CBhaydare

I don't know what to say about it...... other than LMAO. 2 HOT GIRLS PRESSURE WASHING

Crazy.... lol Oh well. There was a restaurant around here years ago, Called the "Chicken Ranch" it was a topless steakhouse, I think they got shut down. I wouldn't want my food brought to me by some one who isn't wearing a shirt dripping sweat on my steak... Kinda does away with the, No shoes, No Shirt, No service, I guess, You got service and they didn't wear shirts.... lol

Yes, I think it is pretty ridiculous, I was browsing craigslist to see what came up for pressure washing services in and around my area and that was about it.... I feel this kind of "goof off" crap could give the pressure washing industry a bad rep.

I like this, much better than $179.00

I know this is a dumb question, What does IPE, UPE, PT stand for? I have read this whole thread and don't know what type of wood this is...:o Is PT, pressure Treated?

I agree with you Adrian. I was just giving an example, I just get tired of people when you give them a price they are like ah...... let me call you back on that, they shop your price, and get a guy $10 cheaper or they call you back. I have just made my mind up to double my price for those when they call back, cause I don't want to waste my time, they want to nit pick and get freebies too, Asians are the worst at doing this. "Ah comn man ur my frien you do for free" lol I have heard that a lot on donut shop jobs. As you said though $400 wouldn't be much of a profit if any at all. Sorry not trying to thread jack.

I know your just starting out and all, but if you were going to do all that for $200 bucks and she wants to call you back...? I wouldn't waste my time... when she calls back tell her well I'm real busy now but I might be able to squeeze you in to my schedule but it will be $400... lol still cheap I think. I had a guy do this to me before.

I hear ya! I have never worked a food job, always done construction since I was like 15, I'm not cut out for punching a clock.... lol I worked in a pipe shop for like 10 months, day in day out same place same thing, couldn't take it, had to go. Went to work for myself.... Keep it up man!

It looks a 100 times better than it did to me, and for your first one! I haven't tried doing any decks yet, going to practice on my own porch/deck. There is some good helpful info here from all the guy's on the forum. Looks like your off to a good start man, and getting jobs off of your test deck! Good Luck!

My dad just finished his pool deck, it is treated pine, some of it has been there for like 2 years with NO sealer on it, and the rest of it he just added on so it's new. What should he seal it with? He bought some Olympic water base sealer, but I told him I didn't think that would hold up very long, due to the water and sun beating down on it all the time. I said maybe a varnish, and that I would ask on here for him and see what some pro's advise. What is something good, that will hold up on a pool deck? Thanks for any help and advice. Brian

I have spent the past month designing and fabricating this machine. I had the trailer given to me it was a 16' I cut it down to 12', new fenders paint and deck. The machine is a 25hp Kohler, AR 4gpm @4000psi pump, Voltmaster 2800 watt generator,110volt AFG model Beckett burner 2.0gph nozzle, old Northstar coil, 225 gal tank. Still have to wire up my controls and plumb everything in, going tomorrow to have hoses made. *Yes I am going to put a rain shield over vent hole on the coil, just haven't made it yet*:D Let me know what you guy's think. Thanks

Thanks to everyone for the input and advice. Some of the things that were said I already had in mind just haven't got to it yet. Finances are low right now, haven't had work in like 2 weeks, the vent-hood installation around here isn't so good right now due to the economy. I have to replace a fan tomorrow so I have a little coming in... Hope to make up on the down time of no installs with cleaning all the ones I have installed, have plenty of customers waiting on me. The exhaust on the engine will be extended and out the top, I'm not keeping the straps on the tank, don't trust them due to dry rot, just a temporary fix for now. I have a mounting block for the unloader and wanted it remote mounted to begin with. As for the exhaust port on the burner, yes I'm going to extend it up and cover it, I don't want the paint cooked off my tailgate.. lol Yes the bypass is going back into the tank.

Thank you. Yea those caps were on the trailer when i got it, I'm surprised all 4 were still there.

