danster

Thanks Russ. But maybe I'll get lucky and somebody around here might have one parked on a shelf somewhere. I know they are antiques but they were a good pump. The part I really need is the disks in the valves that are used up. Dan

Like the title says. I'm looking for parts for a T4031 by General. This is an older pump (approx. 20 years old). Its a 5800 psi, 6.6 gal/min. It says on the tag that RPM is 1000rpm and needs 25hp to run. I've been running it with a 40hp diesel for about 10 years. I am looking for a packing kit and the valves. Here are a couple of pictures. you may contact me by private message or at ateam@nb.aibn.com Thanks, Dan

There is no sticker or embossed plates on it. That's why I'm wondering which model pump it is so I can order the parts. It does look like an Admiral doesn't it? Thanks for the input guys. If anybody else know please do tell. The gentleman that sold it to me said it was a T- something (big help....LOL) Dan

Hey guys. Bought this pump at a garage sale for 10 bucks. The ceramic pistons are broken and needs packings. But there is no tags on it to say which model pump it is. All I know its a General pump, 3000 psi, 4 gpm direct drive pump. Does anybody know which model this is????? [ATTACH]12971[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]12972[/ATTACH] Thanks for any imput. Dan

Congrats on your purchase. If you have any other questions on diesels you can go to various diesel sites. My favorite is thedieselgarage.com where there are a lot of vendors and lots of gear heads. A lot of information. There is also thedieselstop.com, you might even find Scott S. from this site over there too. That is where we first got in contact with each other. Best of luck. Dan

The 2003 6.0 diesel's along with 2004 were problematic with Ford. A lot of people had injector problems and head gaskets and other various issues. Check the history of the truck at a dealer if the injectors and head gaskets have been done. If yes, it would be good, if not, its a matter of time before you get your wallet out. My 2003 had computer problems, it had to be reprogrammed almost every two months by the dealer, but I did have one of the first ones out. When I sold it, I knew that the head gaskets were shot and I had two faulty injectors, but it was still under warranty so the new buyer had it done. My 2006 is an absolute dream, wouldn't want anything else. I did have a F350 so it is a little lighter than the F450 and it is geared differently. I had high speed rear end (3.73) and I was averageing 14mpg city and 19mpg highway. I was chipped and was putting down over 400 HP on the pavement so the linkage at the kneecap would freeze up sometimes and kept the accelerator pedal to the floor, so it could be a little lower than that at times :lgbounces Dan

Its not a common thing around these parts. I went to a demo last year and was really impress with its ability to clean. They performed test on a lot of different stuff and one was to remove paint from wood and it didn't damage it. They were really trying to sell me one since I was the best prospect at that demo but it didn't really suit my needs at the present time. I have just hooked up with a very large worldwide food company and I might be looking at the machine now if they continue to give me work. At the time the blaster was I believe around 22 grand. Pretty steep but if there is enough work to warrant the expense I might go for it. But I could really see it as the best solution to your problem. You only need one complaint to an environmental agency and they will be on your A** faster than you can say "My fine is WHAT???" lol you can google "dry ice blasting or blaster" and you will have tons of info Good luck Dan

None taken...lol I started a painting job about 3 months ago in a larger city in my province. At any rate I do cleaning and painting all over the maritime provinces (New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and sometimes in Quebec). Anyways, I rarely go to this city because the biggest industrial painters are from there and the competition is stiff. So I win this job contract and I'm painting away. Another job is awarded on site to another local contractor, which I was nervous to work side by side with him because they have been in business a long time and I always thought they were a big company. His job consited to paint the structural steel of a building that was 80 wide and 460 long and 50 high. The steel was dirty so he had to wash. I almost busted a gut when I saw his pressure washers - two karcher machines probably 2000 psi and 1.5 gallons per minute that you can get on special for $100 bucks. I could not believe my eyes. And they have been in business for 40 years + So I guess a little hick town boy like me really can match up to the big city boys... lol My wash rig is a 5 ton with 24 ft box. Two 4000 psi, 4gpm and a 5800 psi, 6.6 gpm. Also rigged up to attached two other portable pumps at 3000psi and 4 gpm. A 300000 BTU hot box. Have about 2500 ft of hoses and a 1100 gallons epoxy lined steel tank. I always thought I had a small rig...lol Dan

