Aplus

Chuck, I read the article in Cleaner Times about cleaning bird droppings and abatement. Previous to reading the article, I had not thought about the histoplasmosis threat and didn't wear a respirator. Now I do. Anybody who isn't getting Cleaner Times should be. I learned enough from that article alone to justify the cost of the whole annual subscribtion. Please pass on my thanks to whoever researched and provided that information. It might have saved my health.

Bryan, you should do a couple test patches to see how it will be, before you decide if you really want it. For myself, I don't get into jobs like this one. I will solid stain it, or walk from it. I don't have the patience to put in the hours that could come of it. Plus if you have to get into the methylene chloride strippers, you're looking at some really toxic stuff.

Bryan, Check out this link http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6189#post6189

Bryan, I subscribe to a mag called "Cleaner Times". It is devoted to the power wash industry. In the back of the mag where the vendors advertise, there are chemical companies that offer free samples. I have had at least two companies provide samples. If you can't get samples, then buy a smaller quantity for testing purposes before committing to a larger quantity.

I second what Ryan said. By the time you rinse and clean everything down, you should be ok to spray a mild bleach solution on the house to disinfect it. One other thing, bird droppings can contain viruses and other nasties. Best to wear a respirator and protective gear when washing. Better safe than sorry.

I'm just curious why one would go to the expense of dual engines, burners etc. Why not use one small diesal engine, say about 60hp, and one boiler, and go that route?

Badger, Really that's the best approach to take. There are too many different factors involved in different regions of the country. Many suppliers will send you small samples to test with before you commit to purchasing larger quantities.

Bryan, I agree, softened water is nice to have. For me, however, it would not be practical for the way I do my work. You know how I prefer portable units on many jobs due to the required mobility. We here in lower Michigan enjoy some of the best "city" water in the whole country. Compared to other areas of the country, our water is very usable right out of the tap. I was just down in southern Florida, and their water is horrible compared to ours. I could notice how much longer it took to rinse things, like dishes, and even while showering, I felt like the soap was hard to rinse off, to feel 'squeeky clean'. And it tasted like chlorine. Water treatment down there would make a bigger improvement than what we see here. If I washed vehicles, I'd be more concerned about whether I left water spots, and a softener and D-I system would be appropriate. For me right now, I'll take DEEtroit water right out of the tap. As for black streaks......well, sometimes gutterw will come clean from spraying alone, but most times they require at least a little brushing. There's a line when mixing the chems where if the mix is too strong, it could do more harm than good. Like take paint off, or damage metals. Rather than take that chance, I'm ok with having to provide light brushing. Basically just move the cleaner around a bit, not actually scrubbing. Sometimes scrubbing is required, no way around it. There are two ways to approach a job.....FAST, or HALF-FASSED. The right way is not always the fastest, or least expensive. Writing from experience here.....I do not feel there is one solution to all problems. The key here is having experience to know how to deal with each situation or problem in the most effective way. Not all surfaces are cleaned the same way. If I have to brush something, that's ok, because at least I know it will be clean and will not be damaged when I'm done. Brushing is an unfortunate fact of this trade.....sometimes you have to do it.

I'm not a fan of using liquid Tide either. I think it was originally included in a house wash mix to create suds which help increase dwell on vertical surfaces. However, most laundry detergent is designed "to not" create a lot of suds. Dishwashing soap may be more appropriate to increase dwell time. I use Emulsifier Plus and liquid pool chlorine. Works great for me, but I had to fiddle with the recipe for a bit to obtain the results I was looking for. You have to be careful with what you use, because windows, polished brass, and bare aluminum can all be damaged faster than you may think, especially on hot days, and when you are working alone. And don't forget about the potential for overspray....wind can carry sprayed chems 50 feet or more with ease. So the neighbors cars, lawn furniture, etc can easily be damaged. There are many products available that were specifically formulated to wash houses. Why not use what's available? A one chem fits all approach is usually not the best approach. It's important to consider that the water condition in your area is probably the single biggest factor to consider when mixing up a recipe that works for you. The harder the water, the more chems you will need, and likely the less satisfactory results you will see.

Having previously discussed this with Beth, I can safely jump in here and say yes, you can can intermix Wood Tux colors.

There's a company here that hand washes houses. One of my customers watched a house across the street from him get washed.....4 guys for a day and a half! They worked off some pretty high ladders too. I wonder how much they charged.

Paul, I emailed Glenn once regarding some questionable (Read: wrong) advice he dispensed. I offered to discuss it with him via email or phone, but he would not return a message to me. Glenn is merely an author who sells books and newspaper columns, and in my mind he doesn't know alot about what it really takes to perform certain tasks. Apparently the vendors do a good job of supplying him with sales baloney.

We got about 4" Tuesday. Supposed to start warming up next week though. I've got 152 decks at a condo complex waiting.....and I'm chomping at the bit to get going....plus the bank account needs refilling after being off for 2 1/2 months!

I've always thought that a man should know about wood.

I think it could be the weep holes in the siding. Check to see if there are holes under the lip of the siding that line up with the streaks. Weep holes can collect water and soap, and slowly realease them over time, causing streaks.

After I read it a couple times, I understood what Alan was saying. He has a distinct way of describing events.....:)

If you are looking to cart-mount a plastic tank, don't forget to consider overall weight. A a full fifteen gallon tank mounted on a typical portable setup, would weigh about 150 pounds. That is very heavy when thinking about dragging it around site to site, through who-knows-what type of terrain. A full twenty gallon rig weighs in at about 190 pounds. Anything greater is probably wishful thinking at best.

Lighter fluid and a match is the easiest way to deal with it. Seriously, I pass on taking jobs if I know I can't strip it completely, unless the customer is willing to recoat with a solid.

That was a waste of $200. There should be no need to buy small containers like that.

Wow, what a relief. Tell him thanks again, for all of his support and efforts!

You mean they will be snow covered? Now that is a trick.....:)

Yeah, sometimes certain tender plants will suffer a little shock. I tell the customer upfront that could happen, and also tell them I will do the best I can to keep the plants safe. I just don't want surprises incase something happens.

All I can relate is that with the K&N installed, I notice an improvement in mid range power, especially when towing. Not measured by fancy equipment, but rather the old seat-of-the pants feel.

That job is superb Reed! I haven't had a two toner quite that big, but I've done my share. Actually I don't like doing them either, but they look dynamite when done, and make a lot of extra $$

I use dual lance wands so I have no use for roll over nozzle holders.