Aplus

Try using the other hand....LOL!!!

Russ, Maybe for small odd-n-end tasks a voltage converter fits the bill, but for heavy amp drawing applications, I don't think so. Some guys work at night, and may need several 1000k watt lights. Others, like me, use a sprayer for certain applications, and find it more conveniant to bring your power source to the work area, rather than having to use very long lengths of extension cord. For example, I've had to do some fences that were several hundred feet long. I would not want to have 300' of cord stretched out, plus the voltage drop may get too severe. Truthfully I only carry about 150' of cord anyway, and if I needed significantly more, I would have known that and just loaded my generator.

Bill, What do you consider rough use? I would define it as using hot water, and dragging hoses and couplings on concrete, which I do, and even then the stainless hold up better than the brass. Of course harsh chems are rough too, and again, stainless beats brass. Brass is just a softer metal than stainless steel. I also know there are different grades of stainless, and I think it's called the 'rock hardness'. Maybe someone else can expound on this.

Ditto to what Alan said. Exact same way I do things. Also don't forget that it you use a pressure activated unloader, you actually get a higher psi spike when the unloader first activates. So you definitely need a reel that can handle the psi. You didn't ask, but I have Cox reels, and can highly recommend them.

I use all ss now, and get them from espec. About three times a year they have big sales on couplings, and that's when I buy them. 1/4" are about 2$, plugs about 1$. Even though they are cheapie Chinese imports, they still hold up quite well, better than the expensive American made brass versions.

These are probably the worst awnings I have ever seen. Every single awning has mold growing on it. The one in this photo is close to typical. They are stretched cloth. Fortunately they are cleaning up real nice, but take a lot of work. Took 3 of us almost seven hours to clean 31 of them today. All the outside faucets were disfunctional, so we had to get water from a hookup in the boiler room. It was the first time we had to use all 250 feet of garden hose in the trailer. Needless to say, the portable washers were dragged around a lot. Fortunately today was a really nice day, around 73 degrees, lower humidity, partly cloudy, just a great day to be outside. Two more days and we'll be finished.......ugh.

April-August probably 50-70 hours a week, including estimates, but not necessarily including paperwork. Most of my crew work 30-40 hours, and a couple just work 1-2 days, maybe 12-14 hours/week. Sep-Oct maybe 40 hours a week. Nov 15-20 hours a week. Dec-Jan 5-10 hours a week. Feb-Mar Zippo. I've learned the importance of building a nest egg.

I've had a few sodium hydroxide burns even though I wear ppe. It happens, liquids, especially mists, find their way where their not supposed to be. That's why I won't work with HF acid. No way, no how.

It's not so much I think it's unprofessional, I just don't like chems on my skin any more than necessary, if at all. Some of my guys where shorts, but I warn them that some of the products we use are not advisable to be on your skin. It's not too hard to wash off your arms, but it's harder to wash off your legs without getting your feet wet. No matter how hot it gets, I never wear shorts, and I'll still wear rubber boots, gloves, hat, and respirator when needed. I just don't like to take any more long term risks than necessary. If you have a problem bleaching out your clothes, why not look into some protective waterproof coveralls? You can get inexpensive ones at HD or Lowes for under ten bucks.

Pretty much the same in southern Michigan. Dang! I'm glad I don't wash trucks this time of year.

There is a uniform store a few miles from me. They also carry an assortment of used uniforms as well. I went there a couple times looking, and the used stuff was really crappy. THe clothes often had holes in it, caulking or undercoating all over, and stains that would not come out. Not the kind of stuff to bolster your image. We too wear blue jeans and logo shirts. If you watch closely, you can find blue jeans at either KMart or Walmart for about $9/pair. When I find some at that price I buy about ten pair. I keep the pants and shirts separate for washing and staining activities, because obviously the staining process is what tends to wreck the clothes. If you need a supplier for good quality logo'd merchandise, I have a local vendor who does outstanding work at very reasonable prices. It's a hsuband/wife team that works out of their home. I pay $8 per t-shirt for 100% pre-shrunk cotton shirts by Fruit-of-the-Loom, with large logo on back, and small one on the chest. Baseball style hats, embroidered, are around $10, and nice golf style shirts with embroidered logo on chest are around $23. I used to order some stuff from the mail order company Wear-Guard, until I found this particular vendor.

Been to the Smokies, Rockies, and Poconos. We have a place in northern MI, on a lake that we get to as much as we can. For me, I can't get away roughly from Memorial Day thru Labor Day, but the wife and kids go during that time. I get two weeks away for deer hunting, and two weeks in south Florida every year, so I can't complain. Likely will start combining a little get-away with the PWNA convention, seems like a good way to get a little write off, learn something, and another winter hiatus.

I support a motion that Henry start a poll asking what percentage price increase (if any) everyone plans for next season.

Sure, just stick the inlet hose into the antifreeze, and squeeze the trigger.

I don't think this is an accurate statement. If the battery were Nickle Cadmium, then yes. A lead acid plated battery, no. Running down nearly complete and recharging is not a good idea with a deep cycle marine battery. In fact, the best idea is to keep it on a trickle charger if it has to be stored for extended periods, to keep it at full charge.

I price based on the style of house, and the degree of difficulty. It could be a small house, but if the gutters are high, and the roof is steep, the price will be higher than a house that is single story, walkable roof. I've done enough that I know how to charge just by looking.

You know you're a redneck if you clean your ears out with your car keys. That and the Thompsons issue together, certainly qualify one as a redneck.

Ditto for me. I've only used ShurFlos, and have had very good performance from them. Chemicals have no effect on pump operation at all. A large marine battery allows me to work all week on a single charge. It's heavy, but suits me well. Too many sites don't have 110v available. Many outside receptacles are switched, and even though I mention to them to leave the switch on, at least half the time they forget. I plan on installing a 12v pigtail connector in the trailer, so I can plug into it during transit times. That should keep the battery full charged all the time.

I used to use mink oil. Now I use silicon spray in a can. Keeps the leather soft and water resistant.

Started part time in 1996, while working full time for EDS. Served 17 years in various postions from mainframe computer operator, to business analyst, production support, and finally, the last 5 years as a system administrator. In 2002, I resigned and begin power washing full time. Have not looked back since.....

I have both single and tandem axle trailers, and I can vouch that the tandem axle trailers are better balanced, and overall a better choice. I know it adds a few hundred to the cost, but a trailer is something you could have for many years, so it's best to get a good one up front.

My guess is that most likely, you will need to strip and restain. I've done the wiping with mineral spirits before with a little success, but your problem looks more severe.

Then you need to ask the salesperson to connect you to somebody who does know about it. They do have a technical support department.

Kinda like supercharged.

That is funny. I guess we've all sunk to potty humor. So if you would call your self an expert in the field of dog poop removal, what would it be?? Doodyologist?