Celeste

http://www.powerwashnetwork.com/showthread.php?p=48930#post48930 There is apparently a market in this area.....

Guy needs a pw'er ASAP http://www.powerwashnetwork.com/showthread.php?p=48952#post48952

It's a very sobering thought.

Geez.......nothing like turning folks off of log homes there Jon :) Seriously, I do get the long term health risks that you can avoid using media rather than chems. Kinda makes the term "cost effective" a mute point, huh? Celeste

Call Tom Vogel with ACR Products...........1-866-455-1293. He can get you sorted out from the ground up. Super nice to work with - he was a contractor for years so he has the practical know-how to get you rolling right the first time!

If I remember correctly, in one of those wildlife programs that I've seen, crocs and alligators have fairly small throats and don't gulp down large prey or rip bites off like lions. They drag it to the bottom of the lake, stuff it under a log and feed on it as it decomposes so they can get small enough bites to go down....Gross.

It would be hard for people to post what there steps are. Each deck stain is different and changing a step, or your mix here and there to accommodate for the difference. Roger

We're also talking major major mixing of product. At the recommended amounts, costs of the products being discussed are not dollars. Russell can give you the exact cost on his products, but if I remember correctly, using the HD-80 is pennies and I believe that the F-18 is in the same price neighborhood.

There is a lot to be said for purchasing chemicals that are specially formulated to do a specific job - one that comes with a manufacturers support and all of the appropriate ingredients (which you will not find listed on an MSDS) to make each chemical properly react with each other. Having the peace of mind that if something reacts differently, you have someone to call is well worth the extra few cents to us.

What are you going to use to seal it? That wood is so beautiful just the way it is...too bad someone can't make a clear with a really awesome UV in it to take care of wood like that.

We have it and Roger loves it. Celeste

There have been several posts of late where some have had customers who wanted (insisted) on putting a not very attractive finish on their decks - against their deck professionals better advise I'm sure. At what point to do you KNOW it's going to be ugly and fail and decide that you would not like your name affiliated with the results?

What a beautiful job! That's one of those portfolio pics that sells for years :) Celeste

Congrats on holding to your professionalism! She's going to be one that it will be nice to step back and smile at reaaalll smugly when you get your check :) Celeste

Ugh! Sorry - I cannot imagine houses that close together! You could rig up a tarp between the properties?

Here's the arbor that was part of a huge project for our new favorite client! It was finished with Wood Defender Goldenrod.

BioWash makes some environmentally friendly strippers - SunBrite used to carry some, last I checked they were actually on clearance but they may be gone now. If you're going to do a test spot, you might want to attempt EFC-38 mixed full strength with a healthy dwell time. It's gentler on the environment than HD-80 is but as I understand it, with some patience, it can do the same job. Beth or Russell could probably tell you for certain.

So, okay - WHO'S WATER DO I WANT TO AVOID???

Robert, with that strong of a chemical, what kind of residual furring do you get? It seems if a chemical is so aggressive that it can strip in that short of a dwell time, you're gonna get the fuzzies. We've also done side by side analysis with equal amounts of chemical and the HD-80 out-performed the F-18 on the deck we were working on. Don't get me wrong - we went with the F-18 on our own fence - it most definitely has it's place. Maybe it is just better suited for logs than deck boards in some circumstances? I only posted our experience on this because we are in the same geographical location so that would not be a factor. And frankly, I'm willing to bet if it's concentrated SH that you're trying to get at, Steve's RM4X would whoop both. Celeste

Thanks guys :) Well, the first time it was started, Roger & Richard started by hand.....color was ALLLL wrong and it had to come back off. Roger went back in today and applied with the Deckster. Celeste

That's awesome - they're great people!

What great information! Thanks!

We love EacoChem products - we use NMD80 all the time and have been successful with some brick restoration with GSR (which is essentially SafeRestore with oxalic in it) We have looked at the stripper cream but it was for a historic property paint removal job - it's was expensive and pretty serious stuff. From a pricing perspective, I would try the soaking with bleach and then as Tony suggested, careful use of a turbo to take them off. Celeste

The other thing to consider when thinking about taking this woman's money - From what I've read, the following is likely to happen: (1) She's going to be up someone's rear-end the entire job causing delays and unnessary stress (2) One plant is going to die and that's going to be the end of the world! (3) She will find the one corner under a handrail next to the house behind the grill that no one would ever see and the old stain still be there (4) She's not going to like the color after you're completely done (5) She'll find a loophole in the contract and not pay you (6) She will shoot her mouth off about what a lousy job you did to all of her friends (since bad word of mouth travels at the speed of light) OR She'll be fine with the job, cut you a check and have the superior "I told you so" attitude - and still not tell anyone about you. I would so run from this job :)

Hey Guys, What was your exact process for this maintenance stain, start to finish?