Chris S
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Posts posted by Chris S
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How about... "while your at it, make sure to push as much water as possible under the siding"...
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When you go to rinse sc, there is plenty of foam. Why the fixation on foam anyways? Lots of soaps have been engineered to not have foam, i.e. imagine what a laundry machine would be like if your laundry detergent foamed? It would be everywhere!Exactly. You ever see a dishwasher when you put Dawn in it? That's always a great prank at the firehouse.
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That mix will work for houses, but you probably need something stronger, like straight 12%.
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Don't know if it will help, but here are some pics. I gotta get this straightened out.P.S. I don't know how these will look on a desktop. I took the pictures, and uploaded them from my handheld.
That looks like an AR RKV model pump with the factory injector. If you are using household bleach, you need to draw that straight through the injector. If you mix it with water, it will be too weak. Try looking for a supplier that has 12% sodium hypochorite.
If you are set on using that rig, I would unbolt the unloader and call Bob at Pressure Tek for a new unloader and hi draw injector. I actually started out with a set up just like that. If you use straight household bleach without results, you have an equipment issue. If you have any questions, feel free to call me.
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Anyone know if it is 100% legal to put flyers in a newspaper box? Dont want to get a big fine my first year "or ever"..A few months ago, I put fliers out on mailboxes when I lost one of my dogs. I happened to talk to a Postal Carrier while doing so. I asked and she said that nothing is supposed to be attached to a mailbox, but she let me do it under the circumstances.
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I am probably sticking with DeckScapes oil again this year. I have been using it for several years, and have come up with a few custom colors that my customers have really like. For me, it has held up pretty well. I regularly drive by a fence that I did in the Spring of 03 that still looks really good.
On the other hand, I feel like I'm missing out a bit by not trying some other products. I like that fact that products like Ready Seal and Wood Tux aren't readily available to the homeowner. It is probably comforting to some that their contractor uses a "contractor only" product. Also, with the Wood Tux, the same day application would be really nice. Does anyone have a problem selling the customer on the fact that you can stain a "wet" deck?
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I almost went ahead a replaced it with another airless. If I go airless, I am getting a Titan 440. Let's say you had the $800 that the Titan costs, what set up would you go with for staining?
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What kind of sprayer? That makes a big difference.
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I run a General TS2021 pump with a gearbox. It works great, but I think I would probably prefer a belt drive. The biggest thing that I notice is the vibration from the engine that the pump endures. I've noticed a few loose bolts from time to time on the gear box. As far as performance, I have not complaints. I have about $1300 invested in a 5.6 GPM machine, which is very cheap.
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Try some foamy oven cleaner. What I have done in the past is spray it on, let it set, and then rinse it off when I get to that part of the house. The foam lets it dwell,and it can be rinse at close range with a soap tip. Make no promises. The customer goofed your not a magician.
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I'm sorry to hear that Steve is out of business. I learned ALOT from him and others over there when I was first starting out. On one occassion, I ordered packing kit for one of my pumps. I had never replaced packings before, so he thoroughly talked me through it over the phone. He then shipped me his personal slide hammer and packing installation tools so I could do it myself. I'm sure others have stories like mine. The industry has definitely lost a stand-up guy. Good luck in the future Steve.
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I am having some trouble hooking up my hi-draw injector. I have a DeWalt DS3750 3750PSI 4GPM. I bought mine from Pressuretek. My PW came with a Chemical hose that attaches onto the barbed fitting. I know that the hi-draw injector should be placed after the pump, but exactly where? I wish I could use pics to give a better idea but my camera is not working right now. I am going to be downstreaming. I already have all the other connectors to go with the hi-draw injector.If I'm not mistaken, that machine may have the downstream injector and unloader as one piece. I guess if that is the case, you would have to upgrade to a stand alone unloader, and then attach the injector.
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How are you going to apply it? That is the most important element when deciding how to mix your housewash. If you are using an x-jet, 50/50 would work with 6% bleach. If you are downstreaming, you would have to use it un-diluted and you would still have some troublesome spots of mildew/ and mold that would need a re-application.
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4 GPM is good, but more is definitely better. I run 5.6 GPM now, and the bottom line is more volume saves time! That means more money in your pocket. If you can swing it, definitely go with at least the 5.6 TS2021 General Pump.
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Unless a gearbox is as solid as a direct drive, then it seems as though there would be some play in the connection of the two and the gears. You do not want that pump sloshing around on rubber.I checked my unit for some rubber cushions, forgot to mention earlier it is the tires the trailer sits on.
The gearbox/pump combo is basically like a giant direct drive pump bolted to the back of the motor. Thanks for the replies everyone. I will only put rubber between frame and trailer floor.
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I carry a Chapin from Lowe's with deck stripper in it. I have it mixed pretty strong to hit any tough areas that my regular mix may not have removed. I usually just replace it every season. It's the all plastic, 1 gallon pump up.
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Hey Chris, I mix it up in a 55 gallon drum. I fill the drum about 1/2 full with warm water then add all 40 #s. Then I stick my pw wand in the barrel and fill it the rest of the way up. When I get ready to use it I use my drum pump to give it a quick stir. It seems to work fine that way. I mix it wth the 12.5% right b4 I get on the job.That's what I was planning on doing. So you don't any product settling to the bottom of the drum over time?
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What is causing the vibration?Normal vibration from the engine is usually absorbed through the frame but I am curious if you have another source which could be an indication of something not in alignment or mounted incorrectly.
Rod!~
No unusual vibrations, I haven't built the set-up yet. As far as it being absorbed by the frame, I can't imagine an angle iron frame absorbing much of anything. I would think, at the minimum, I would need rubber feet inbetween the frame and trailer floor.
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I know nothing about gear drives, but it seems that flex from the pump is a real bad idea, but why do you feel you need this? I have an All American skid and there is no rubber anywhere, but Yes it is a belt drive.As feet for the skid, but nowhere else in my opinion.
Could you elaborate on the flex from the pump? I'm not sure I understand. As far as the need for it, the pump rails obviously need support, so I figured some type of hard rubber would be good to disipate vibration on the pump due to it being directly connected to the engine/gearbox.
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Thanks John. Good info coming from the guy that I'm sure has used it more than anyone on Earth.
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I am in the process of building a steel frame to make a homemade skid unit. I am building a basic box frame out of angle iron. It will have a 15 HP Kohler, gear box, and a TS 2021. My question is, what would be the best way to reduce vibration? I am thinking that I could place rubber feet in between the pump rails and skid frame, and between the skid frame and trailer floor where it will be mounted. Where can I find a good, durable piece of rubber for this use?
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I used Emulsifier Plus a few years ago, but my main complaint was the waste left in you bucket after mixing with cold water. I was thinking of mixing the entire 40 lbs in a drum and then adding the liquid to my 12%. Has anyone done this with success?
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--And I wouldn't use ND. The detergents in the oil help to suspend the "junk" in the oil...with ND, the harmful deposits deposit themselves on the engine components instead.
I should have been more clear in my original post. I was asking about ND for the pump.
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Anyone run synthetic in your small engines? I have not before, but I will on this new engine as soon as the break in period is over. It will only cost me a few bucks more a year, so why not? Does anyone know if someone sells a synthetic ND 30 oil?
Switching From X-Jet M5 To Downstreaming
in Residential Pressure Washing
Posted · Report reply
99% of my house washes can be done with 200' of hose. If the rare occasion arises that I need 300' of hose, I just put a downstreamer inline 200' from my gun. This FAR outweighs x-jetting or any other method in my opinion.