beyoungsr

Back the trailer in as close to a fence as possible. Try and have the side door expsosed to a smuch traffic as possible. Chain the wheels if you can. My b.law will let a lot of the air out of one tire. No theif will change the tire before stealing. P.S. Maters locks can EASILY and QUICKLY be broken with a hammer and chisel.

Not sure how old the trailer is but it may just need a brake adjustment . There is a star adjuster on each brake for this purpose.

You will have to change your unloader!

Based on what you a saying now it may be toast. I thought you may have had the rotary type pump. Russ has given you great advice to follow. If you purchase another machine make sure it has a low sensor on it.

Do you have a rotary style pump or a four bolt direct drive pump? Remove the pump and try starting the engine. If it cranks purchase a new direct drive pump for $200-250. A picture would help if you are not sure of the pump type.

Joe, Glad to hear that you are one of the guys doing it the right way. I am sorry if I implied you were operating illegally.

Biodiesel may be an option to look at if it is perfected in the distant future. You may try only using the burner during washing. For most work cold rinsing might be fine. Seems that I remember that most burners will consume around half of their H20 output per minute. It holds true for my burner anyway. Not sure if I would publish the fact that I am using farm diesel. I know of a bunch of old boys that got checked at a farm auction. They each recieved $1800. dollar fines! We can claim the road tax during tax time and recoup about .40 per gallon.

OTP, You might find some ideas below if the problem has not been resolved. 20 hp honda gx620 simpson unit it runs for apx 15 min then shuts off will start back up but shuts off after a few minutes anyone have ideas thanks steve steve 06-30-05 13:53:14PM IP = 64.12.116.10 46132 RE: Honda 20hp trouble is it a new unit. how long have you had it. was it sitting for a while. more details. jjs 06-30-05 15:01:17PM IP = 70.32.79.162 46135 RE: Honda 20hp trouble check oil, it may have a low oil shutoff. If thats ok take air filter out and see if it runs better then, if so replace with new one. dave 06-30-05 15:16:40PM IP = 205.188.116.201 46137 RE: Honda 20hp trouble Had a similar problem with a Simpson 5000 psi unit and it was the fuel pump. william 06-30-05 17:12:52PM IP = 24.211.112.96 46141 RE: Honda 20hp trouble I have had 4 of them vapr lock on me. After I rerouted the fuel lines, no more problems. I have also had them do this after it had been too long between oil changes. The level was fine, but it still shut down. Probably because the oil was too thin after having way too many hours on it. Scott Stone 06-30-05 19:40:11PM IP = 68.98.110.110 46145 RE: Honda 20hp trouble I just went thru this and one issue was a crimped/pinched fuel line. Honda for some reason had to make a sharp turn on the line where it comes off the filter and goes into the pump. Apparently it shrunk from the heat and pinched it was. It would run fine for awhile then die. Start back up and run fine for a little bit then die again. Behind the plate that reads Honda 20Hp is the fuel pump, and the line that comes over the top and enters the right side was the culprit. 2 screws will release the plate for a quick check. PP 06-30-05 20:38:53PM IP = 68.169.178.97 46149 RE: RE: Honda 20hp trouble I had the shut off problem for a while with my GX620. It was not as frequent, but it would go down for no reason and start back up with no problem. Then one day it shut down and refused to re-start. Had it checked, they found a bad fuel solenoid. After that was replaced, never had a problem. Some guy named Frank 06-30-05 20:23:55PM IP = 70.110.65.249 46148

This old boy will ask the same question on every board there is. He rarely reponds to any of the suggestions.

You should not have to prime a SHURFLO. You might run in to problems if you didn't purchase a pump with enough lift. Ditto on the aligator clips.

Alan, I also use 10w30 synthetic. We have been using it for about a year now. We have not had any problems with low oil conditions like shut downs ect since switching. The slightly increased cost can be viewed as cheap insurance for the engines.

OTP, Good luck! I know what you are feeling!

We use to use ball valves. I found them heavy and hard to close as they get age on them. And yes I make a lot of shade myself when washing. I removed the gun from my surface cleaner. We now attach the lance and gun directly to the rotary union. Actually copied this idea from a very successful pwer in this area. Tnis works great for us. You might give it a try depending on how your surface cleaner is configured .

OTP, Not sure if the 20 HP HONDA is affected but, the 11 and 13 HP can be shy to start if they are placed in severe angles. The angle makes the switch see a low pressure condition. you might look for info here if this works http://www.perr.com/forum/

Use of a Camelbak hydration system can help keep a heat stroke from happening. Light weight, easy access, and you don't have to stop working to take a drink. I beleive Beth sells them.

This seems like an odd question to ask this time of the year. We wash year round.

Alan, Do you use any fittings that are not brass or stainless? You may be getting flakes of rust if you are. Galvonized or black pipe is really corrodes over time. Why not filter directly at the pump infeed?

RLS, Try this: Just screw a 1/4" plug on the end that normaly screws into the turbo or rotary union. Attach like a normal nozzle and squeeze the trigger. This back flushes the filter without having to take it apart.

Do you have any concerns about running the pool water directly through your pump? Did you have to check PH or chlorine levels or anything else prior to using it? Is your machine belt drive or direct drive? What do mean by grounding out the pump?

Sounds like you already have an answer.

Open you gun and have water flowing out of the wand before starting. No nozzle is needed. We use nylon ties to lock the guns open and slide them up when needed to release the trigger. Insert the nozzle once the machine is running. Try this and your problems should go away!

I am guessing since he was concerned about the shower, he is using a direct faucet connection. The surface cleaner nozzles or the rotary unions inline filter might be blocked up. ie rust, teflon tape, grass ect. Try using your gun without a nozzle. Do you have good flow? If not check your supply filter for blockage. If you have good flow insert a pressure nozzle and squeeze. Do you get full pressure ? If you do you have isolated the problem to the surface cleaner. If not try another gun if you have one. They do go bad and can stick closed. If all else fails you can bypass the unloader and run directly off the pump head. This only works if you don't have the built in bypass type unloader. The gun must be locked open with a high pressure nozzle installed for this test. Utilize a helper to start and stop the machine while you hold the open gun. This test can be dangerous if you are not careful. If in doubt don't try it! If you now have good pressure you have located the problem. Rebuild or replace at your discretion. I would toss it. Good Luck!

If you guys are doings decks why not insert the soap nozzle and let water flow to the yard. I doubt that you are down streaming to the deck anyway. As far as a reliable and inexpensive way to turn your 110 burner on and off try the GE brand at Home Depot. Mine was around $20.00 and has a range of 150' confirmed. At $2.20 a gallon there is no need to burn unneeded diesel fuel!

I agree with Tony, For a two year old machine it looks like it was run hard and put away wet. It looks used and abused to me. I would make the purchase contingent on the weekend performance you have planned. I know you are anxious but I would proceed with caution. Seems like I have been hearing of a lot of Briggs motors throwing rods in the last year.

Well I guess even the small home lots are bigger in Texas. This is not an issue in my area.