year engines put into them. California is looking to screw everybody that they can. If you need the web address to see all the carb info on bigger trucks I can send it to you. Also I forgot to say that aux engines have a major clean up in affect also. You cant just build what you want and run it like you could before. All aux engines above 40 hp have to be tier 3 as of now and i forget the date will have to be tier 4. You must also register the engines and get a green stick to place one the equipment to be legal, or face fines.
Ed, you are sooooo right about the smog. However, we did past. We also was concern about the high performance products and only bought performance upgrades that meet strict CA diesel Smog laws.
As far as our diesels on our rigs, we was in contact with the State. It is not cut and dry as one may think. There are plenty of " Loop Holes" in the system. One being a Diesel Mobile Unit permanently built on a trailer, not stationary for more then 7 days or X amount of hours in a single location. However, I still called. Confirmed... got name of supervisor/ manager and operator number with the direct telephone line.
I want you to know, that anyone who knows me, understands I do my research before I buy or build.
Again, Thanks for the information. Allot of users may not know or understand what it is to be a successful business in California.
Again, good post !!!
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Our trucks are upgraded from suspension to 5 inch SS exhaust to the HP to the 50lbs Boost of the Turbos to the Jake brakes to even the new larger braking system. Frame has been " Computer Stressed tested " and re enforced where as needed. All of our trucks are over 450 HP with 673 LBS of torque ( Dyno tested ). One has almost 600 HP. The trucks have double clutches installed as well as the new 6 speed tranys. We spent over 10k per truck for the upgrades.Hope it was worth it. As all the new carb, and smog laws here in Calif. Not sure if you are talking pick up, if you are they wont pass the new smog laws, You cant do anything or add anything that the dealer didnt offer as a up grade when new. You will fail and have to remove everything you added. If you are talking big trucks over 14500 lbs chassi, you are going to have problems there aswell, and depending on year you will have to add PM filters to some and others already need 2010 model year engines put into them. California is looking to screw everybody that they can. If you need the web address to see all the carb info on bigger trucks I can send it to you. Also I forgot to say that aux engines have a major clean up in affect also. You cant just build what you want and run it like you could before. All aux engines above 40 hp have to be tier 3 as of now and i forget the date will have to be tier 4. You must also regester the engines and get a green stick to place one the equipment to be legal, or face fines.
We have passed all of the Smog requirements for our trucks in Jan. 2011. One of the reasons why our parts were so expensive was because they all meet Ca smog reg for the next 10 or so years.
I did check with that BEFORE purchasing any part, no matter how good the price was. If you can't use it, it is worthless.
We are looking forward to our newest drivable rig. Tonight is the test. I may post some photos..... I will may also have to re-think about posting photo's of the unit since .....
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NO NO NO, not my trucks. Copyed what Jim had wrote about his trucks. And was letting him know if he has really done all this to his trucks, how screwed he is. Forgot the quotesYour right about the new smog laws. As of January, we did past all smog tests and requirements. The 12 valve had to be de tuned to 350 or so HP. The other trucks passed. One of the reason why it was so expensive to up grade is because no " Black smog" can be seen when they floor the throttle after 3 seconds. Out 12 valve needed a double catalytic converter plus de-tune it just a bit. Bummer. All upgrades was bought only after the State approved them on there CA.Gov approved smog options list.This is another reason why we waited so long to upgrade the trucks. As many know our newer trucks cannot fit in some garages. Thats why we keep the 1999 & 98 black Dodges. Not only are they paid for, not only do they have low mileage ( 58,000 & 72,000 miles ) but the can fit in any garage that we clean and now, have more HP and Torque then any new truck on the market.Now that we found away to get our equipment from coast to coast....including Hawaii, we are now looking into building our equipment for this expansion. We will have a minimum contract pricing for us to arrive in another state, but so far, it appears not to be a problem.
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Jim, show the after video in the same parking spots. I believe you because I've seen your other videos. It will be impressive to show it after you're done and dry.I've always believed that a SC + 300 degrees could clean oil better (in spite of the short contact time) . It was just the gum that got me involved in this thread because I personally witnessed zero advantage on the gum.
Jim, you know I am in complete awe of your equipment (get your mind out of the gutter :) ). But I'm a practical science guy and I'm trying to justify the added risk and cost vs the cleaning difference. Once you've re-cleaned that garage and calculated how much more you spent than your subcontractor, then there would be enough data to justify the expense of reaching those higher temps. (Chris is still working on a garage you pitched when you were here......they balked at .05 ft last year)
Chris C said the same thing last year. The problem is that I am on time limits with garages and it simple is not that easy to do, being that we reclaim every drop that did not evaporate or is soaked into the concrete. The oil/ heavy metals/ dirt for one spot(s) would create added costs and time. Frankly after putting 16 to 20 hours days, all we are thinking about is completing the job and going home. If I remember right, this job took (5) 15-16 hour days with a crew of 14-17. I just cannot remember the numbers exactly. Sorry. But you get the picture.
