R L S

I have worked with Carolinaprowash and had the chance to use thier coress. Beats the hell out of my flimsy, floppy yellow wand. My next extension is a coress. They are also coming out with a wand that extends from 2 feet to 6 feet. Think of the areas you could use that! Richard

I am the technician, marketer, salesman, equipment repairman, recievables collector and phone answerer did I miss one? I do it all and at times it can get pretty hectic here LOL!

Have any of you guys used Eniviro-Specs product called Premier.It says it will remove mildew and with no sodium hypochlorite. If any one has used it is it any good? Any info would be great. I called e-spec and the sales person knew sqaut about this chem. Thanks alot for any feed back. RLS

Sanford, North Carolina

I worked for a p.w company through high school. Graduated went to collge in Northern California while I worked as a cowhand on several differant ranches. After college I worked for the Forest Service on a Hotshot crew based out of Quincy, CA. Traveled the country fighting fires for 3 years then moved to North Carolina and started washing.

Run a 10 gauge wire from your positive battery post to a 30amp inline fuse, mount the inline fuse on your fender well (inside the engine compartment) then continue the wire all the way back to your wire harness on the back of the truck. When you run the wire make sure you avoid high heat areas such as exhaust manifolds and exhaust pipes. If you can find some wires running from the engine compartment to the rear you can secure your 10gauge wire to that using zip ties. Zip tie the wire to keep it out of the way and tight so it doesnt vibrate a hole through the insulation when you drive. You can tie it to the frame as well. Make sure you run it accordingly so that it doesnt interfere with your spare tire if you need to get it out. If you cant avoid a high heat areas wrap the wire with exhaust tape. You can wrap a few wraps of electrical tape around the wire in areas you are concerned about vibrating wear. When you get to the trailer harness in the rear of the truck put an appropiate wire end on it, say a male end and then you put a female end on the 10 gauge wire running from the positive battery post on your trailer battery. That way when you hook up your trailer lights you simply plug in the battery charging wire. Be sure to run a ground from your negative battery post on the trailer battery to the trailer frame. If you didn't know,undo the battery clamps and fit the stripped end of the 10 gauge wire in between the clamps of the battery and the terminal posts. Auto Zone or any car place will have all you need. I hope this helps and is understandable, Call me if you have problems Richard 919-478-1979 or email at topnotchpw@yahoo.com

I lurk most of the time and I have posted a few times. I am abig listener when it comes to learning. God gave me two ears(two eyes) and one mouth. I enjoy the site very much. I have read alot of the old posts and have found good info. If I need a question answered I wont hesitate to post. Once again this is a great source of info I really enjoy it.

Aplus, I asked to talk to the tech. dept. but the lady I was dealing with said no one was there and that she was telling me all things the tech. dept would say any way. All she was doing was reading me things from the same catalog I was looking at. I figured I'd try here for some input from folks that may have used it before. RLS

I started working for a company in So Cal that washed all the Bank of Americas in So Cal or at least most of them. I worked for them all though high school. After I graduated I went to college got a degree in forestry. Then I fought forest fires with Forest Service on a Hotshot crew out of Nor Cal. did that for 3 years, I was gone 6 months out of the year fighting fires all across the country and only being home maybe 3 weeks out of a 6 month fire season. Yeah I also had 6 months off to do whatever but I figured if I wanted to have a family and raise my kids the way I wanted to I better find a job that let me be around a little more. So I bought some equipment from my former employer, put my trailer together and here I am 1 year later going all out, full time and also missing at times the excitment of my former work and the pay. The equpiment I started with was a Hotsy unit 5gpm and 3000psi great unit wouldnt buy any other. The most important thing about starting out is eduaction, research and more research. Residential was a new ball game for me and I studied my butt off to learn all I could about it and now I it is most of my business and doing well. Advice for newcomers, dont scrimp on equipment and educate yourself as much as possible. RLS

Professionalissm, This may not be a defintion but here we go. Professionalism is being educated in every aspect of the work you do, constantly updating your methods of washing, customer service, bidding and invoicing. Professionalism is striving to make your business better for the customers benefit. Professionalism is shown in the uniform you and your crew wears, the way you behave on the job, the way you talk to people, the way your rig looks, your rig does not have to be a high dollar fancy rig just neat, clean and most important functional. Professionalissm is talking politly to your customers as well as educating them (you are the pro). It is the image you portray from the first phone call you recieve from the customer to the follow up after the job is complete and you have been paid. RLS

I have had just a few swivels go bad on me. I just replaced them with in the field type, hose repair swivel ends. Also when I roll my hose onto my reel I always leave slack in the hose when I get to a swivel. That way the swivel is not in a bind when it is on a reel. Like Alan said I also doudt it is the heat causing failure. Another trick I use is to buy hose rated for a higher psi than my unit, I run a 3000psi unit and buy 4000psi hose, its more durable, I hope some of this makes sense. RLS