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Aplus

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Posts posted by Aplus

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I don't use Wolman products, but I can answer your question. After stripping a deck with their deck stripper, you do need to brighten with either oxalic or citric acid. Wolmans brightener is an oxalic based product. Be sure to wear goggles, gloves and a respirator (not a dust mask) when applying any of the Wolman products.

    Also, in the future you may consider contacting Beth on this board to help set you up with professional grade strippers and brighteners. They will work better, and will save you substantial money.

    Good luck.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Paul,

    If you purchase supplies as tax exempt, aren't you required to charge the tax to the customer, then report and send it to the state? I'm fairly certain that's how it's done here in Michigan, so I would rather just pay the tax and not have to worry about collecting sales tax from customers and sending it in to the state tax authority.

    The Weatherbeater solid stain at Sears is manufactured by Olympic, and retails for between 14.99 - 18.99 per gallon, depending on whether any sales are in effect. I always prepare the surface the same as for any other application, washed and neutralized.

    It seems that the labor cost of applying three coats would make most two tones cost prohibitive. I understand what you're saying about the possiblility of it lasting ten years, but I still think nearly tripling my price would not be an easy sell.

    Beth,

    At what strength should I mix the EFC-38 so as not to strip RS? For this particular job, I mixed at about 12oz in 5 gallons. I recently did another cleaning job where I mixed it at 8oz in 5 gallons, and it seemed to be about the right strength. What do you think?

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Everett is absolutely correct. I carry a spare pump in the trailer, and I even have a spare in the garage. In my experience, the pressure switch is what typically fails. I've also found it best to solder all exterior wire connections, then encase them in shrink tubing. Corrosion can be your worst enemy.

    As far as pumping chems is concerned, I have put many different chems thru my pump, and of course follow up afterward with fresh water for a rinse. In three years, I'm happy to report very good results with my sureflow setup.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Sears Weathbeater has worked very well for me for two tones. Here's pics from a job we did in 02', on a two year maintenance plan. We only stripped the floor, which was only supposed to be a wash with efc-38, but apparently it was a tad too strong and removed most of the old rs-light brown. The solid stain on the railing system was nearly 100% intact, except for some spots at ground level that were sliced with a string trimmer.

    This shows that less expensive stains can deliver satisfactory results if the surface preparation is done correctly. I'm expecting to have to recoat the railing at the four year interval, which should be on par with Cabots, which costs over twice as much.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Try this...Keep a copy on your rig.

    The Angle of the tip doesn't affect the psi coming out of the nozzle.

    But it does affect the pressure as it dissipates quicker. By this I mean the distance you are from the surface to be washed. A 15 degree nozzle will still have more psi at say 6" than a 40 degree nozzle would.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Agreed...I suppose what I really mean is that the right chems and the right equipment have made me much faster and more efficient at washing houses!

    And don't forget about experience.....you provided a great example when describing what you're doing in a particular order. Don't want to be standing around during dwell times.

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