John Burdine

My dad is still out there a few days each week. He just got started in this business a couple years ago though.

I have a client (an association we regularly clean gutters for) who just had all 100 or so of their decks replaced. They are wanting to take better care of them this time but are insisting on a clear wood finish over a stain. I'm a big fan of Ready Seal but color is a tough sell for these folks. What is the best clear wood finish that can be applied in one coat and won't build film over the years of repeat application? They are expecting to have this done every 2 years or even more frequently so durability isn't a huge issue, I just don't want to have to strip before future applications.

The decks are not yet treated with anything, I know that was confusing when I said "over a stain" I meant they prefer the use of a clear product instead of a stain.

[quote name=Scott Paul The Defy can be cleaned and re coated without issues and from feedback that I have heard, it will hold color better after the second application.[/quote] I have not been pleased at all with how Defy recoats. The second and third coatings never look anywhere near as good as the first.

What exactly is everyone doing to stain on those days that are too windy to spray? I'm talking about those days where even tape and drape, spray shields and all the works is still too risky. I use Ready Seal and when its a second story deck on a windy day I've usually used those one-hand small jug sprayers and deck pads, and just sprayed right into the pad and applied like that. I've also tried a bucket and a painter's mitt with good results as long as the deck isn't prone to splinters. I've also used powered rollers and a hurricane brush on the decking. I've used rags, mini rollers, and paint brushes. I also just ordered a spindlease (spelling?) to try on the spindles. Nothing is perfect though so I'm open to some new ideas.

What tools do you use on the rails?

Impressive. No body keeps genealogical records as consistently as those descendants of Jacob. If you can go back that far I wouldn't be surprised if you could go back to Adam.

We are finally figuring out how to taper our color options down. We use to offer anything and everything. Now with Ready Seal, I can focus on Gold, Red and Brown, and if the want red or brown lighter I can mix the gold in to lighten it up. Also, I offer an annual maintenance program, but I don't have very many on that plan. I'd like to get everyone on it as those are some of my happiest customers and they really do save money in the long term.

Doesn't adding the wax to the soap hinder your cleaning effectiveness?

This is a deck we pressure washed and sealed in Des Moines, Iowa. Cedar decks turn grey because of the sun but as you can see they can be restored to their original appearance and protected against future weathering.

We stain over silica stabilized wood after just 2 days, so what's the problem with 1 year? We have great results applying Ready Seal over it. Stains are stains. Silicas are stabilizers. Totally different functions. Both protect the wood from different things in different ways (another example is ACQ lumber offering decent insect protection, but not much else). Look up the long long history of using silicas to harden masonry products. Silica does not form a film on the surface, it hardens into a glass like substance within the wood, keeping it from swelling and contracting. It actually seems to improve the longevity of surface coatings applied over it. I'm in the process of developing a warranty based on crack and cupping prevention, just trying to find a way to quantify it. I don't know much about the Seal**** warranty, but I suspect 99% of their warranty problems relate to the lack of clarity and setting expectations. I tell my clients that our stabilizer does nothing to protect the surface from greying and mildew. For that they need us to apply a stain.

We clean by putting down a sodium percarb based soap, and then wash with around 500psi, 5.5 gpm. The last step was the application of a silica based wood stabilizer, so yes it was clear. I agree that a stain with some color gives a more even finish (I usually use Ready Seal), and also resists graying longer, but this client wanted to protect the wood and not bother with coloring it. And no they did not want the privacy fence done at this time, you win some and you lose some.

Here are some pics of a house wash job we recently completed in Ames, Iowa. Without using high pressure we were able to completely eradicate this mildew from our clients vinyl siding.

This is a concrete patio we power washed in Des Moines, Iowa.

Did any sections dry before you got them rinsed? Not sure how you can hand wash fast enough without the soap drying on you.

So, lemme see if I'm tracking with Rick's advice. Under normal circumstances, Ready Seal doesn't need to be stripped, but since its 9 yrs old, its mostly faded any way and more than enough time for mildew to get in (and under?) the stain. Too risky to just bleach clean and recoat???

Great results there. I think the most chem I've used on a deck is about 15 gallons. I get to the point where I'd rather come back when its dry and sand the rest. Of course when I come back to sand the rest I wish I had stuck with it with the stripper. James what's the name of that stripper from eacho chem? and does anyone know if ammonyx lo works well with deck strippers to give them cling? (i use f18)