Aplus
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Posts posted by Aplus
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Squeeky clean gutters.
Even though I pre-wet everything before I began, I still got super clean spots on all the aluminum trim. So after the gutters were clean, I went ahead and sprayed cleaner on the trim and did it all. The homeowner could not believe her eyes.
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So many times I have customers tell me that no one has been able to get their gutters to look good again. I can tell they are apprehensive when I tell them I can do it.
Well as they say, the proof is in the pudding.....have a look see.
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From what I can tell with my four machines, the one that has an accumulator seems to be smoother. There is virtually no vibration in the hose. It seems to be less fatiguing to operate.
These are my observations only.
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I think the reason some manufacturers don't include dampners is because of the competition for low price. When you pay less dollars what do you expect?
Also, they always supply 50' of hose, and that's not a problem.
Everyone needs to do their homework. If you don't know what you need, then you better establish a good working relationship with a quality distributor.
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Morgan,
Where in my post did I knock you for the products you like? Or that I mix anything in my trailer?
The spills inside have occured from caps not being threaded on tight enough, or something shifting around, or what not. Once I had a hold down strap break that holds down one of the powerwashers, and it tipped over, puncturing a gallon of liquid oxalic. What a mess.
All I was doing is stating MY preference for mixing dry chems at each jobsite, that's all.
Everyone has ways they prefer to do things, and it's not for me to say which is right, and which is wrong.
Good luck with however you choose to do things.
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Ron,
I have not used the limonlene before, so I don't know how to compare. But, in the emulsifier plus, there are chunks of what appear to be (and smell like) a citrus based product. Looking at the MSDS, there are ingrediants indicated as proprietary and not identified, but they are stated to be non hazardous. I think those proprietary ingrediants are citrus based.
What I can tell you is that when mixed with bleach, the mixture works superb. Far better than the home brew I was using before.
General grime and dirt just melts right off. Nearly every house I wash has some degree of mold or mildew on it, and the bleach removes that.
At this point I am very pleased, and have no intentions of trying something else. I have so many pails and barrels of chemicals that I have no room to try anything else right now.
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If for no other reason, I like HD-80 over other products because it is in powder form.
I would rather mix it up with water on the jobsite, rather than lug around the extra weight of something in liquid form.
Plus, anybody who's been doing this awhile knows how spills can happen inside your rig, it just does every so often. It's easier to sweep up a powder than deal with a liquid spill.
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I was using Emulsifier Plus from espec, mixed with bleach.
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Today, I washed a home, and it was really windy out. To make a long story short, some of my soap solution apparently blew in the wind and landed on a couple windows. I didn't see it until it had already dried.
Well, I tried Windex, vinegar, alcohol, and ammonia, and nothing would remove the white marks. It would look like they were coming off when wet, but as the window dried, the streaks showed back up.
The solution turned out to be Soft Scrub, the pasty stuff in the squeeze bottle. Squirted some on a soft cloth, buffed it onto the glass, and the streaks came right off!
Soft Scrub will now be in my arsenal of tools.
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If you're not sure which hoses needs to be diverted, look for the one coming off the unloader, and going to the pump. It will be connected with hose clamps, because it is not high pressure.
All other hoses will be connected with high pressure machined crimps. Don't touch these.
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Direct Safety has a nice selection of the Tyvek suits, and I've found them to be competitevly priced.
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Ron,
Yes, the skid came from Mark. When I ordered that skid, I discussed with Mark that I didn't want anything skimped on. I selected all the components on the machine, but Mark told me about the accumulator. I don't really know the specifics of exactly how it works, but I can say that I run 150 foot all the time. I've learned to appreciate the flow actuated unloader, and I notice there is no vibration or pulsation in the hose.
There is a much smoother feel than on my smaller cold water rigs.
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The tops of the awnings were pretty much faded from the sun, but the customer was happy that all the mold was gone. There were spots that had to be over an 1/8" thick! And the white piping showed up a lot nicer once cleaned.
Does anyone have thoughts as to whether a cloth awning like this could be recolored, so it doesn't look so faded?
If it had been vinyl, I would have applied armor all, or something similar, to make it shine, but I didn't think that would be a good idea on the cloth.
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I deal with two different independant agents, and both have told me that many insurance companies are pulling out of the pressure washing biz.
My policy is currently thru Employers Mutual Company (EMC) and I hope it gets renewed.
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I have an All American hot water skid, and it was outfitted with a dampner. That, plus a flow actuated unloader makes for a smooth experience.
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After.....
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Lots of nasty mold growing on these fabric awnings. It was thicker and tougher than I hoped it would be. I had to do some hand scrubbing to get the desired results.
Bleach did most of the work, but there was still crud left behind that the brush handled.
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Mark,
Seems like you have a good handle on it. That's the way I do it too. I do a lot of work at a nearby condo complex that has upper and lower decks. They are all uniform size and construction.
The real pains are when refinishing the upper but not the lower. Then we have to do a lot of tarping, and like you said, you still have to be real careful, because sometimes a little stripper weasles under the tarp and bums you right out.
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On the bottom front and back, I have pieces of angle iron screwed to the floor to stop the tank from sliding around.
I have factory installed D-Rings in the floor, with ratchet type straps going over the tank to hold it down. It seems to secure the tanks very well. Of course, in the unthinkable event that the trailer should overturn, all bets for secureness are off.
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The bottom of the gun should have a q/c installed, not a plug. The flow of water should go into a q/c, not out of it.
Also, are you using the black or brown o-rings? The brown ones seem to be a little more resistant to heat and chems.
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I've got a 330 gallon rectangular water tank. When I fill it up, it bulges out quite a bit. Does anybody use a metal or wire frame around their tank to help retain the shape?
I'm wondering if the longevity or safety of a tank would be improved with some kind of frame in place.
Any thoughts?
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I use a thread on bowl type filter between my tank and washer. On the supply hose, I use a washer/screen filter.
I have not had any problems with this set up so far.
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One quick point. Ball valves come in two styles, full port, which you need and don't have, and the reducing style, which you have, and don't want.
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Earl,
I agree with Ron. Don't worry about how others are doing it. Find out the right way. The local office of the EPA would be your best starting point.
let's talk about set-up's
in Tools, Equipment & Basic Maintenance
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BE
Two are flow, and two are pressure. I have read somewhere that flow unloaders wear out and fail more often than pressure activated unloaders. The washers that I use for decks are both pressure activated because I'm standing on the ground.
The machines for everything else are flow, because sometimes I'm not standing on the most ideal surfaces, and I don't want sudden kicks to cause me to lose balance.