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Posts posted by Aplus
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I have a long pole.
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The only way is to have a pest control company come out and spray the house for spiders. I have several customers whose houses I wash every spring, then they have the pest control company apply the spider spray.
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I brush chems on the gutters. Xjetting wastes too much and is too hard to control.
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It always amazes me when someone tears up a deck that bad. It's not like you can't see what's going on......
And gee, do all homeowner grade p/w come only with a 0 tip?
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I've never used the stuff. I guess you'll find out tomorrow how it works, because you're not going to have time to go any other route. Let us know how it works, and take plenty of pics if you can.
Good Luck.
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I find it best to apply the soap to the side of the house, and while it's dwelling, deal with the gutters. THat way, don't have to worry about any of the gutter cleaner causing streaks on the siding.
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OK Ron, if the tire marks are from a burnout, then how do you remove them?
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I guess every region has different pests to deal with. Probably the best way to deal with wood boring, or any pests for that matter is to seek the advice of a local pest control pro, who is familiar with the pests in your area.
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Deck floors take a massive amount of abuse. It really doesn't matter what finish you put on them it will require frequent maintenance to keep a deck looking good.
If that were the case, we should all use the least expensive products available.
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Was there a flower pot or planter box on top? Mold can grow from the moisture and drainage water that would drain out.
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I agree with Reed 100%
Well stated!!
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Keep in mind with any of the rigs you mention, you will need a water tank. Many residential plumbing lines won't provide 8-9 gpm.
With that in mind, for washing residential concrete and pavers, I'd say 6 gpm @3000 is adequate. It provides good cleaning power, and uses less water, which may allow you to operate portable or off a trailer, with only a garden hose hookup.
Something to think about.
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They're all good, but some folks will have personal preferences. I have or have had, all three you mention, with no problems to report.
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Depends on what you intend to clean. Any of the models you list would provide good service in the proper situations.
For the prices you quote, they must be cold water, which in my opinion, has limited capabilities compared to hot water.
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My experience with F18 has been that I had to mix in extremely high ratios to get the results I was looking for, which made the product expensive to use.
Not saying it isn't good, just that when comparing the price per square foot, it is on the expensive side.
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I missed it too!!! Happy Belated Birthday Rod!!!
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IF it's not far out of the way, I'll try to always squeeze in even a small job. Sometimes I just do those myself, at the end of a day to keep my costs low. You never know the good will a particular job will generate.
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So are those things poisonous, or do they just look that way?
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I've been using Ready Seal for about five years now. I have always been able to call Pierce, and have my stain in about 3-4 business days. I don't have to worry about shortages, formula changes, or anything of the sort.
When Wood Tux gets to the point where the distribution and formulations are reliable, I may give it a try. Until then, no.
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I have two....both Steel Eagles. 1 30" two bar, and a 16" floater. I like them both and each has it's own uses.
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I'll keep my bowtie with the automatic. What the heck do I want to shift gears all the time for?
I like to put it in drive and go.
It's also nice to start my truck in the driveway every morning without waking up the neighbors. And the stink....forget about it.
If the day comes I need a diesel, I'll get one, but until then, gas works for me.
Behr disaster on cedar deck
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
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If he wanted it recoated with solid, I would have done it, afterall his money was on the table. Just make sure to note on the estimate there is no guarantee on homeowner washed deck.