ScottsDecks

I'm looking to source several hose reels for my 4000GMP pressure washers, as well as my airless sprayers. These will be mounted on the side of utility trailers. Any recommendations? I understand Reel-Craft has a good selection. Thanks, Scott

Jason, Shoot me an email and I can tell you about the homemade chemical sprayer setup I have. scott@scottshomeserviceskc.com

TWP 1500 series will build a film much quicker if it's not brushed in correctly. The film will crust over at the surface and will peel off. It will also be glossy and not blend in properly.

Very cool. Thanks Charlie.

Dawn dish soap also works as a surfactant like NP-9, but you have to add lots more of the stuff. I'm not sure where to buy NP-9, and I've heard you can only buy it in 55gal drums.

Got your message. Will give you a buzz on the 26th. Thanks.

Beth, and everyone else, thanks for the responses. At this point I think we're going to run with Beth's minwax option. Not looking forward to stripping the garage doors again..... I've never worked with Minwax on outdoor wood. Will the top coat peel like the urethane did? Also, has anyone used naptha in conjunction with wood restoration? Thanks again, Scott

Sure, the first and last three pics are after photos. The second is a restored, or after stripping and neutralizing photo. Thanks, Scott

Hey guys, This is a T1-11 garage door with cedar trim. The previous finish was probably a varnish with a urethane coating. Needless to say, the hot sun put a beating on the urethane and it was peeling badly. I was able to strip the urethane with a gel stripper, and then sodium hydroxide to remove whatever varnish or "stain" was underneath it. The wood was neutralized with oxalic acid and de-felted with 3M buffing pads on a variable speed polisher. After the tough strip the wood looked pretty good, as you can see in the pics, however once the preservative was applied (a mix of Bakers and TWP1500) it was obvious on a couple spots the glue would not allow the preservative to penetrate leaving the spots. I'm not sure what to do at this point. I've tried sanding the spots, applying a darker preservative etc... My customer is not excited about removing the plywood, as it's glued to the back of a piece of sheet metal. Do any of you vets have any suggestions? Thanks for the help, Scott

A customer today told me another contractor could remove water based/latex based products with "dry ice". Has anyone heard of this process? Thanks, Scott Scott's Restoration scottshomeserviceskc.com

If the job is sold correctly, $45 per gallon to remove latex should be no trouble.

Would like to see some pictures. The right mixture of percarbonate/hydroxide should eliminate any organic compound. Any time you are dealing with a sodium based chemical you need to neutralize with an acid. I have found the correct sodium percarbonate mixture is effective at removing most weathered oil based products effectively. If necessary, add some sodium hydroxide. Again, post some pictures. Scott

Did you test our your stipper to see how hard it will be to remove the previous products? Since you will have to clean all the structures anyway, it might be just as easy to strip them. It will look a heck of a lot better than adding another coat of oil based solid color. What type of preservative are you using. (Brand)

Oil based or water based?

Is there a previous finish remaining on the structures? Why semi solid? Scott Hugunin Scotts Restoration 8164014616 scott@scottshomeserviceskc.com