Doug Black

I would start out with a teak oil like Miniwax teak oil and see how that goes. The darker the stain the more UV protection is offers. With the wood you have, others may disagree, but I don't think a dark or tinted stain is necessarily required. I have a lot of experience cleaning teak and hardwood furniture but little in staining them so sorry I can't be of more help.

High Density Stripper: 80 parts chems, 20 parts filler? I'll just take the free labor...

Regular kind. Brushing your house is great.

Cost/ benefit wise, what you have "resigned" yourself to is really the best way. Hell, a lot of people are even too cheap to get THAT done correctly. Around here, a lot of companies seem to hire off craiglist and offer to train... quickly... Or like you said...use painters. I'm sure some painters know about proper prep but I'm still waiting to meet one.

Now, knowing that the house is much bigger than I thought, (before I thought the other side was another unit) I'd take about three- four hours to power wash and scrub it.

Go strong sodium metasilicate type base with high surfactant, low-low mid sodium hypochlorite and other goodies in range with that recipe. DO NOT use a mortar cleaner. I'd charge extra for the mix but the mix itself will save a lot of power washing time but it's kind of a wash.( I did a very large (long) privacy brick fence in Raleigh this way.) After spraying I went back over with a 21 inch surface cleaner. On the other side I had to use a wand and it took a bit longer, but it also had a good amount of vegetation.

If you had some I would try three different tests...2 on driveway...one at 4 days the one at one day on concrete. The other a little in a container with the bt2000 the other as a control to see how much it eats? Also find out how long it has sat there? Other people report that they put this on for a little while then wash off with a caustic but I can't fathom how it have enough time to work unless it were Stephen King strength? _______________ It is reported that Tide has enzymes and has a partnership with a local business here....

To clean stamped concrete I power wash (upstream), use the surface cleaner, then power wash again to kill any remaining spores.

I use Tide, brush in, pour more Tide, let sit a few days. Pour more Tide, brush in depending. Can usually get away with not pressure washing. This works well for non dirty oil on small stains. I've never tried this on dirty oil; just my own driveway. Never change your oil in your driveway...lol

Maybe they were pressure washing inside open head joint weep holes for brick / masonry ? But I cannot imagine someone doing such a thing. Proper Drainage for Weep Holes The problem with them is usually the bricklayers are sloppy and drop so much mortar down the holes that they are closed and thus pointless.

Degree of difficulty and number of passes required. (I started out gung ho roof cleaning and am now extremely selective. ) I no longer recommend the All-Flo. Might try another air diaphragm pump.

I clicked. Good cause....painful video :D j/k it was okay.

You can thread any nozzle onto the xjet. I think the low flow is a 4030 but don't quote me. They probably have them at northern tool or somewhere near you. I order mine from pressure washer products but any online store has them.

It's more of a long term maintenance thing; manufacturers might be prone to discontinue non-essential or lower demand product lines...

THANK YOU Charlie! Just telling me would have been enough but the pictures are great. I'd say the deck is doing great and would definitely try it. Do you know if Armstrong Clark is affected by the VOC rules here? Also do you ever cut it any with thinner?

Are they saying build deck, pressure treatment, then seal or are they saying build deck and then seal?

That's great and I see the validity of its use on certain applications but your site contains many false statements around pressure washing / power washing.

Here's a nice picture: http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/wood-cleaning-restoration-decks-fences-etc/16205-one-year-old-twp-stain.html

If you could tell me you've got some semi-transparent or transparent up for over two years with no mildew I'd give it a try.

Call Rex at Pressure washer products.

1. No, are there any? 2. TWP 3. If you know something, why not just say it? :D If you know something that would show me unfairly biased against it I sure wouldn't mind...

Traditionally linseed oil has been avoided and only time will tell if the supposed fortified formula will stand THE test of time. Most stains will mildewcides are borate based but linseed is a special case for growth. To really assess the new claims you'd have to know the specific chemical or chemicals they are using. If a company doesn't release them then personally I don't use it. The deck DID look good though!

On yours I would grind down the bad spots, pressure wash, let dry half decent, then follow the instruction on the repair video on this link: http://www.concretenetwork.com/fix-spalled-concrete/fixing-a-spalled-driveway.html Even then though, shear could still result next year, especially since your problem is very topical; this is why I suggest grinding it down a bit first to help prevent that. Alternately, you might try a silicone application, but that would not look too good. For that just pressure wash and apply to seal the pores.

I use a small surface cleaner for the recessed parts after doing it like a regular fence.

Tony, You have a good eye! The first coat was actually in a lighter color, then the decision was made to match the siding which was darker, and that picture was taken after one coating just the sides with the darker...