Also, if I was to re cleaned a second time the following day, this stain, even with the 200 degree washer, would appear lighter as well. Oil rises up, you reapply detergent, you wash again. If I showed that this area was "Clean", by re cleaning again, this would not be a fair test. One could argue that the area got cleaned twice, and so therefore, of course, the area will be cleaner. See my point?
In this video, I was not there when we re-cleaned the areas. I was on another job-site. When I came back, I was going to retake the video, but the concrete was wet. As you know Tony with some on these BBS ( NOT saying you) , I did not want anyone to say, ya it looks better because the area in question is wet. But you can see from our video's I try to get the cement completely dry before taken such a video or photo. I do not prefer photos where the cement is wet or soaked and then a after photo is taken. As you may know, this would show the cleaning job to appear to be " Cleaner" then what it would look if the cement was completely dry.
The garage was open within the hour of us cleaning that section and I was glad, because in our contract, if we do not make the deadline, we pay our client up to 10% of the contract for lost revenue as a result from our delays. I did come back for the walk thru and thought that I may be able to take another video, but the garage was packed. We clean this garage every 3 years or so. It gets really oily. Every time it goes out to bid, we are the highest bid by at least 30 to 38%. The board asks for a detailed bid. Every year they choose us to clean.
Since this garage, our sub now has a 780 or 790,000 BTU Boiler installed to prevent this from happening. Again, can't remember on the exact size. For this reason, his rig no longer cleans areas that require cleaning temps above 250 degrees.
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Here is the video. I am unable to embed the video as Nigel describes above. so here is the link
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<iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/SGV4gwtlClc" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen></iframe>
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Here is the video of 200 VS 300 degrees using the same GPM / Pressure and same surface cleaners
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You and I know a contractor who never uses hot water on concrete because the chems do all the work before the SC even gets there. I can't help but wonder how much of Jim's high quality work is more the result of a little higher impact (4000 vs 3000-3500) combined with his chem?We need some experiments to settle this.
Hi Tony. Glad to see you. Hope everything is well.
Tony, you make some good points. It is hard to say in words what we do.
I do now this. I have submitted Videos of my Sub using 4,000 PSI @ 200 degrees 580,000 BTU boiler vs our 4,000 PSI 300+ Degrees at 1.1 million BTU's. Though I believe that the chemical does do a great deal of working to the finish product, I believe after seeing our crew apply the detergent in the same manor, our contractor cleaned the row using 0 degree tips as we did ( Turbos was not used for this experiment), this shows how higher temperatures can possibly penetrate the oil thus lifting and removing the oil and most stains from the concrete.
I am not a scientist, but I did ask a Student from Stanford to ask her Physics Professor if 300 degrees would be " More Effective" in removing oil from concrete when applied as we described. I explained that we needed to know this before we decided to build our equipment. I wanted to know if the extra effort and costs would be beneficial in removing oil from concrete.
based on his input, we went ahead and built it. We also had 2 Hydraulic Engineers help design the Hydraulics. One from Stanford, the other from England. I forgot the name of his University.
The point here is that we did not assume anything. We asked professors and other individuals who had more knowledge then the average professional on how to achieve oil removal.
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3 Years ago when I mentioned EPA and the CWA on past posts on ***, Ron, you never came across as a Green Movement sorta of guy in any of those replies....WOW. Glad to see it.
I wasn't going to reply to this thread.
Frankly I am just getting tired of this and in the future, I will try not to waste my energy. I have to plan our trip to the Orient with the family and our friends.
Nigel I have a respect for you and Jim, Jim uses fire hoses and I also once used them. Jim has talked with me about this early on when he was drilling me about my precedures. I adopted the fire hose from New contructions clean ups. Now that I understand the value of water savings and contaminants I realize the increase of speed by using fire hoses is not worth the amount of water I'm poluting to complete a job even if its slower. ( the buildings I do cannot have fire equipment tampering) Safety is just another reason.!!
Ron, I have been cleaning Parking Structures years longer then you or Scott. Your own words.
In my 21 years experience, we first tried rinsing with the wands. 3 at 8 GPM. Because we clean so deep and the substance is so much, it would take 3 guys over an hour to rinse 1/4 of the floor to our standards. Thats walls, columns, railings, corners, cracks, removal of detergent until no subs are present from pressurized water hitting the area where the oil stain was, etc. ( This is to prevent slippage, Heavy metals, dirt and the attraction of future oil to the residue of the soap).
Using a fire hose takes approximately 20 minutes and does a far better rinsing job because the volume of water will emulsify larger, heavier particles then a thin spray would.
So lets do the math....
