KC Deck

I've used a few drops of Dawn dish washing soap. Seems to work pretty well.

Actually fire needs 4 things to take off. It's called the fire tetrahedron. It needs Air/Fuel/Heat/Chemical Reaction When you throw a rag soaked with a combustible product into a corner, it begins a chemical reaction. this chemical reaction causes heat, which in turn, warms up the rag, and then rag begins to burn. Everything has an ignition temperature. Once it reaches the ignition temp it will burn. A deck exposed to the sun does not generate enough heat to cause the stain to reach it's ignition temp. Why, because there is no chemical reaction that is occurring that will cause fire. Im sure, if you break it all down microscopically, there is a chemical reaction, but not enough to cause fire.

there was a post on here a while back that had a link. I'll try and find it and let you know.

Yup, HD80 will only make it worse. The only way to remove it is sanding, or other methods i.e. osborn brush.

I gave an estimate yesterday on a relatively small cedar deck. I use TWP, and have always had good results. The homeowner received another estimate after I had left. Apparently this other guy said he uses Sherwin Williams Deckscapes and says the TWP is a transparent stain, unlike deckscapes which is a semi-transparent stain. He also tells the homeowner he only does one coat because if you do more than one coat, the stain will crystallize on the wood. He also said TWP 100 is a consumer grade stain, and is not as good as TWP 200, 300, or deckscapes. I just thought this was kind of funny and had to share it with someone who would understand. Oh, by the way, I got the bid.

good luck.

I still think you're not going to be able to get all the solid off and make the semi look good. A two tone may work, and like MMI said, that is a way you could direct the homeowner. But, all things aside, it is going to take alot of time and alot of money to do this job. You have to weigh the pro's and con's to see if you will make money or not.

What is the customer wanting with this deck? You said you were only going to do the top of the deck, no staircase, or supports? I was always taught once you have a solid put on a deck, you have to stay with a solid cause you cant get it all off. Unless of course, you want to spend all your profit and time on stripping with methylene chloride, or HD80 with booster. Im sure it can be done, but I would never try it. My advice, strip what you can with HD80, then put on another solid. If the customer wants a semi transparent stain, I would suggest tearing down the deck and rebuilding a new one.

The first time I placed an order with Russel, it took a while for me to get it. I had to postpone a job also cause I didnt have the product. But, once i got it, I've used nothing else. I love the stuff.

Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you. Cedartone is the most popular color that I have seen in my area. I have done some Redwood, but not very many.

I use TWP because of past results and easy accessibility to get the product.

Referrals 100% Non-Referrals 70% Most of my work is done off of referrals. I've been with a builder for about 3 years now and he recommends me after every job he does. I also put an add in the local newspaper which gets me about 1/4 of my work. I bid alot from the newspaper, but the closing rate is less because of competition.

I use bed sheets clamped and taped for the railings. When doing the floor, if the deck is over a patio, I use a tarp covered up by the sheets. I've used the same sheets for about 3 years now. I also use cardboard and tape for the house. I usually brush all my decks and spray my fences. On fences I hang the same bed sheets on the opposite side of the fence with clamps. It may take a while, but overspray can cost a bunch in clean up.

You'll never get the paint off and have a "natural" looking fence again. Unless of course you tear it down and build another one. Stripping paint from a fence is VERY difficult and is going to cost you alot of money and time. Plus, there is no guarantee you will get all the paint off. I would have to say, your best options would be paint it again, or build a new one.

Gave my first estimate of the year yesterday. The deck was built early last fall, now ready for some stain. People didn't even balk at the price, set up to do as soon as the weather cooperates! I thought for sure with the economy the way it is, deck staining would be the last thing on peoples minds. Apparently not.

Hate the stuff, and will never use it again. Collects mold, and turns black.

Customer satisfied = money in the bank If that's what they wanted, that's what they got. Who cares if it looks bad or not. Reason being, when I first started a lady wanted her fence washed with no stain. I tried to convince her to let me stain it and she said no. She was very adamant about it so I left her alone about it. Well 6 months later when the fence was gray again, she called me back to wash/stain it. She said she should have listened to me in the first place. I charged her 3x what I charged here the first time, and now she is on a maintenance schedule. Customer satisfied = money in the bank

Man, Im ready!! Got my homemade deckster made, and I had my first call of the season today! The only bad part is I just bought a F250 diesel and the price of diesel is probably going to be 4.50/gallon. Oh well, just have to adjust my estimates accordingly.

Where is your office located??? Kansas City is pretty big. I have my office in the northland, but have done decks in Stanley, OP, Lenexa, Olathe, etc...

Out doing estimates today. Bid a 600 linear foot close picket 6' fence. Bid according to my typical price range and the customer almost fell over. He said "I thought it would cost half as much". Well, a little background first. Fence was built 3 years ago in the heat of the summer. Stain was applied by airless sprayer in 100 degree heat 2 weeks after install. Needless to say, the stain failed and now they want it redone and made to look nice. I explained to him the whole strip/clean/brighten/reseal method and I think he finally understood what I meant and why my price was so high. He thought he could just have someone come over and apply new stain over old stain and "gray" areas of his fence. Hopefully I will get the job because I really like doing fences, but we'll see. I did get two other jobs tho, so the whole day wasn't wasted. Good luck to everyone else this year!!!

I third the running part. My experience has been, if it has been "stained" with a solid stain, they will have to stay with a solid stain because you will never get it all off. Or take a saw and hammer and demolish it and rebuild. Then they can put whatever stain on it they want.

Depending on how long it has been since it was applied, it should all be worn off. But like he just said, a mild strip should do the trick just fine.

Well after a devastating year last year, Im back in full force this year. You see, I broke my foot last year in March and had surgery in May. After 3 months of rehab, my deck business last year was non-existent. I survived off of Work Comp, and my loving wife, who supported me the whole time. Hopefully this year, I can bounce back and bring my deck business back to where it left off 2 years ago. Wish me luck, and I'll see you around soon.

Wow. I'd refuse to do it. Like you said, your reputation may be on the line, and applying Thompsons over a failing solid is like pissing up a rope. Pardon the analogy. It sounds like the customer is pretty set in his ways so no matter how much talking you do you wont convince him. Then best thing to do is...im my opinion....walk away.

Question? I just got a bid that has Cabot's Solid, dark blue on the deck already. The owner wants to use Cabot's again, but this time with a beige color to match his trim. I know (from what I've read) getting all of the cabot's off will be a chore, so I ask you this question. If I prime over the old color, will the new color bleed thru? Or should I try to strip it all off first? I have never dealt with stripping Cabots before and was just curious. Thanks.