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Aplus

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Posts posted by Aplus

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Respirators are a good start, however many chems can be absorbed thru the skin, like oxalic acid, for one.

    Personally, I never use HF acid, and never will. HF acid is an insidiously dangerous chemical, that causes burns deep within the cells of your flesh, without ever making a mark on your skin. Gloves and goggles are probably more important than a respirator when it comes to HF.

    The main difference I see between washing houses and trucks, is that houses are in a residential setting, where children and pets play. Trucks are generally in a commercial setting, washed out on gravel, or if necessary, on mats where the water is recovered.

    You're right about chems being identified in the future as hazardous. Who would have ever known asbestos was so bad, or PCB's would be such trouble makers? That's why I always wear my PPE for every chemical I work with.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Do you let your customers kids and pets run around you when you wash a house?

    Of course not Bob, but after I leave I have no control of that. I'm more concerned about the residue that's left behind. I do my best to rinse everything completely after I'm done.

    What about when you strip a with deck sodium hydroxide. Was sodium hydroxide developed just for decks?

    No, s/h was not developed just for decks, but HD-80 was. There are other chemicals added specifically to the mix that enhances the performance. It's not just s/h.

    I prefer to use products that were specifically designed and blended for a certain task. I use a product designed to remove black streaks on gutters. And a product created to emulsify dirt and oxidation from siding. Then there are those blended to clean concrete, and clean trucks, etc.

    My on the job experience has shown me that using multiple products for specific applications is more appropriate than a one-chem-fits-all approach.

    I have reviewed the MSDS for every product I use, and understand their appropriate application, and safety concerns.

    There are studies that have linked chlorine to cancer, it is on the United Nations banned chemical list. Is this safe for pets and children. Think about it.

    Here's a great link regarding chlorine... http://popularmechanics.com/science/research/2001/1/chlorine_ban/print.phtml

    Based on this article, maybe we shouldn't be using chlorine at all, but until there is a satisfactory substitute for us, I'll have to continue using chlorine, like it or not.

    I'll be wearing my PPE.

    I'm trying to point out that each user should evaluate their own situation, do their own research, and chose the products which they believe to be appropriate for the need.

    This is a discusstion thread afterall. Everybody is entitled to their own approach and way of doing things. When I see some users promoting a one chem shotgun approach, I feel the need to point out other methods. I'm not saying either one is better, I'm saying to look at everything available before you decide. In fact, whenever i write about certain products, it's first hand knowledge, not what I've heard from others. It's my .02

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Bob,

    I'm not saying anything is wrong with multi-tasking chemicals. What I am saying is everyone needs to understand what they are using, and how it can negatively affect their health.

    It is one thing to spray soap on a truck, it is completely different to spray on a house, because so much more soap is used, and the soap can get all over other things as well as yourself.

    It is also important to realize you could be affecting children and pets as well. Afterall, trucks are not washed in your backyard. Think about it.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    The only way I've found to attach things to the trailer walls, is to use appropriately sized self-tapping metal screws, and screw right into the vertical metal supports in the walls. They are often but not always 16" on-center. It's easy to find them because the plywood walls are also attached to the supports via a similar self-tapping screw.

    Also make sure you buy the right type of bracket or hanger, etc....that is designed for the task you seek.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I remember a post from Paul B awhile back discussing the ingrediants in 6136. He identified one as carcinogenic. That doesn't sound like something I want to work with on a daily basis.

    The thing I can't understand is why people praise the 6136 so much when there are products specifically formulated for washing houses, and is not carcinogenic.

    My gut feeling is that too many are looking for a one chem fits all approach, and that just isn't the right way to go. Also, MSDS sheets are either not being read, or not being given the proper caution necessary.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    The phosphate issue I believe regards the effects the discharge has in rivers and lakes. I think the original gist was aimed at laundry detergent, because just imagine how much laundy is done, and what all the soapy discharge does as it goes into the sanitary. The removal of phosphate was for environmental reasons.

    In some locales, at one time, the sanitary and storm sewers intermixed, and much ended up in the water. Most cities have been required to fully separate the sewers by the feds.

    If you can't find TSP locally, check out the chemistrystore.com for your raw chemical needs.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I totally agree with what Robert said. I know a lot of folks xjet their stripper, but I don't. I prefer my portable pump cart, because I can control EXACTLY the ratio applied to the surface.

