sflasealcoating

All depends on your location.... southern states where pavers have been around a while, prices may be very competitive. Up north where pavers are slowly catching on, you may be able to get more. Just figure this as a base. 1 5 gallon of sealer you should be able to get between 700-850 sq ft rolling. Price of sealer varies but take 100.00 as a sample. Now figure you come across 1500 sq ft driveway. I know i will need 2 5 gallons of sealer @ 100.00 = 200.00 +chems+gas Say you charge .40 psf on 1500 sq ft thats 600.00 - 200.00 + 20 chems + 50.00 gas. 600-270 = 330.00 profit should give you a starting point

Have you ever gone back and seen what happens to sand after a few monthes to a year? Let me explain. Whether using a water based product or solvent base product, when applied over sand, you may have a total penitration into said sand of about 2-4 maybe cm at best. Over time pavers shift, they are desgned this way. You also have some erosion or evacuation of underlying joint sand. Now you have a bridge of sand 2-4 cm thick with nothing under to support it. Pavers shift, sand cracks and now looks like broken concrete in your joints. Techniseal actually has some pictures of this on their web site. If you have to have hard joints, use a stablizing or poly sand that is made for this job. Been there done that, have learn from years of experience and have been in the paver business since 1996 and sealing since 2001. Ive messed up my share of driveways through trial and error, and had to go back and fix the problems. This unfortunately is one i see all to well.

Im a certified techniseal installer here in sfla. Although they make a good product its very expensive so I blend my own sealer. I would never recommend using a water based sealer on pavers or concrete. Few key poiints. #1 The only time we use water base products is on non porous surfaces such as travertine and other marbles. #2 We Surface clean every job ( regardless of what you will learn in the techniseal course ) wands do not clean pavers effectively of concrete dust, lime ect especially not garden hoses.#3 During the process of cleaning you should lose a few cm of sand. You should have no problem with joint sand even using a 3/4 nap roller which we use for every job.#4 Always sand AFTER sealing not before.....sealer is not meant to be a glue to bond sand together regardless of what you may hear. #5 If you want to stabalize the joints, use a poly sand which techniseal makes or belguard.#6 If you have to spray sealer on use a low pressure sprayer....pump up ect Not an airless or paint sprayer. To much pressure for a thin product such as sealer and airrates the sealer to much. This will leave you with lines and more sealer in the air than on the pavers. That should about cover it :)

Any newly installed job, even if it has no efflo, has concrete dust from cutting, portland or concrete dust from pouring the edges sometimes that all needs to be removed. On old jobs with or without sealer I still apply a phosphoric. 5-10% through chem injector and wand.

Hey, I tell customers to wait 30 days. As previous sales rep for Paver Systems, a large manufacture here in Florida, i can confidentely say that most primary and secondary efflo in our climate will leach out rather quickly. Most pavers sit in the manufacturing yards for about a month or so before they even make it to a job site. Unless its a custom order, which you wouldnt usually run into unless its commercial. Keep it safe 30 days. And you should acid prep every job you do especially a new install.

By oil base i assume u mean Solvent based colored concrete stain. Basically and colored sealer. Dads will work as well as other stripping products,,,,,, The ONLY problem with chemically stripping any color base product is it turns into a runny nasty paste and WILL re harden like gum and is a b&*ch to get off. I would do small sections at a time get completly clean then work your way up the driveway.

Blah citris cleaner!.......... Its soooo enviroment friendly ....... Good stuff ;)

Pm Me i Have very nice formula u can use to cleant that off :)

Dads is in abundance down here and all we buy is 5 galls...... yes wear a resperator and do NOT let it touch your skin or you will be soprry...i have a few chemical burn scars from using it. However..... its the only way to remove clear seal the right way. Apply...scrub....let sit for a few minutes then wash off.... if you have an 8 gpm 3500 psi or higher you should be able to get all sealer off with surface cleaner... If you have a smaller machine it may take you much longer.

Im speaking of water base products as well as xylene,touline based acrylic products. And this is Specifically for CLAY brick. Take a look at a true Old chicago old newyork ect there are about 25 different orginal makers of the bricks dating back to the late 1700's in US. Real old chicago brick is freighted in to south florida and other states and a majority of it can be from 50-to over 100 years old and is Already brittle. There are so many pores in a clay brick its like trying to seal a sponge. With the moisture content in the air as well as many lots here in florida the bedding sand, mason or gunite can be moist for months even during our 100 degree summers.

Go ahead and do it and call me in a year and let me know howeverthing looks... Ive been in the brick paver business for over 10 years including sales and installation for brick america we manufactured bricks here in south florida and have yet to find ANYTHING that wont turn white on clay (not from freeze/thaw from moisture content and 50-90% humidity practically year round in florida) or make brittle after multiple applications this includes water base sealers. If it works for you and the homeowners happy then great but I wouldnt recommend it to any of my customers and you asked for opinions so take from them what you will.

Do not seal Clay Brick you will be sorry lol. Ive been working with a few companies to make a water based brick product but none so far have worked without turning white over time. Clay is very porous and holds lots of moisture and most brick manufacturures dont condone sealing anyway. Makes Clay brittle.

I would price around .40 .........30 may be cutting yourself short if youve never doen a job like this.

Hey, Ive been in the same situation as you many times...... Construction should still be evrywhere up north your way..... I would contact home builders and construction companies.....paver installers to ask if they ned SITE cleanup sooo many do.... Also if i were you id look into paver sealing ...concrete staining ....theres always going to be a need for that.

Wow 3.00 per square ft? if they r going to pay for it then great! lol @ 14,000 sq ft your going to need about 16-17 5 gallons of stain. @ just say 100.00 per 5 so your looking @ 1700.00 for stain... acids gas ect.... i dont know how much u think is good lol But i can usually clean and seal 14k in 2 days even @ .50 psf you should be making 3000+ profit. I would say your at least 2-2.50 psf to high lol Y would you go from .08 to 3.00 lol I will assume that you meant .30 and put the decimal in the wrong spot.