a68cudas

Hello this is regarding my mothers house. She doesnt have an actual basement. This room is 14x14 underground and is next to back porch, The sump went and water filled in. I got all water out and new sump working in crock. There is alot of orange hard water sediment on cement floor and very damp. The room has no heat. Someone has to get room dry for insurance company before cleanup can happen. Does anyone on here run into flood damage cleanup like this? How did you go about drying the room so you could start pressure wash clean up reseal and paint? Any idea how muchit would cost for drying a non heated once flooded 14x14 room? If i do the work i was thinking of running torpedo heater fan and dehumidifyer after floor is sqeegied but i have no clue what to charge the ins company for the work in drying room? Any suggestions? Location is rural N E Ohio. Anyone ever did this type work done before have an idea what a company would charge to come out and dry up room so i can get the ok from ins company to clean and seal? I think i will at least sqeege the floor and get wet sediment off so whom ever dries this either being meequipment to dry can be brought in without causing more of a mess and or elec hazard. Any guidance and or help in this matter is greatly appreciated by my mother and I. Thank You

what can be used for removing soot on outside of brick chimney? would you use a degreaser on the soot? Is there a product out there that is made especially for chimney soot cleaning Thanks

What are the major pros and cons between semi transparent vs solid stains? which do you prefer to use and why?

Well been working on this deck and i tested with hot batch of hd-80 and seem to strip good in the cpl places i tried. I have applied hd-80 hot batches 3 batches with dwell times of 1 hour apiece and i cant seem to get all stain off flatwork. The spindles are another story i cant hardly get any to budge??? I kept areas wet once applied through whole process. Alot of the stain is embeded in the wood grain? What are my options now for this deck? The stain must have been oil based as my test spots showed where stain was emulsifying within 15 min or so in the areas i tested the areas tesed were where the stain looked like it was on pretty well... what can i do now?

Thank you all for your help. Talked to owner today and told him how much it would cost to sand down bad spots and prime bare wood to prep for a solid of cabots and then he gives me the sad song and dance about how for that much money he could have new deck built which i know is B/S and then he remembers what was put on it Olympic acrylic/ latex solid stain color copper henna. So now im just gonna hit some bad spots with sanding, and reapply that same nasty acrylic latex that was on there before in same ugly reddish color. I prefer cabots but this works for me as it will deff match up with whats on there.

Hey i never had to do sanding as bad as on this deck. and im not sure what to charge for sanding the heavier areas. can you guys share what you charge for sanding so i dont low ball myself on what to charge to sand... thanks other question is all i have are a couple of old orbital sanders should i get something else to sand with? any help greatly appreciated

Thanks for all the replies. I might try one more app of hd-80 boosting it with something and see if i can get the rest off the main deck. the rails are a done deal that stuff what ever it is is adhered way to well on them so for rail and spindle its gonna have to be some acrylic solid going over those. If i can get rest off main deck then try go with solid oil on. im gonna get a sample or two of cabots and see how it will cover over pigmented areas if not then sand more prime bare boards and solid acrlic over all of it... really dont have to much of choice here...

made the HD-80 at 8 oz per gallon. was told product was olympic but owner not sure. Left HD-80 on for a little over an hour dwell time each time 3 times keeping it wet while dwelling. I meant 8 oz per gallon miss typed and put 6 which was incorrect

are you saying sand to smooth out stain that didn' t come out, and reapply with solid? Sand with orbital? belt sander? can floor sander be used on decks? i know i used one for house flooring before? How do you guys charge for sanding when a job turns out like this by the hour or set price for entire job? Reason i ask is ive never had any really major sanding projects till now? Thanks

Where can i get Boost or Hangtime additive for HD80 at???? Thanks

What can you do to keep sticks twigs and other debree off of concrete drive etc that you are sealing while you seal it? any suggestions on how some of you do this? what do you do if something falls on part you just sealed? any suggestions or input greatly appreciated

Was wondering if you guys could tell me what you tend to charge to clean wash cement drives, walkways, patios what chemicals do you use to clean with. What about blacktop drives do you use same pricing guidlines or diff rate what about chems? whats the worst thing to try and get out or off of cement? Figure ill run into alot of rust or discoloration from leaves, read where oxalic will work for rust what else is it good for? Im sure some of you guys get jobs to clean drives walks patio etc and then the owner wants it sealed. what sealers do you redommend for cement work and what do you charge on average to seal a drive walkway or patio? Thanks any information will be greatly appreciated

Hello Have to look at deck this afternoon owner says he put thompsons on few years back and had some guy last year put olympic on. said that he didnt know if the old thompsons was stripped off or if olympic was put right on over top. Says the rail and spindles are holding up but that was failing bad on deck itself. I bought some HD80 but havent tried yet have any of you used this product on decks that had multiple layers of stain and sealer on and how well does it work? My other question is what types of sealer do you all recommend using instead of crappy thompsons? As for the stain i like using cabots have had good results with their stain which is far more better than olympic. Ill take pics if i can remember to take camera with.

