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carltoncleans

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Posts posted by carltoncleans

  2. Posted · Report reply

    "I use f-13 on all my gutter jobs. When I first started using it I had to play around with the water/chemical mix. If you mix it too strong it will take the paint right off. I had that happen once in a small area of facia i tested. With a 15-1 mix I have found that a few minutes dwell time and a rag to wipe or brush to scrub, they come 100% clean. The key is not letting it dry on the gutters. Keep it wet and do small sections at a time. That how I get it done. Everyone finds their own methods that work for them."

    This is how I do it and its not included in the standard wash. Its an up sell.

  4. Posted · Report reply

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    [TD=class: kmessage-left]I started last year with a new strategy for dealing with semi trans acrylics (common from HD & Lowes). Acrylic semi trans are easier to stip than solid acrylics with over all short dwell time necessary to break the finish (mix Sodium Hydroxide with Flood or Sherwin William stripper).

    Even though they are easier to strip compared to solid acrylics I've become tired of dealing with stripping railings and sanding fuzzies on the pickets. My new strategy is to use SW Deckscape acrylic on the railing color matched to AC on the deck floor and rail cap. Semi trans and semi solids are best in this process for color matching.

    I strip, sand the floor and rail cap and clean the railing. Stain the floor/rail cap and paint the railing. The results are fabulous with over all short project time, looks good, no fuzzies to deal with and good profit margin. The novice does not complete at this level. So, it's easy to be one of the few service providers to offer this kind of service and switching to oil sales itself. Horizontal surfaces are easier to deal with in the future because they are protected by oil. Many consumers do not even notice the texture difference between the two product types but of course I explain it to them. Acrylic on railings hold up well. See below for a cedar deck stained with AC Cedar Semi Trans and the railing painted with color matched Deckscape acrylic.

    post-6261-137772419118_thumb.jpg

    I do not strip solid acrylics anymore because getting the profit margin my company commands is tough and dealing with chems is not at the top of my list. Solid acrylics are scrub brushed cleaned, feather sanded and a coat of Sherwin Willams Deckscape applied.

    Carlton Cleans

    **We do not use a pressure washer (power washer) in deck restoration. We exclusively use scrub brushing and deck cleaners to prepare the wood for a finish.

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  9. Posted · Report reply

    I know where the stuff is and think the relay is on the opposite side of the burner from the fuel pump. I can use the volt meter but the statements from Hydro teks web site are generic. For example, I'm assuming one side of the burner relay should be hot and one not until the key is turned ect..... but the website does not include that info in the troubleshooting doc. I plan on making some calls tomorrow but I was hoping others were bored with the tv and could share the info. It may be clear when I look at it in the morning with some more trail and error testing with the meter. Taking it to a shop to do work is one thing but diagnostic is another and a waste of time. I need to learn the systems. I'm skilled in the absorption of complex thought. So, conversations with experienced people is all I need.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Also after checking the relay I have to test the thermostate and pressure switch. Can someone please explain that also.

    CHECK HEAT SWITCH/THERMOSTAT FOR CONTINUITY (THERMOSTAT

    MUST BE ADJUSTED TO HIGHEST SETTING BEFORE TESTING –

    REPLACE IF NO CONTINUITY). CHECK PRESSURE SWITCH FOR

    CONTINUITY WHEN MACHINE IS RUNNING AND WITH TRIGGER PULLED

    – REPLACE IF NO CONTINUITY

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I also just remembered the prior owner has the two wires from the pressure senor jumped. I wonder if they have to be connected to the sensor when hot water is needed. I have no idea why they are jumped.Please look at the pic and share your thoughts. post-6261-137772409197_thumb.jpg The second pic is where I have 12.3ish volts at the burner unit with the key in the on position from the starter solenoid.

    post-6261-137772409142_thumb.jpg

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I'm leaning toward a new motor but I need some understanding to assess the burner. The prior owner whom is liked in this forum stands firm that the unit worked. So, before buying a new or motor or an entire unit I need to know can the 12v burner ignite with 12.65 volts at the battery? I have juice at the starter solenoid of around 12.3 and similar at some module(do not know what it is) on the burner opposite of the fuel pump. If it can ignite with this charge what is the next test point for ignition (switch, ect.....)?

