Aplus

Morgan, I think the truck washers tend to upstream more often than use an xjet. Maybe ron p will chime in. I think it would be too dangerous to xjet hf acid. I don't think I'll be applying stripper on decks with the xjet any time soon, but I won't say never, because like you said, there are times and places where it is appropriate.

Earl, Add more gutter zap to your mix. I tried to explain to you that sometimes you need to mix it a little stronger for certain jobs. You need to go out and do some testing, and learn from that. Painted surfaces can be damaged by either gz or hd80. You need to prewet the surface and keep rinsing it as you go. As for tin roofs, we don't have those here in Michigan, so I can't tell you from experience. Gut feeling tells me you need to keep them wet too so you don't get any discoloration.

Joe, There is no exact formula for boosting a mix. Experience tells you a starting point, and you go from there.

Beth, We stripped everything, except the underside of the roof. It took 10 gallons of stripper. Paul, In the pictures above, I am actually using an xjet copycat, called a vjet. It looks very similar to the real mccoy, except it has a threaded end for interchanging the 1/4 meg nozzles. Basically, I change nozzles for the purpose of altering the spray pattern. I use the shut off valve on the hose to control how I want it blended. I do have a real xjet, but I wasn't using it in that photo. The extend-a-wand I have has no problems priming, in any position. Of course, it's only an 8ft extension. On my larger extension poles I have 3/8" hose, and even they prime and draw with no problem. I'm using a 4gpm machine.

Earl, Try boosting the amount of gutter zap. I've found that if I have to brush, then I probably haven't mixed the cleaner strong enough. Sometimes just a few more ounces of gz makes all the difference. It's especially noticeable using the xjet, because you're diluting a mix that's already too weak. The hardness of the water, air tempurature, and other factors can affect the way products work. I always figure the directions on a product label to be a starting point. Then, I can adjust as necessary for each job.

I'm using an extenda wand....I love it. I'm going to eventually replace all my other crappy twist cam type adjustable poles with extenda wands. You can see my cart sprayer on the side. I was going to use it to apply the chems, but it then occured to me how big the gazebo was. Does anyone remember the old TV show called Home Improvement? "I don't think so, Tim"

Another view..

Here is a gazebo I stripped and washed Saturday. It had two coats of the old Penofin Cedar Marine. This one was a perfect candidate for stripper application with my xjet. It was the first time I ever used my xjet to apply stripper. It sure goes on fast. Check it out.....

It's been alternating between sunshiny one day, and rainy the next. Job schedules are out of the question, I've had to go day by day what I can get done. I'm not about to complain, after hearing of the havoc many states went through. I'm glad all the members here are safe, as far as we know. I'm also glad the truck lying on it's side was not wearing a bow-tie.

John, Thats the way I'd do it. I generally use HD80 for removing all sealers, Thompsons, etc, mixed at a lower rate, like 2 cups per five gallons. I prefer to use the percarb cleaners on new wood and wood that has never been sealed. As Beth mentioned, homeowner applied clear sealers can sometimes be more challenging than you might think. HD80 works for sure, every time, and it's fast.

I would have a helper stand by keeping a constant stream of water on areas you don't want stripped.

Received mine too, thanks! Those are some neat jars the powder samples are in.

Paul, It is true that the TWP formula was changed last year. I had been in contact with the folks there several times, and had a rep out, when one of the cedar decks I stained prematurely faded. They would only tell me that they had to make a change to the solids content, to satisfy EPA requirements. I can tell you for 100% certain....it is not as good as it used to be. I've used 100's of gallons, and can tell differences. I will not say anymore in a public forum, but I would discuss it with you via email or phone. apluspowerwashing@comcast.net (734)479-1148

Using an xjet to spray caustics or acids is like hunting chipmunks with a shotgun filled with buck shot.

Don't forget the brightening aspect. Cedar for example, darkens when a caustic is applied. Aside from the neutralizing, I think the brightening is just as important.

John, The way I approach pricing awning cleaning is to try and estimate the amount of time I figure it will take, multipled by the hourly rate I want. Cloth awnings seem to be the hardest to clean. I've had to hand scrub some of them, especially the residential ones that have the scalloped edges that hang down. Vinyl awning are often more ridgid and usually easier to clean, may or may not require scrubbing. Metal awnings are a piece of cake. Wash it just like you would any aluminum siding. I haven't done any really large high awnings like say a Block Buster. Those would probably be a little more of a challange, and would be priced accordingly.

