Aplus

Done....THANKS!!

The biggest problem I see with a box van would be the high load height. Most are a good three feet up, and thats a pretty good step up, or even pretty high to lift things in and out of. Perhaps someone who has one would chime in on this.

At that ratio, it would be applied directly. Russ, you should look at carrying citric acid as well. In most cases it works just as well as oxalic, but carries MUCH less hazards.

Sounds to me like there was some of the old stain not completely removed. When you applied the semi-trans stain, it absorbed at different rates. You'll need to look closely at the "blotty" areas. With careful observation you may be able to see what went wrong. Do you have any pictures?

At 180, my rig will burn 2-2.5 gph. Running full tilt at 194, it will burn 3+ gph.

It's been asked before what can be done about vines growing on brick. In this case, the plants were cut at the bottom, and the vines were allowed to dry 3-4 weeks before they called me. First thing I had to do was pick off the bulk of the vines by hand, talk about sore fingers..... we tried brooms and brushes, but nothing worked as well as our fingers. We washed with about 1300 psi, a #8 tip if I remember correctly. It was slow, tedious work, but the results were worth it. I felt glad to get these results, because sometimes, it doesn't turn out so well. I'm not sure if the differences are because of the type of brick, the type of vine, or what, but I have had other jobs that did not turn out so well. I told the homeowner up front that we would not know exactly what the results would be until we actually started the work. Of course it worked out favorably this time, and we even got a $25 tip!

Alan, I used cold water. I personally don't think hot water is going to make a difference in this situation. Since you say the vines are already dried and dead, try the bleach spray and cold water with under 1000psi and see what happens. You may have to remove some of the larger vines by hand, and I'd think it would be easier when they are dry. If you are unable to get the results you're looking for, then perhaps the Eachochem products would be worth a try. I don't support the idea of applying vegatation killer. Way too toxic, and you don't want to leave the ground poisoned so that it can no longer support plant life. You can kill the plants just as easy by cutting the vines at the bottom.

Russ, Yes, I would appreciate that very much. If you can readily order them, then I'd like two so I can have a spare and never have to bug you again for a dumb metric set screw.....:)

Hey Russ.....thanks for sending the set screw....the problem is, it caused a little rip in the envelope and the set screw apparently squirted out. I can't believe that happened. Needless to say, I'm still in need of a set screw.

Projecting a professional image is priceless. I always tell potential customers that our crew will show up in company uniforms, which makes it easy for customers and neighbors to know exactly who it is walking around in the backyard. Especially nice when working in apartment or condo complexes, so their is no mistaking who is walking around. I pay $8 per shirt, and buy at least 50 per season, along with sweatshirts, hoodies, and hats. It's just a cost of doing business.

Exactly what I do.

The green one doesn't have enough punch.....give me one of those red ones!!!

Yes....just pm'd you.

Those shiney spots are usually caused from stain that didn't fully penetrate, and dried on the surface. It could have been that the surface was not clean enough to allow the stain to penetrate, or too much was applied, or not properly backbrushed. I'd do what Shane said and utilize the customer support available.

Be careful if you're assuming everyone will want the copper restored. My experience has been that most customers want the old, aged patina look. Plus, realistically, even if you do clean them, in hardly any time, mother nature will have them looking once again like they do now. It never hurts to be prepared to clean them, but don't be surprised if you get some objections.

It won't lower your car insurance rates......:)

Hey John, if you're flying into Detroit Metro, you're just 20 minutes from my house, and Pontiac is less than an hour. If you read this, give me a call and maybe we can get together for a cold one.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!! Hope you can take a day off to enjoy all for yourself. (I know, wishfull thinking, but still, you deserve it!)

Maximum Computer...Car Craft...& Cleaner Times

It's always nice to give a little something back!

Alan, I've been using Mobile 1 10w30 with no problems. In the smaller engines, I've used it for the ten years I've been in business. On the All American, I switched to it after the rig had about 40 hours.

If allowed to dry on glass, Emulsifier Plus can really make some nasty white streaks that are tough to remove. It can happen in less than a minute on hot sunshiny days.

You must be talking about a different product. The Emulsifier Plus mentioned here is packaged and sold specifically as a house washing product. I have very good results with it. It is available from Envirospec.

I've got a Graco Magnum 7 from HD that works excellent, and was only about $500.

Never done that, but I often mist a deck down to cool it before applying strippers or cleaners. But you make a good point about flash drying, and I've always contended that stain that is finely atomized when sprayed, may well flash dry before it has a chance to penetrate the wood properly.