Aplus

Paul, that's what I always thought too. However, there seems to also be a theory about moving water building up a static charge on the gutter which attracts dirt, etc. Any thoughts on this? I've never really bought into that theory. I don't really know 100% for sure what causes the stains, but I know I can remove them. As you mention, degreasers or similar products are what works to remove the stains. Also, you make a good case for looking at the Allbright, it is certainly priced right. I'm still not going to xjet gutter cleaner, but it will save a good amount of $$ on each house wash.

John, You are mentioning a point that has intrigued me for some time. If you mix HD80 at 16oz per gallon, it will not completely dissolve in the water....you will have white undissolved residue on the bottom of your pail. You will be xjetting the solution, as well as splattering white residue out the tip. The way I see it, there is no way to xjet HD80 at full strength. This may be fine for cases where a weaker mix will do the job, but not when a higher concentration is required. Even if you mix the HD80 at 10oz per gallon,(which I think you can) you still can't get a full strength mix at the output. Maybe Morgan can share his wisdom on this.

Heavy spiderwebs can only be removed one way.....break out your brush! Water just goes right thru em' and doesn't remove them. Sorry to tell you that, but I think you probably already figured that out.

Rob, The first one you do is going to be a learning experience. Depending on the size of the copper area to be cleaned, you are somehow going to have to assess the amount of time it will take to clean. I have never restored copper, or should I say never been asked. I figured people wanted to keep the patina look. The correct cleaning products will make all the difference. Good luck.

Lots of nasty mold growing on these fabric awnings. It was thicker and tougher than I hoped it would be. I had to do some hand scrubbing to get the desired results. Bleach did most of the work, but there was still crud left behind that the brush handled.

Do you use the Purple Power straight or diluted? Just wondering what the actual cost per gallon is. Gutter Zap for example, is 10-12 bucks per gallon. Shipping costs are fairly high because of the weight, and having to come on commercial carriers. So if I mix 2 parts water for each part GZ, then my actual cost per gallon is about $4 or less. Not too bad.

I hope all are practicing safe chemical handling. You never know when an accident is going to occur. To prove I practice what I preach...here I am applying HD80.

In this picture, is the one and only time I've ever applied a caustic with the xjet. The gazebo was just too big. I pulled out my pump cart and realized there was no way I'd get the coverage I wanted. Protective gear worn again.

I know what you mean about the black streaks. Still, with a good brush and a little scrubbing, I get off almost all of it, and I am very picky. So what's this great gutter cleaner? Please tell us. BTW, a homeowner mentioned that they use a retail product called "Greased Lightening" to remove gutter stains. I've seen it at the retail stores, but never paid much attention.

Here's another fine example of gutter zap in action. I almost always brush the gutters, it uses far less than xjetting the product on. People are amazed when they see these results. Almost every house I wash, I use less than a gallon of GZ.

Robert, You have to consider who told you not to break in an engine with synthetic oil. Are they a subject matter expert? Rumors mean nothing. Engine break in is a critical time. How well an engine breaks in plays an important role in engine longevity. There are plenty of independant reports that suggest synthetic oil outperforms petroleum based oils in every single test category. Consumer Reports ran a great article on exactly this topic. The myths were dispelled and the facts were presented. I've been using synthetic motor oil exclusively for over ten years. I have not had any engine failures during this time. The extra $3 per oil change is cheap insurance and peace of mind for me.

I don't understand why those manufacturers would say not to use synthetic. That does not make sense to me. Hey Paul B...are you out there???? What's your take on this? I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic 10-30 for the past eight years, and have not had a single engine failure. In fact, I run it in my vehicles, the lawn mower, the generator.....every single engine I own. I swear by the stuff. In my pumps I use 30w non-detergent oil. If I could readily get it in synthetic, I'd use it too.

All right Beth...you go! A couple things....... If you have about a 30 degree bend at the end of the wand pipe, just before the nozzle, you will find the wand much easier to work with. It looks like you have an extension on the wand you are using. On the short extension, place the 30 degree bend. You will find that you can relax your shoulders, and not put so much strain on your wrist. It's easier to walk and keep the water spray directly down on the deck. I prefer a dual lance over a straight lance. I really like the Alkota with 40" pipes. It's nice to be able to adjust the pressure on the fly, as conditions change. It's also nice to throttle back the pressure while rinsing, to reduce the debris that can splatter all over. Also, I now just use HD80, and don't bother with the other percarb cleaners on all decks that have a previous finish. To me, it takes too much time to have to reappy another mix and wash the deck again. On decks that are new and not heavily greyed, I use a percarb cleaner. On decks that have no previous finish, and are heavily greyed, I use a mild mix of the HD80.