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I recently purchased a unit from a grime scene participant. I was not able to pic the unit up so I did not test properly before buying (shame on me). I sent me guys to get the unit.

    I started the machine when I first got it but did not try the hot water. A few days later I tried to start the unit with a low battery (no go). I charged the battery and ran the unit. With a volt meter I had 12.65 at the battery when running. I'm sure this should be 14 plus. I than notice a black broken wire next to the volt reg. I remove the starter (and broken the internal when trying to remount :(...... and saw the other end of the wire coming from the underside of the flywheel (stator wire). I figure that must be my problem. The wire does not have enough lack to reattach. So I have to remove a rust flywheel (big pain)......

    Does this sound right to you guys?

    I blow the carb fuel solenoid also. However, I cut the plunger until I get all my parts. I can hand crack the engine and runs with no problems. Still same voltage as stated above of course. Since I have a charged battery and have to order parts I figured lets try to get hot water in case I need more parts. I ran the machine with a nozzle and flipped the burner switch (looks like a light in the switch but does not come on). The burner does not fire. Does the system not have enough juice to ignite? If it does how do I troubleshoot ignition? I see fuel in the filter. When the carb fuel solenoid fried could I have fried something in the burner ignition? What and how to test?

    After all this I realized the starter gear shield was not attached properly and one starter bolt was painted white so someone prior was messing with the starter and probably broke the stator wire when installing the starter since they are so close together.

    Advise for anybody buying their first hot water machine used. Run the system, put volt meter on the battery when running and look for poor quality repairs (broken wires ect....).

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I ds sh also. I was using the deckter but it was just to freaking slow. I now ds sh with the fatboy bandit. I'm making the mix weeker and 15 gal at a time verses 5 gal and applying the chem and rinsing at the same time with my helper brushing the floor and top rail. This in contrast to applying, set it set and than rinse and reapply if necessary. I use the same amount of sh but with more water. I believe low pressure, high flow with a weeker ratio of sh for organic dirt and oil finishes with constant application of sh until final rinse is more effective.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Good conversation. Chappy its a good biz decision. I also recently stopped turning away deck painting jobs. I explain the cost of stripping and sanding and if the deck is elevated I than follow up with I do not offer the service on elevated decks anyway. I than proceed to submit a proposal based on the customers reaction to the information. 9.99 is precarb, scrap and paint (only on prior painted decks). Here is the crazy thing since so many people only push oil in my county and painters do not successfully market deck refinishing I charge more per sqft than hydroxide and AC stain due to slower application (paint is slower to apply). I prefer oil application but biz growth is more important. I'm a certified appraiser and develop 200-300 reports a year and the biz has gone to the toilet due to nasty regs and knee jerk reactions. Submitting a proposal to paint a deck where I control ever thing is far better than dealing with say the mortgage industry. I hope in the near future for deck refinishing and other home improvement services to carry my family with appraisal and inspection work as bonus money. For example, I gave a proposal and have already finished the job on a town home where my main competitor refused to offer anything other than strip and oil. The town home was FOR SALE!!!!! Amazing. My opinion is perform many services covering many market segments.

    Doug Black reacted to this

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Scott

    R u using the 300 series.

    TWP 300 is more resistant to cracking, peeling or blistering than most surface oriented stains on the market. Warning the natural color, while surface mildew speckles eliminate premature unsightly and black discoloration. Accelerated and natural weathering tests show superior performance compared to conventional clear and semi-transparent wood finishes. Many stains on the market are surface oriented and subject to peeling, blistering and chipping.

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