Well forgot camera as i was running late. Deck is 3 teer 35x35 a 14x 10 and a 12x10 ugly red solid olympic stain. Have no idea why some people pick some god awfull colors to stain with.... done test spot with mild batch of hd80 mix and stripped it with no problems, hit it with citric brightner after to neutralize...taking estimate back out tomorrow and dropping it off.

Well forgot camera as i was running late. Deck is 3 teer 35x35 a 14x 10 and a 12x10 ugly red solid olympic stain. Have no idea why some people pick some god awfull colors to stain with.... done test spot with mild batch of hd80 mix and stripped it with no problems. taking estimate back out tomorrow and dropping it off.

Hey was wondering what products as in strippers do you all use and whats your favorites to use and why? was also wondering how you go about doing a test area when your out giving estimates? I bought some HD80 but have yet to try it also got some of citric brightner as well that i need to try.

have a multi deck job to do. one deck is redwood with some boards replaced with regular wood. one deck is treated wood and a walkway to one deck that is redwood also. these all have been stained one coat with a sherwin williams acrylic latex solid stain. the stain is a grey color. there are alot of flower beds and plants around areas to strip all decks are to be stripped and restained. some of the areas on the decks and walkway are allready pealing from just last years stain. she wants the decks restained with cabots and a similar solid grey stain but i do believe that its going to be oil based. what stripper should i use to strip and what neutralizer should i follow up with after stripping and also and suggestions on cleanup etc because of all the flower beds and plants around the deck areas? any special care that is needed for staining and stripping redwood? any info greatly appreciated

what do you do when a customer keeps trying to beat you down in price? started a job but not stripping gave her a price for stripping + staining? ends up being acrylic latex so agreed on washing sanding to level areas failing out prime and reaply acrylic? since not sealing giving her the wash + restain price. she keeps on trying to beat me down in price after the fact of quoting her on both. and also done a cpl add ons that she griped about in price saying " well the guy i had last time washed everything for $300.00" but if the last guy was so detailed in his work and good and such a great price then why didnt she have him do it this time? i feel that my prices are resonable for the area in which i do work at. .50 sq ft to wash .75 sq ft to stain and .85 sq ft to strip have roughly 1000 sq ft of deck work no spindles ( thank god) and 10 steps. my price for strip, brighten and stain was $1577.00 and the quote for just wash and reaply solid was $1250.00 then i done a huge arbor on one side of house 40 ft long for $150.00 she complained about price $200.00 to wash brighten and stain about 200 ft of landscaping timbers and a huge triangular planter i threw in doing the brick walk ways becuase of all the other work. and screwed my self on doing 40 ft of 2 inch tubular metal railing for $75.00 that has multi layers of paint etc on and took a good 2 days of scraping sanding and applying stripper that is suppose to strip 7-9 layers of paint off ( yea right) now she is trying to beat me down in price because of differnece in not stripping and since applying solid acrylic latex again over the preped decks and not going to use as much since its a solid etc etc etc .. have any of you come across a customer who is always trying to beat you down in price who thinks pressure washing is like aiming a squirt gun and pissin on something real quick then done or who doesnt understand the labor and craftsmanship that goes into every inch of effort when someone takes pride in what they do and do the job right. just would like some feedback from any of you who have ran into people like this and what you did to handle the situation or what i should do. people like this really aggrivate me .

is the rule of thumb that you can put oil based stain over acrlic latex stain but not acrylic latex over oil?

so its opposit for stain then ? i had cubbords in kitchen that needed painting didnt have enough to buy new ones and applied latex over oil based and it chipped . i thought for paint that latex will chip etc if put over oil based but u can put oil based over latex with no probs ?. so with stain prime with oil then latex over that for finish coat. do you have to prime with oil? can you prime with latex and latex stain over for finish coat? another question. can u apply latex over latex primer if not then what do they make latex primers for? and why is oil primer better primer for latex finish. what about strictly paint do u have to use an oil based primer when using acylic latex?

i know its the wrong place to post but have no clue where to post this.

curious on what are some dos and donts for using HD-80? saftey precautions? respirator goves clothing etc? and what should you use tarp plastic etc for useing when stripping decks etc? also what to use when stripping decks that are close or connected to houses that are wood and stained as well so that you dont strip the house and only the deck? any info greatly appreciated

thank you i will take a look at that site

what about using plastic for around wood stained houses? wont it eat through the plastic? is there anything else to use besides plastic to mask off areas adjacent to house? what is a good respirator to use? thanks for your help can you let me know about the cpl new questions i just asked

is there any way to test a finish to find out if it is an oil based, latex or acrylic latex finish?