    It uses less chems because I can more accurately deliver the chems where I want them, as opposed to the xjet which really blasts chems all over the place. I just don't see how chems can be applied accurately without spraying and backsplashing all over the grass, shrubs, house, etc. At least half of the chems must end up in places unintended.

    Just my .02

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I have an enclosed 5x8 that I've been using since 97, and I left the floor bare. It's 3/4" marine grade plywood, and I have had no problems whatsoever.

    This particular rig is outfitted with two cold water portables, and carries all my deck strippers and stains. I drag so much equipment in and out, that if I had a solid painted floor, I probably would have scraped everything off anyway.

    Countless chems, gas, stains, and water have spilled on the floor, yet it is still solid like new. However it is a dirty floor and not as attractive as some.

    The fact is you can go either way with the floor, but if I had to do it over again, I probably would have painted it just for appearance sake.

    Speaking of trailers though, has anyone considered spraying the underside with undercoating? Now that's something I wish I would have done.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Rob,

    You should be taking pictures. They would be great sales tools. A picture is worth a thousand words.

    I've not yet used the RS Gold for a deck, so I haven't tried that combo, but I have used RS Cedar, and mixed in additional light brown or medium red for blend jobs like you mentioned. It works pretty well, but not to the point you couldn't tell the new from the old.

    Did you know that RS cedar is made from a 50/50 blend of light brown & medium red? It's nice to know if you have leftovers and need to mix to make more cedar. Pierce has told me that many guys have told him they regularly mix various colors to achieve certain results.

    I did a huge deck two years ago, where one portion was fire damaged and repaired. I mixed the RS Cedar with some RS medium red, but the wood grain was the noticable thing. The new wood had tighter grain, and the older was more open and had more surface cracks. Well, I was just back there last week to quote a re-do, and the wood surfaces look closer than they did two years ago. Maybe if I didn't know where the repairs were made it would be harder to notice. Or maybe my expectations are higher, and I tend to notice things that most customers wouldn't notice.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I use 3/8" diameter, and 50' length of hose on my sureflow setup, at 60psi, 1.5gpm. Longer hose lengths my require additional psi, but I have not tested to see what the psi drop may be in longer lengths.

    I also use red colored hose for my sureflow so I can easily identify it from my hp hose when it is lying on the ground. Too many hoses lying on the ground can make a tangle like wet snakes, so it's easiest to color code them.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    So if you had to run out and buy band-aids, it means you don't have a first aid kit on board. You should remedy that right away.

    Regarding the extra socks......that is a good idea, of course not keeping them in the cooler, but extra socks that are dry and not sweat soaked will feel more comfortable on the next job.

    I also bring extra pants and shirt in case I need them. The last thing you want is to have an accident, spray stripper on your pants, and not have anything to change in to.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Since it is not to large over the water, how about taking a swim and pulling some tarps under the structure? Then use a vacuum or sump pump to remove the collected water.

    This sounds like the most viable idea to me.

    On docks that are higher up, I've seen it done that way, but rather than take a swim, they use a small row boat to manuever around.

    That pond looks to be a private one, so technically, you could discuss your concerns with the homeowner, and likely not face issues with the EPA or governing bodies. If a small amount of chem leaked into the pond, I doubt you would have a serious effect. But it would be best to initiate a conversation with the owner first.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Bryan,

    I know this is not what you want to hear, but this is the truth. There is no attempted cover up here.

    After nine years in this business, I've realized there is no one cure for all that ails.

    I've washed a LOT of houses, and tried MANY different chems, searching for the holy grail of gutter cleaners.

    Every gutter streak is different. Old gutters that have had streaks for a long time can be very stubborn to clean. I think that the stain permiates right into the paint on the gutters. Or maybe the paint oxidizes to the point that the staining gets locked in. I'm not sure exactly what the reason is that some gutters are so troubling.

    I've had some that I could not get clean. I felt like using anything stronger was going to damage the finish.

    Maybe 1/4 of the time, gutter zap is truly touchless. Most require a little agitation with a brush. I've got a 20' extension pole that reaches to most all 2nd story gutters. Single story homes are a cinch to brush, so I figure to brush all gutters anyway, and if I luck out and get one that cleans touchless, then that's great.

    Be careful of what chems you use to clean gutters. What goes up, must come down. Some of the ingrediants can be carcinogenic. I would always recommend checking out the MSDS to be sure you understand what you are using, and how to protect yourself.

    For myself, I prefer to brush a little rather than use more toxic, potentially carcinogenic chemicals. But that's just me.

    Other opinions will vary.

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