Bingo!

Jon, I typically wash metal awnings the same way I wash aluminum siding. I apply a good emulsifing detergent via an xjet, and wash with a #9 25 degree nozzle attached to an extendawand. When I do an estimate for an aluminum sided home, I explain the oxidation process to the customer. I tell them that washing will clean the siding, but it also may contribute to a duller apppearing finish. It's a fact, it happens, and there is nothing you can do about it. I've tried liquid spray-on car waxes, and they don't do much. I don't think there is anthing that will really create a shine, short of a buffer and some rubbing compound, followed by a paste wax. Or the aluminum may need to be painted in order to look really good again. Discuss with the customer a realistic expectation. Do the best you can do. Be satisfied that nothing more can be done to change the outcome. Sleep good at night.

Mike, The reason I say to change the oil before storage is this....dirty oil is caused be carbon and unburned fuel which accumulates in the oil. I don't think it's the best idea to store the equipment like that. I wouldn't want to have any sludge build up in the engine which might impede proper oil circulation in the spring on start up. I use Mobil 1 in all my engines, and the viscosity does not change regardless of how many hours are on it. I'd rather have fresh oil coating the bearings and cylinder walls during storage. If your method of storing an engine with dirty oil works, then by all means go with it.

Reed, I'm glad your son is ok. As a parent myself, I would be sick with the fear that my son could be taken from me so easily. I've just about had enough of this Irag business, it's time to re-evaluate why we are there, and what we are really trying to do. Some time back it seemed so many in this country were gung-ho to go blast the he|| out of Irag, but it's just not that simple. There has been a horrible toll in loss of lives of our young men and women over there. A lot of people have lost their loved ones' and my heart goes out to them.

In addition to what Mike said, I also use the fuel shut off, and run the engine till it stalls. This empties the float bowl as well. It's a good time to change the engine and pump oil, that way you know it's ready to roll come spring time. I also spray some wd40 over the bare metal areas to keep them from rusting

SPST = single pole single throw. A standard on/off switch, although I use a marine grade to resist corrosion and water intrusion. I have soldered all the connections, and enclosed the wire in plastic wire looms where possible for added protection. I have a standard pressure wash gun attached with a 12" lance and a 25 degree tip. The hose is connected to it via a quick connect, so I could attach an extension pole of any length, and spray as high as the pole is long. I am using a large deep cycle marine battery. It is very heavy, but holds a charge a long time. I've done 16 9x15 decks and still have plenty of charge in the battery....and that's spraying stripper and brightener. I've got the rig prepped for another pump. That way, two people could be spraying at a time, either the same chem, or different chems. That is why I chose such a large battery. It took a fair amount of fabrication and welding to put this rig together, although it does not look like that from the photo. I have a stainless steel filter attached to the hose that drops into the bucket. The hose is 3/8" rubber airline hose, 50 feet long. My pump is 60psi at 1.4gpm. I don't know how it would work with 150-200 feet of hose. My gut feeling is that 100+ psi would be more appropriate for such a hose length. It cost about $200 including the battery to build this rig, but worth every penny. I used to use a pump up sprayer to apply chems, and this is at least ten times faster. It is important to rinse the hose and pump out with clear water after every use....before storing. Any other questions???

Here's a pic. Oh, and you'll also need a spray gun and tip. Experiment as to what works best for you. I use a 25 degree tip.

Start with a two wheeled dolly, some 12 gauge wire, a spst switch, some 3/8 tubing, hose barbs, and clamps. Having access to welding equipment is really the best way to fab everything up, but I suppose some bungee cords and clamps could work in a pinch. I'll post a picture of mine, but remember, it's a 12v unit, so yours will not require the battery. Try drawing a diagram of how you visualize everything should go together, then build it from that. good luck.

There's not a one-size-fits-all starting point. It depends on what kind of stain is present, how much, conditions, etc. Until you get a feel for how to adjust the strength, I would recommend following the manufacturers directions. Experience comes with time, and soon enough you will learn how to adjust the strength up/down for each situation.

Welcome Jim, I just hope you don't use that picture with a bird on your head. I know what birds do when they land......:)

Alan, I didn't mention names......must be your guilty concience:)

John, Maybe that's because there were too many times you confiscated baggies of stuff and forgot to turn it all in.....;)