Aplus

Jon, just replace the keyway. If I remember correctly it's just a standard 1/4". Take old pieces to HD or Lowes and match one up. And when you put it back together, a little anti-seize compound helps a whole lot for the next go around. And while I'm thinking of it, it's a good idea to put a little anti-seize compound on the sparkplug threads, to make sure the plug doesn't become a bugger to remove. Oh, and if there was a set screw, put a dab of thread lock on it. Use the light duty stuff, cause the heavy duty thread lock is too strong for allen wrenches.

I've only used the RS gold on fences. Looked really good, and seems to have held up as well as any other color. My guess is using it on floors, you'd likely still get a good 12 months, maybe more if not in direct sunlight, like say on the north side of a house. Why not call Pierce for his input?

I realize you didn't ask this, but...... try switching to a 20" surface cleaner, and you will find the machines you have will work a whole lot better. Regarding the questions, if you want to operate both of your current surfacers off one machine, go with the 10.8 gpm. Remember, it's the flow (gpm) that does the work, not so much the psi. Also check to see the maximum flow your surfacers can handle at a given psi. Some of the rotary swivels may not be able to handle large flow. Also remember that the nozzles on the surfacer will have to be changed to match the specs of a new machine. And while I think of it, verify you have the correct nozzles installed on the surfaces you are using with your current washers.

Hey Jon... The AR RKV is a good pump for the money. I have two of them on direct drive machines I use. It would be wise to buy a new unloader too. I've bought pumps that came with the unloader already installed. All I had to do was attach the four bolts to the motor, and tighten the set screw. Also, I found that rebuild parts were kind of expensive. Figure about half the cost of a new pump, or maybe a little less, but either way, it's not cheap. I know a set of packings cost me almost 70 bucks alone! Good Luck.

I've cleaned hundreds of awnings. Although I typically use cleaners formulated for specific awning materials, I can say I have enhanced some cleaners by including other chems. Many commercially prepared cleaners contain a mild form of either sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Whether or not to use bleach, or if you really need it is another question. Depending on what is under the awnings, can help you decide, as well as the degree of mold on them. If mold is heavy, you need more chlorine, but you have to be careful of the runoff and what it lands on. If that's a concern, then quaternary ammoniums work really well because they are less toxic to greenery underneath. Citrus based cleaners can work well too, but they don't mix with chlorine products. So a one-size-fits-all approach really doesn't work. Tide and bleach could work in some situations, but not necessarily all. Every time I've cleaned awnings I've done some testing with several products to determine which combination works best. In fact, it's always best to do upfront testing BEFORE bidding on a job. If that's not possible now, then plan on having several products on hand, and test when you start. When you find out what works best, you can always send someone out to buy more if needed. Good Luck!

The Paypal scam is known as "Phishing" The phish (pronounced fish) with a bogus email until someone clicks on the link and enters valuable account information. Usually originates from over-seas, and it you give them your info, your account will be drained quickly, and you are plain outa-luck. Never click on an email link to get to a website. Always go back to your browser, and enter the address manually.

I once used a trauma cleanup service. The company was referred to me by the local police dept. Seems that the company was run by a group of firefighters and cops who were not only familiar with dealing with the event, but also had work schedule flexibility to run the business. For myself, no way I could do that sort of cleanup. Not for me at any amount of money involved. I like to sleep at night when I lay my head down.

I guess someone forget to tell Lance about the "special" bonus he will be receiving for 1000 posts. Oops....was I not supposed to mention that??

OK Chemist...you make some valid points. What would you recommend? I'd be more than happy to hear an expert's point of view as to how best handle algae/mold covered shingles. Please realize that some of us are also concerned for our health, and do wear appropriate protective gear.

Sorry...I still don't buy that....if you're talking about fences. Whether the stain is water based or oil based, it's just the delivery mechanism that gets the stain on the fence. Although I prefer oil based, and that's mainly because of maintenance issues, a properly prepared fence, along with a properly applied stain, be it oil or water based, can give satisfactory results. Now if we are speaking of horizontal surfaces, such as a deck, my experience has been that oil based stains seem to perform better. Just my .02

Why not just have Rhino liner or a heavy duty epoxy paint applied to the floor to resist chems? As for shelves, making them out of treated wood or epoxy coated wood is very cost effective. I just can't see any payback or particular valid reason to need ss racks, shelves, or floor liners. My oldest trailer is almost ten years old and has had lots of small spills inside with no ill effects.

I downstream chlorine, and don't worry about rinsing. Does a great job.

Not a true statement. There are many water based stains available that won't wash off in the rain. Preparation is the key, and that is the main area where the 5 minute deal falls short.

WHy not turn the on/off lever attached to the hose a little, to reduce the amount of chems used? To me, it's foolish to change hoses, when a simple solution is right there.

Or, a nice vacation in Vegas wouldn't hurt, while checking out the show a bit and getting a nice tax write off!

I like it all....variation. That's one of the reasons I quit my day job four years ago to pursue this full time. Doing something different everyday, makes everyday enjoyable. But I do dislike working on ladders, truth be told.

It's good to see those vertical planks aren't touching the ground. When they do, they soak up moisture, and start turning black on the bottoms. If they want to fill in the gap, to keep out critters, attach chicken wire to the very bottom of the planks, and bury it a good 4" deep, then backfill with some nice stone.

I prefer using full synthetic oil for all my engines after they are broken in.

Seems to me that making a small batch, then testing it somewhere discreetly would be a good thing. I'd tend to lean towards starting off a little weak, then adding more beads to get the desired effect.

Looks like someone's gonna have a lot of tuna fish sandwiches for lunch.

As standard practice, I always tell customers 48 hours before using a deck after it has been stained. During extreme humid conditions, I also tell them it may take longer to dry, and to exercise caution so as not to track into the house, just in case it's still tacky......which hasn't happened often for me.

Nice job Roger! I'm always a bit hesitant to take on a job like that, due to the possibility of it taking too long. But I'm sure you've got one happy customer to keep on the books for maintanence.

John, I don't see any reason an electric motor option can't be installed. Would need to check with a good distributor of your reels and check. And I also can't see how it would be cheaper to re-buy them with a motor, those reels are kind of expensive. I've got the powder coated blue reels from Cox, so I'll have to check with the vendor I purchased them from. (Mark @ Easyclean) I know he'd give straight answers.

For washing houses, pressure over 1000psi can be a bad thing. Water can be driven under siding, caulking and trim can be damaged or blown off, and window seals can be compromised. To properly wash a house, there is no better, or more proper way than to use a quality house wash mix, rinsed with low pressure, at a good volume, say 4.0gpm or higher.

Hot boxes are also available as propane fired. The control mechanism is much like a hot water tank in your house. They are conveniant because there is no need for a generator, blower, or even ducting for that matter. Two 20# tanks in parallel, or a larger single tank work well for occasional use. I personally don't feel a hot box would be the best choice for everyday commercial use.