Doug Black

I think it would look better all the same color and then going white on the rails and attached and column posts or something to that effect. edit: Yes, like Charlie said above. I was thinking you were going to trim the 2X8 if front of the deck boards? That's what I think might look tacky no matter how you did it... Here's a painted deck:

I really only know TWP. Duron carries it, as do many lumber centers. The color on TWP 200 after a year is about half or less that of initial application but I think it looks better that way. Maintenance of TWP is not bad either. TWP doesn't come cheap but sometimes you can cut it a little, depending... There is a recent post on here entitled fence restoration that shows Bakers. That looks good.

I mean you have no idea what their plans are...so you better have an insider to find out... They guaranteed no volume at all and you could be doing roof cleaning and graffiti removal by the square ft 10 sq ft by job grossing 10 dollars a day covering up door locks for a half hour per job when they are done with you....And that's only the start....You have to use their approved chemicals whatever that means...I was just interested in what a school bid would look like....when a contract is written so unilaterally it really becomes a zero sum game for all parties. I taught for a year and reading it just made the idiocy of the system come back to haunt me...

What is this "Baker's Special Blend" you speak of? Very pretty restoration. That fence is a long way and a lot of work from its sad neglected former state...

I think it looks pretty good and very natural. Would be interesting to see how well it hopes up..that stuff is linseed oil with some type of mildewcide.

Only to prep for painters. It can degloss paint/open it up. Yes, it is very compatible with bleach.

You'd have to know someone before you bid on that abomination of a contract.

testing

It has been repeatedly shown that at the "Better Business Bureau" good grades can be bought and paid for. http://bbbroundup.com/LeadStory.html is just one example of many, many many.

I concur with extremeclean. Paint prep is extemely important and don't forget to rinse rinse rinse to get the PH down from your cleaning solution application.

Solid state asbestos poses no danger; the danger is if it is friable, i.e. disturbed, broken, punctured in ways that can allow asbestos be released. Only power wash though, what some are calling soft washing (super gentle) ...never pressure wash. If it is not dirty you can probably just paint over it; there are special paints and it is usually very absorbent. I knew someone that had it and they just painted it and never told anyone. Asbestos is actually an awesome building material in many ways.. You might have some weird New York law about it though. That might be a concern...

I would not start lower than 11 to 13 Horsepower cold water. And hot water is not necessarily an upgrade....

So he is staining new pressure treated wood with no prep already on his own? I'd pass unless he let me fix the damage and do it right.

Listen to Charlie. This is a good beginning.

We will see inflation in these pass-throughs well before it hits the main indexed economy. Every day the dollar is worth less and less and every day other countries try harder and harder not to hold this currency. When your money is worth nothing stores of value become usable tangible commodities. Keep in mind though, that a little less than half the gas price right now is TAX. They tax gas which is already taxed by monetary expansion (If you have five dollars and I print one.... your dollars are now worth less) and we are further taxed by unbridled spending which forces more monetary expansion which means higher gas prices which generates higher taxes on gas and so on ad infinitum...in a vicious loop until it coming crashing down and causes deflation again. Here is a more comprehensive analysis: “No One Saw This Coming”: Understanding Financial Crisis Through Accounting Models

Call Lori at PWP. http://www.pressurewasherproducts.com/ Don't go by the website....

Consider what the pressure will reduce to after nozzles......

Maybe potassium or magnesium chloride?...whichever you can find. Almost all liquids would prbly be windshield washer / anti-freeze type mixes? That's all I can think of. We don't get much snow around here....usually :)

I used cheap oil once and noticed it broke down to this appearance. I switched to valvoline 30; couldn't find any synthetic 30 weight. Seems to be holding up well.

As a stripper? Is this the same product?: http://householdproducts.nlm.nih.gov/cgi-bin/household/brands?tbl=brands&id=19029001 It looks more like a general cleaner. This says it is a cleaner? http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/50-270-general-cleaners/cabot-problem-solver-wood-cleaner-284794.aspx

It is unclear to me why you should bear the cost for this. Were they unable to contact you for a long period of time first?

Best to get the right tank.

the fake one

It's obvious that you think procedurally/scientifically, which gives you a better mentality than much of the industry ( lol) so just read like Big Mike says first and follow his advice. Yes, generally I start with the machine on "low" and then move up. It's not only the type of wood but also the specific deck and condition. This is one reason why I don't use a truck mounted rig. I like to be able to adjust my PW quickly and keep it right next to the work site. I do sometimes reduce flow but that's just a personal preference. Our PW are about the same psi/gpm.

The other check was legit and thus the truck was sold. I think...