Another option is to get a contractor with a Dry Ice Blaster. Then all you have to worry about is the paint chips but you could collect by a tarp under the deck. Dry Ice will evaporate almost instantly and leave you a new clean wood without damage. And wouldn't get you in trouble with any environmental agencies... Just my 2 cents Dan

Rustoleum products are crap. If you want to have a good floor contact a floor coating company or contact an industrial paint supplier like PPG Industrial coatings, Benjamen Moore Industrial, ICI Devoe coatings, International Courtaulds and many more. Ask any of there representatives and I'm sure they will be happy to help you out. Just don't cheap out because its expensive, remember, you get what you paid for.. As for the tire marks its called hot tracking, its happens especially after driving and the tire is still hot, the dye in the tire will transfer to the coating. (FACT)Rubber in its raw form is white, dye is added to make the tire black. You can try a good degreaser and a little elbow grease and rinse, it might come off. If it does, get your floor nice and clean, scuff it up and rinse again and apply either a epoxy clear or a urethane clear, both are two component industial coatings. Again don't cheap out because its expensive. Dan

I totally agree. They were in violation of OSHA. Lockouts are a must when working in machinery. I know if I were to work in or around machinery is not locked out at my clients I would lose my job so fast that I wouldn't even be able to say " But......" There is zero tolerance on our jobsites for this kind of stuff. Machinery is dangerous and only takes a few minutes to put a lock but you will have to live a lifetime without a limb if you don't. Dan

When I first bought this company ten years ago, my wash truck was set up like this. It had two Cat pumps (3000psi w/ 4gpm) with 7.5 hp electric motors. Everything was running off a 15 KW genset. It ran the motors, a water pump to keep the pressure steady because one pressure washer was mounted on top of the other so gravity was out of the question. It worked great, but an expensive setup for nothing, but the former owner of the company had everything on hand so he just built this setup. The truck burnt and insurance paid so I now have two general pumps with 4gpm, 4000psi with 18hp Honda's. Also have a 5800psi, 6.6 gpm with a 38hp Lombardini diesel all in the back of my truck. BTW its in back of a 5 ton with a 24 ft box. My advice if you want portable, don't go electric. ITS NOT WORTH IT. You won't save any money on fuel, the genset take up quite a bit of fuel to run plus its very expensive if you want a good reliable one. Then.....well I won't go into repairs... Dan

I bought mine from Dultmeier. Cost around $1500 for an oil fired, 12 volt system. The pressure washer I use for it is a 4000psi 4gpm and works fine but it does have a 20 amp charging system on the pressure washer. But you can always hook it up to a car battery and then charged thru your vehicle system. Been working like that for almost 7 years without any hitch because of wiring. Mine was made by Allied Mfg. http://www.alliedpressurewashers.com/images/Big_images/Hot_box_new.jpg Dan

Been there, done that. Had to remove coil to change out insulation. The bottom part was still soaked in fuel and it was just fried. I cleaned the outside of the coil and in between to remove all the soot and inspected the coil thouroughly. Everthing seemed fine. I have been recirculating CLR for almost 3 hours now and seems to be improving. I will let it sit in the coil overnight to see and run the circulation pump in the morning to see if it dislodges. Oh! it must have gotten real hot. It was around 25 deg Farenheit outside and I had a 300 ft of hose and about 200 ft of it was on the ground and I was getting steam at the gun. It was great though, I was thawing out a truck scale, you should have seen the ice melt. Too bad its not like that all the time lol I think I will get another boiler and put them insync and get steam when I want some. It cleans like you wouldn't believe. The only thing I'll need new hose and gun to take that kind of temp. Dan

What do you guys use to clean your coil for hot water. A couple of weeks ago I hade a fire in my boiler. The boiler is a 12 Volt stand alone hot box. My voltage got too low for it to fire but some fuel went in the chamber and soaked the insulation. The boiler ignited again and "Poof" we had a fire. Also had plenty of hot water for a little while, was even getting it to steam with 300 ft of hose....oops. Anyways, now the coil seem to be clogged up. Whenever I plug the pressure to it I barely have anything at the other end. I figure that it got very hot and some calcium deposit or something is plugging the coil. It doesn't leak and seem in very good condition upon inspection but it just seems plugged. I usually used CLR and just run it thru a little pump and have it recirculate thru the coil for an hour or so and it would clean the pipe real good. This time it doesn't seem to work. Have any ideas or suggestions. Thanks in advance for any input. Dan