That sucks.... lol I asked a tech at a Landa shop and he said that it should be fine that these pumps pull a vacuum, I wasn't to sure about it myself tho, I don't want to starve my pump and burn it up. lowering the frame is out, raising the tank is not a good thing as the center of gravity will be to high on the trailer. What about adding a 5gpm flowjet pump to feed it? I only have about 3ft of hose and fittings from my tank to the pump and it is 3/4" hose with about 10" of rise to the pump. 1st reason I already had this engine it was off of an old carpet cleaning machine I bought. I wanted to use the Tuthill blower also for a reclaim system, but after doing the formulas and research the 25hp wasn't enough to run everything. PSI x GPM/1460 x 1.30 = 14.25HP Then I found out that there was some big lawsuit or some kind of issue with small engine manufacturers, over rating the amount of HP that their engines actually put out. So I found another formula to be safe. PSI x GPM/1460 x 1.8 = 19.73HP. So pretty much just 20hp required to run to pump safely, maybe overkill but better safe than sorry, and 5hp to power my generator. Yea, I don't know why we need corn in our gasoline? lol I have seen what this stuff will do if it sits in a old bowl style needle and seat carburetor. May have to give you a call on that if I have problems with it. thanks for the input man. Brian

So much for having hoses made................ I forgot it was Memorial Day...:juggle: Come on some one leave me some feed back please, questions, comments, suggestions, anything...? Seems like I have the plague or something when I post, people seem to shy away from them. :crying:... lol

Congrats man! Yes they grow up way to fast, seems like last year that my son was born, but he will be 5 this year. Man time goes by so fast...

Here is some info on installing and setting a unloader valve. INSTALLATION OF UNLOADER

First off Hello to everyone! I have been scrolling around on here reading for the past couple of nights. Now It's time to post... I think I meant questIon :o I have a Beckett Burner AFG model with a F6 head. this thing had been sitting out in a barn and the weather for who knows how long. I took it completely apart, cleaned everything, bought a new suntec pump and solenoid, had the transformer tested, it tested strong. tried it out today and it ignites and burns but I have a little bit of blue smoke and fuel that isn't getting burnt. like it may have to much fuel pressure? I downloaded Beckett's PDF document for this model, but are the adjustments the same for use on a pressure washer coil as it would be for residential use? My pump is an AR and 4gpm, would I need to change the nozzle on the burner to increase the btu's for heating 4GPM? I will have to look at it and see what nozzle is in it now, I think it was a 1.50gph x90 and the pressure setting from Beckett was 120psi I haven't put a gauge on it to see what the psi is set at yet. Thanks Brian

How is it that they make the burner coils out of 1/2 sch80 carbon steel pipe, and say they are rated at 4500psi, when 1/2 sch80 carbon steel pipe is only rated to 753 psi? I know this is how they have been made for years and work but it just kinda mind boggles me... lol ASTM A53 B Carbon Steel Pipes - Working Pressure

:thinking: any ideas, input, knowledge.....?

Yea I was thinking of adding fusses, resets, or even a circuit breaker, only makes since in case of a short or overload, you don't burn something up. I want a temp gauge also but, I can't seem to find any that don't have a 3" probe on them and I feel like that would reduce my volume?

I'm wiring mine with a flow switch, and thermostat in a series. copying a Landa wiring diagram, good or bad?

When you say controls, I take it you mean, flow switch, or pressure switch, and thermostat?

Thank you very much Jerry! you have been very helpful! I have a couple more questions, 1. is there something I can use from house hold products, or something easy to get locally to flush my coil out with? 2. This was a vertical mount coil/burner, both the ports come out the bottom of it, would it be a bad idea to turn this in to a horizontal mount burner? I'm able to fabricate all new housing for it, but I don't want to weaken it's heating capability. Thank you

I put a gauge on it today and it was at 140psi, so I dropped it down to the 120psi that is on the burner rating for the nozzle that is in it right now. I ordered a 2.0gph nozzle through Grainger, I have an account there so it was the easiest. I adjusted the air bands down to about halfway open, and adjusted the electrodes to 1/8" apart, 1/8" from face of nozzle, and about 3/8" from center of nozzle. It seems to burn better and not smoke, but I am still having fuel spay that doesn't seem to be burning. I started thinking and I think it maybe the way I have it hooked up right now for testing it. What I have is, it is sitting on my shop table as you can see in my avatar pic, I wired a extension cord to, blower, transformer, and solenoid. So my opinion of why I am having fuel that is squirting out, (before it fires and after i cut the power) is because everything is coming on and going off at the same time. So the pump is pumping fuel right away and still pumps it as long as the blower motor free spins until it stops after cutting the power. But the electrodes are not sparking so it is not burning that last bit of fuel. So when set up with a flow switch, you turn the power on to the blower, and transformer, then when the trigger is pressed on the wand the flow switch opens and sends power to the solenoid and feeds the fuel. When you kill it the fuel flow is stopped before the electrodes stop sparking, and all fuel is burnt...? Is that correct? Thanks for all the help guys Brian