Earl Johnson

Thanks, I'm going back today and try the nutralizer and I'll wait befor I put it on if I strip it, which I'll probably have to do. I don't look at it as losing, just learning! thanks again I'm going to try and post pics tonight. Earl

This door is hand made and leaks bad if water pressure is put on it. I stripped it with HD-80 and P/W it off. IS there another way of stripping without using the pressure?

I stripped a mahogany door that had tung oil with a top coat of polyurethyne with HD-80, then nutralized it. I applied a coat of gold Ready Seal on it and it looked great, until the next day. In a few places the wood turned almost black. The rest of the door looks good but the black has to go. Any ideas what caused this and what to do about it? I don't want to strip the whole door if I can help it. ( It also includes two panels). Any way to lighten these dark places? Have to go back the first of the week and do something, so I need some good advice! As always, thanks for any help. Earl

I haven't tried the lemonene, but I ordered the bond breaker today from them. They said this would work,,,,we'll see. Don't no about the 2 step other than what you just wrote. I think I'm too new and uneducated about chemicals to try this at this point. I would like to no more about it though. Do you no anywhere I can find more info on this, or can you elaberate? I'm going again to night and do more testing to see if I can find something that will clean without having to brush. Gutter zap has sodium hydroxide in it I think. Thanks Ron, Earl

Gotcha on the 1/4 cup of HD......Its not gutters, it's metal fascia and vinyl siding. It's the electrostactic bonding stuff. Gutter Zap will get it off if I brush. I'm thinking there must be a better way rather than brushing 800+ feet . Earl

I thought you meant you added something to the Gutter Zap. I have tested what I have and the Gutter Zap full strength won't do the job unless I brush. I was hoping to find something that I could X-jet (20+ ft.) and just rinse off. If brushing has to be done,thats not a problem, just thought I could save some time and trouble,Its pretty high off the ground and would require extension pole or a lift. Thanks , Earl

Belive me.......LESSON WELL LEARNED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That won't happen again!!!!!! I have already ordered brightner from Beth!!!!!!!!!!!! I want to do the job right, and will settle for nothing less!!!!!!!! Thanks again for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Earl

Do you mean boost the GZ with HD-80? If so, will this hurt painted surfaces and, will it hurt Tin roofing that is colored. You know, the new type of tin used on alot of commerical blds. Earl

When you X-jet the ZAP to the 2nd story, Don't you have to use a brush? I've got a strip mall to do and I tested a area (metal) and spray and rinse won't do it, have to brush it. Wish I could find something that would just rinse off. Mall is 800ft. Time consuming to brush all of that Earl

Got the ph paper, tested, and the ph was on the low side so I'm assuming the oxalic didn't rinse off. I did a light HD-80 wash (1st time using it) and it turned out great!!! No more white powdery film. IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD!!! Now the question is, How much darn rinsing has to be done to get that dredful stuff off? (oxalic) I no it must be rinsed very very good and then rinse again and that is what I did, I thought. The oxalic I have is Technical Grade Dehydrate Crystals 99.6%. Is this what anybody else uses? I really appreicate all the help from you guys. I was starting to sweat a little on this one. This is a high exposure area and it has to be right, although they all have to be right. So thanks again for taking the time to help a newbe out Happy as a hog in slop, Earl

I'm on my way to get the paper and test!!

I don't have a way to post pictures (wish I did). I was careful with the wire brush and it didn't take much pressure to get it off, but it won't sweep off. It looks like I didn't rinse the SH at all, but I rinsed and rinsed and rinsed some more. I'm not freaking (not yet anyway...lol) Earl

got my meter and sample kit and HD-80 today. Can't wait to try it all. Thank you for the quick response and your help. Earl

today. Only way I could apply it was with a pump up sprayer. Made very little difference if any at all. I took a wide wire brush and brushed the spindles (where most of the residue was) and that took alot of it off. The worst of the residue was on the virtical surfaces. It started raining so I didn't try anything else. I'll see what the rain does to it then I'll try vinagar. I think the problem is from the SH, but I don't understand why the deck before this one turned out so good. Maybe this batch was more potent. Thanks for the baking soda and vinegar info. I'll be back after the rain........ Earl

It don't look like the pole. It's not crystiized, more powdered looking although it don't rub off. I'll try warm water tomorrow. Johny, It could have dried in some places, so that may be part of the problem, but if anything, I mixed the acid weak. When it is completly dry it seems to look better than right after it started to dry. So what does that mean? I looked at it again today and looks better, but still has the white look on knots and lattice. Tommorow I'll do something even if it means P/Wing the whole deck. I'll post the turn-out. Thanks again everybody for all the input. Earl