(3) washers @ 8 GPM = 24* GPM X 50 minutes= 1,200 gallons. Fire hose at < 80 psi is approx 70 GPM X 20= 1400 GPM. So by washing with a fire hose, it is actually saving time, not to mention all of that fuel ( Approx $50 with another 10% for wear & tear costs) and air pollution. ( All for what... 200 gallons of water? People with Swimming pools waste more than that in energy costs, maintenance and evaporation / splashing etc. (If wasted water is a big concern, may I suggest that those individuals take a bath to cool down).
*If you have smaller GPM Pressure washer, the time will increase to rinse properly to our standards, thus the end result would be about the same if not more.
The reason why most frown on this is because they do not have the filtering capabilities of handling so much water all at once. We do. As far as it being illegal to tap into a fire hydrant to supply water, that is what permits are for. We NEVER tap into the fire "sprinkler" system. Enough said about the water issue and I will not respond further on this issue since it will only create drama.
2. We have 4,000 LBS ride on vacuum systems as well, powder by water cooled Kubota 4 cylinder Turbo Diesels. The build costs was the price of some homes. We did plan on sharing / showing our units on these BBS just like we started to with building our 40 GPM Filtration Units. But a " VERY" select few unfortunately created so many problems and drama, that I decided to stop posting on that as well.
This is really a shame. So many contractors would of been able to build their own units on a smaller scale for .40 or less on the dollar. Taking all of our research and development costs, using that information, and build themselves a unit without the learning curve. This really hurt the industry in my opinion. If someone instructed me with the knowledge I have today, I would of been retired at the age of 39 instead of being semi retired at 47.
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I agree with you Ed, if you are using a standard washer with a self propelled surface cleaner.In our situation, when using a 0 degree, we can clean faster then the normal water propelled surface cleaning units using a 25 degree nozzle.
We are now cleaning ( EVERY SQUARE INCH ) of a 350,000 sq ft garage, walls, stairways etc with FULL reclamation and Full rinse down, in 1 long day. All while using a 0 degree tips.
On extreme dirty garages, it will take us an extra day for floor, walls and stairs. Add ceiling / hand washing of pipes add another day. Each day about 12-14 hours.
Again, we use over 275 degrees. 210 degrees simple does not clean as well when it comes to oil removal. The hotter the water, the better. In some cases we use up to 325 degrees for those tuff deep oil stains. Again, all with 0 degree nozzles at over 3,500 RPMs. Our Turbo Twisters are modified for us to reach these spec's.
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Using a 0 deg tip just makes you walk / clean slower. With that you are using a pin point to try to clean. Look at it like this, If you are cleaning flat work with a Lance would you use a 0 deg tip? Why not, O thats right it would take you longer to clean with that tip. Putting a 0 deg tip on a surface cleaner then adjusting the angle to spin faster, you still are trying to use a pin point to clean, You will never get it clean in a reasonable time. Leave it at 15 deg and use a 15deg tipI agree with you Ed, if you are using a standard washer with a self propelled surface cleaner.
In our situation, when using a 0 degree, we can clean faster then the normal water propelled surface cleaning units using a 25 degree nozzle.
We are now cleaning ( EVERY SQUARE INCH ) of a 350,000 sq ft garage, walls, stairways etc with FULL reclamation and Full rinse down, in 1 long day. All while using a 0 degree tips.
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Jim I would just use a prevost bus, this way you could be comfortable when crews are cleaning. LOLYou know, I did think about a used one last year at the RV Show..... a GREAT tax write off according to my CPA. My Wife however, said ..... NO :lgtear:. LOL
You should get one Ron. :lghohoho: You can afford it.
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How about a bathroom?Garages always are next to a building that has a Bathroom. Some Garages have bathrooms in them as well. We always make arrangements in our contracts to have access to these facilities.
Good thought !
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I understand your desire to over build your trailer, but what you are describing is going to weigh close to 12,000 lbs. Add in the interior, and it will be even heavier. You might want to rethink your specs, or what kind of truck tows it.As you may already now Scott, our diesels have been upgraded. I think I wrote a thread on it last year.
In case I did not post it here on TGS, this is what we did so far....
Our trucks are upgraded from suspension to 5 inch SS exhaust to the HP to the 50lbs Boost of the Turbos to the Jake brakes to even the new larger braking system. Frame has been " Computer Stressed tested " and re enforced where as needed. All of our trucks are over 450 HP with 673 LBS of torque ( Dyno tested ). One has almost 600 HP. The trucks have double clutches installed as well as the new 6 speed tranys. We spent over 10k per truck for the upgrades.
We are however looking at (2) Semi with trailers to haul our current trailers and trucks up and down the coast. Again, ONLY looking. Not sure to buy or to contract out. MAY contract out.
This way our crews can fly to the location, thus not get so tired from all of the driving from a city to the next. They will be fresh and ready to go with the 20 hr per day cleanings. Plus our equipment will not have so many miles on them as well.