Johny, I've had several decks with Sikkens that I couldn't get the railings acceptably stripped. Sometimes it happens no matter how many coats of HD-80 you use. Every time I bid on a job requiring Sikkens removal, I tell the customer that I may not be able to remove all the stain, and we need to evaluate after the stripping is complete. Typically, I find that if the Sikkens finish to be removed is two or more years old, and gets alot of sunshine, it removes easier than a deck where the finish has prematurely failed within a year, especially areas that my be in the shade more often. I've had times where the Sikkens finish laughed at HD-80. Fortunately that doesn't happen too often. But I never walk away from a job. It's the prefect opportunity to upsell to a special two tone finish. Don't leave money on the table.

Steve, The gutter zap itself is made up primarily of sodium hydroxide and a butyl degreaser. It can damage aluminum siding finish by itself if exposed for too long. It's important to keep constantly rinsing the aluminum siding. The last mix I made, I used about 1/2 gallon gutter zap to about 1.5 gallons water. It wasn't quite strong enough, so I added about 1/4 cup hd-80, and it worked like a charm. The reason I added the hd-80 was because I didn't have enough gutter zap on my trailer at the time. I had an order in for a 15 gallon barrel, but it wasn't here yet. Improvising became suddenly necessary. You will probably need to experiment with what works for you on any given job. Start out with a small amount, and add more until you get the desired results.

I look at it, and see a joke. In light of recent world events we all can use a little laughter. I don't see any slamming whatsoever. I think the point Beth was making is not to slam other board members, or to speak about products in a way you cannot backup. Lighten up Morgan.

I'm glad that one of the two is now home safely. Sounds like the worst is over, and the other one is still doing well. Hopefully he'll be home soon too. Thank them both for me for supporting our Country!

I think the gutter zap is primarily sodium hydroxide with butyl cellusolve. Before I knew about gutter zap, I was using a truck degreaser that the sales person at the local power wash supply store recommended. It was KO, and I mixed it 1 part to 3 parts water. It worked ok, but required extensive brushing. It was the only solution I had. I tried simple green, and that worked a bit, but also required brushing. If it weren't so darned expensive, I wouldn't even fool around with home brews.

Beth, It sounds to me like a film from a previous soap or solvent. The soap from a previous cleaning may have dried and caused a situation similar to what I encountered. If a section can be reached, try the soft scrub and see if that works. It was the last thing I expected to work, but I'm glad it did, because otherwise I would have had to order some Scum-Buster or equivalent product that is advertised to remove the film from dried soap on glass. I find it hard to believe anything can be permanently baked into glass, from sunshine alone. It sounds as though the hardest part is going to be access. Tell Rod to consider this......Falling is not what hurts you....it's the sudden stop! :D

Mike, Espec says 2 gals emulsifier to 3 gallons bleach. I mixed as 2 gallons emulsifier, 1 gallon bleach, 2 gallons water, and xjetted it at about 1.7 - 1. The mix worked excellent on the conditions at hand. If the mildew had been heavier, it may have been necessary to step up the bleach content. Also, if clorine is used instead of household bleach, (12% vs. 6%) the ratio would need changed. My opinion so far is the bleach percentage is variable based on the about of mildew present. I would suggest tp phone epec with questions regarding other methods of application, and what the rates should be.

OTP, I use 3M respirators. I like the fit, and feel, as well as the broad selection of cartridges available. If you go to HD or Lowes, or a paint store, you will likely find respirators that are outfitted for paint mist, which is not appropriate for what we do. Also, those stores often do not stock the correct cartridges. I buy all my safety supplies from Direct Safety, as Paul mentioned above. OK...I just went out in the garage and looked at my supplies, and here is what I use.... 3M 7503 Half Face Silicon Mask 3M 6006 Multi Gas/Vapor Cartridges 3M N95 Prefilter Pads 3M N95 Retainers I also use individually packaged alcohol based wipes to clean the facepiece each time I use it. Direct Safety sells a box of 100 that is very conveniant. Also, every couple weeks, I remove the cartridges, and wash the mask in a pail of warm soapy water. I use an antibiotic hand soap, and it makes a nice sudsy water to clean your mask in. Does this help?

Not only is it important to wear a respirator while mixing dry chems, it is equally important to wear a respirator while spraying the chems in any fashion. And also use goggles and gloves. Many chems, such as oxalic, are absorbed thru the skin. It's not just the overspray, but what if a component failed, and the raw chems sprayed you in the face? Could you find something to rinse your eyes out if your eyes are closed? I usually keep a filled bucket of water nearby for emergencies. I also have eye wash stations attached inside both my trailers. Regardless of whether chems are liquid or dry, no matter how they are applied, NO MATTER WHAT.....everybody who reads this, please use all appropriate safety gear each and every time you work with the chems. I would like to see discussions on all the BBS's regarding the safe handling of chems. I usually notice that many are quick to recommend to newbies what chems to use, but they usually fail to mention using safe handling practices.