You know with me, I must justify the expense before I buy. AGAIN THIS IS ONLY ON THE DRAWING BOARDS and will NOT happen any time soon.
This trailer design, thanks to computer engineering, will not weigh in at 12k, but allot less.
Thanks for your input Scott.
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Any realistic features anyone think would be cool to include into this build?
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Why don't you just buy one haulmark, renegade makes some real nice totor homes and trailers. They are purpose built for racing, so just order one that is gutted so you can put your equipment in it. http://www.renegadedirect.com/index.htmlThere is another manufacture on the West Coast as well. We are looking into this as well. However, from our experience, we find it is usually cheaper to custom build our trailers. With this economy being what it is, that may of changed.
Thanks for the recommendation !
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That would be a heavy trailer Jim, putting the rubber ride axles on there too? What about the color, Crystal Cleaning Company "Yellow"You know It.
From our experience in building our trailers from scratch, we find that the rubber ride axles with the oil bath and the forward movement over-sized self adjusting brakes feature provides the best handling and performance of any axle on the market.
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I am wondering if any guys out there have information where to buy accessories for the Toy Hauler industry.
I also would like anyones thoughts on the designing and / or add-ons for this type of trailer.
We are thinking on BUILDING a 20,000 lbs GVW "TOY" type trailer. It will have 8 inch I beam frame with 4 inch " C " channel cross members every 10 inches. The (2) Steel Ramp Door entries, one on the side the other in the back, will have a 10,000 lbs rating and will be powered up and down with a flick of a switch. All uprights will be powder coated to prevent rust. No wood / Plywood will be used. Flooring will be in Diamond Plate 1/4 inch steel with 7,000 lbs SS "D" rings inset into the flooring every 2 feet to hold equipment.
The length will be at least 24 ft. long not counting the goose neck and a inside height of 9 ft with a lowered suspension. The tires will be the 16 PLY Steel Belted. Rims will be 1/2 inch thick steel rims powder coated. Wheel size will be the standard 17.5 inch rims. The unit will have insulation and a 10,000 watt generator with sleeping quarters.
We currently have 2 motorized units for Garage Cleaning that are very heavy and may build another one this year. Each unit is about the size of a sub compact car. This trailer will house those units to and from the job site. The Living quarters will be for sleeping/ resting on the site. We are thinking of a small buffet style kitchen, though it is unlikely.
Any thoughts ?
Jim Gamble
Crystal Cleaning Company LLC
Serving California, Oregon and Washington
510-612-0437
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Dan Cosgrove sold his Turbo Twister http://amclean.com/Turbotwister.html he hardly every used last year for a song and a dance. He also had a Turbo attachment for the tips which I thought was interesting. Turbo tips seem to be a logical choice to clean the fastet with a surface machine that is belt driven. Dan sold that Turbo twister last year for $1500 and it looked new. Somebody got a steal on that and it wasn't me.Yes.... It was a deal !!!!
I see Dan regularly. Another Great Guy. We always have a chuckle from the politics. Hey, I think he owes me Lunch..LOL.
Dan's unit was " Brand New". Dan just could not use this unit for his type of cleaning. We did considered buying it. The price was a great price, however, the unit was not designed for our application and would costs us up to $2,200 dollars to make it so. Dan's unit has the Standard 6.5 HP motor.
Dan's unit was shipped to John Ellis of whom he stated to me that he loves the 36" path and the speed of which he can run. John and Al Patterson are Great guys whom I respect and always tell it as they see it.
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This sound good in theory but with the extra weight of the additional arms I would venture to put the two you suggested straight down to remain at 15 degs and increase the angle on the other two arms.Smaller four arm SC's are probably a delight, but most that have 4 arm surface cleaners have big decks , the arc length between nozzles is probably close to a smaller surface cleaner with less arms, so they find that the forward speed is still slow.
I agree
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Pic of surface cleaning. No Chemsame pw machine via 200 ft 1/2" hose
0 deg nozzles (0003.0) in a 20" Whirl-A-Way 3 arm 8 gpm @ 190F pump head reading 3600 psi
vs
15 deg nozzles (1503.0) in a 30" Mosmatic 3 arm 8 gpm @ 190F pump head reading 3300 psi
Good Info Nigel.
In cleaning Parking Garages for the past 21 years, we also have found that 0 degree nozzles work best. http://garagecleaning.net/Comparison.aspx
Jim Gamble
Crystal Cleaning Company LLC
San Francisco Bay Area
510-612-0437
We Are THINKING about building a Toy Hauler for our larger equipment
in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
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Rob,
Here in California, DODGE Trucks equipped with Cummings Diesels, New for 2011, come standard with Jake Brakes and are legal. You cannot order them without the Jake Brake. There is an off switch for residential noise. You have the option to use them or turn them off.