turbonyg
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Posts posted by turbonyg
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Tracy,
The only contact that I have had with you now is 2 pms from you and now this reply all vaguely pitching your product.
You have now excluded yourself from ever receiving an order of any kind from me. I also would like no further pms or replys from you in my topics since all they are, are sales posts.
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I don't have a formula, I just look at the prebuilt units. It seems the 4gpm usually have a 13hp, 6gpm 18hp, and 8gpm 24hp gas engines. Based on knowing the torque numbers of these and yours you can probably be close enough.
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What do we do, wait till summer and not work all spring? Weather was only 30% chance which relates to its not going to rain, at least always has until this time.
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Didn't realize that. Last time I looked them up online I thought they were about $150.00.
Beth n Rod reacted to this -
I got lucky, no water spots.
I still need to invest in a moisture meter. Haven't started doing enough decks yet to warrant getting one.
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Thanks Beth. That's the answer I was hoping for.
How long after can I wait to recoat? Everything is wet this morning, with possible chances of rain today and tomorrow,
Beth n Rod reacted to this -
What kind of mess am I in for tomorrow?
Finished the second coat of A/C stain on a customer deck late this evening then about an hour or so later it rained enough to wet about my home deck about 80% then stopped. Now about an hour/half after that, its starting to sprinkle again.
Thanks for any input on what to expect and how to fix it.
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Beth n Rod reacted to this -
Beth,
Just getting into staining I do not have a known amount of time for these projects to go by. Until last year I only cleaned decks, never stained. The handful I did last year I had talked to Shane on and he would give me a close estimate to what it would take him to do (time, and what kind of prep), then I would factor in 30-50% more time for me to accomplish and work out the price from there so I would make money on the job but not overcharge the customer for my learning curve.
Rod,
I do factor a lot of that stuff in already as that is what I do with house washing. When I started doing that I kinda of shot from the hip on pricing until I learned how long some of the different style houses were going to take and how much travel time is involved.
I may have to do the same with the deck pricing, but it seems like I have a lot higher chance of being off on the estimates do to having a lot things to use up time that may not have been accounted for.
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It's vinyl siding.
What percentage do you usually build into costs for everything except the stain?
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How would you go about tackling this. It's a clean and recoat.
I did one last year that was similar but wasn't as high and didn't have the patio below, just rock. I used a ladder to climb over the rail so I would not have to go through the home and it was all very light carpet. I applied the stain by brush to help with drips and running. That one took about a total of 3 hours on site in 2 trips to clean and stain.
How much extra would you get for taping and plastic of all the lower area?
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When I got back into house washing a couple years ago the guys I was working with were using the Limonene and E-Plus. It was ridiculous how long and how much effort it was taking to remove all the organic growth on the houses. After the 3rd house I was done with it. I switched to Simple Cherry, then when it was released mid last year switched to Elemonator both in a 12.5% SH mix. The houses instantly started being cleaned easier and looked better.
I have found the Limonene does a decent job on the fleets I wash.
There are only 2 reasons I have found for people trying to avoid the use of SH. 1, they do not understand it (which can be solved with research), or 2, they are trying to sell you a chemical and the only way they can do it is by bashing the only thing that truly works. -
Nothing yet. It's for a city agency so I don't expect anything until it becomes a rush job. So if you have an suggestions I still open to hearing them.
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There is no set drain point and the floor is relatively flat looking from what I could see. The plan was to have a second person running a shop vac or pump.
They want the whole interior (walls, ceilings, beams) washed down to wash off all of the surface dirt/cobwebs etc that will come off. I do not have to do a normal style wood cleaning, basically a soft wash like would be done on a home exterior.
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The customer wants it washed to give a "clean rustic look". If things lighten up a little it will be fine, but I don't expect it to just doing a soap wash. It will be turned into an interperitve center / livery along the river. It's owned by the county.
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How would you guys approch cleaning the inside of this barn. They want all walls and ceiling washed and the cement floor degreased which looks like old motor oil stains.
It is roughly 33x22, 1/4 loft "ceiling" on each side of center with the center open. They are planning to leave it a rustic look interior and will be installing paneling on the lower walls and leaving the ceiling as is.
My thought for the wood is softwash it with house soap only to remove the dirt/dust/cobwebs, that way there would be little to no change in wood color.Any suggestions?
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Talked to the customer today. He ended up being ok with going with a semi-transparent after the little education.
I am looking at going with the A/C Cedar Semi. Anyone have pics of this on old PT pine?
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What does a clear stain/sealer do? just add oil to the wood to keep it from drying out further, but still lets it turn gray?
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If you keep our stain at room temperature before applying, you will have no problems. Call with questions, 1 209 541 6579 cell.
Based off of last years lisated temps, I need to plan for the 50* mark as about 1/2 the days were less (mid 40's) and the days warmer (mid 50-60) were scattered. Plus this property is about 500' off the Lake Michigan shore line.
We've stained exterior wood starting in the AM in the high 30's and into mid 40's in the PM a few times over the years. But this is using Ready Seal which is a 100% paraffin oil stain. Works OK, but only on very porous wood, such as old pressure treated SYP or spruce.The hard part of cold weather is getting the wood to dry out enough to a low moisture reading to apply any oil based exterior wood stain.
Rick,
I believe this is pressure treated pine. Some really dry and others look to be average with a couple looking newer. What moisture content is prefered and what is the most I can get away with for acceptable results?
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Shane, how "natural" does the cedar gold look? Could I mix that with the clear and still have UV protection?
Beth, what would you suggestion I offer to the customer that wants a "clear sealer" to give them the most natural look while having UV protection?
As far as temp goes, based off of last year I need to plan for the 50* mark as about 1/2 the days were less and the days warmer were scattered. Plus this property is about 500' off the Lake Michigan shore line.
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Looking for a clear stain/sealer to use on a handful of small townhouse decks.
So far it looks like it's between AC and Bakers.
Which would offer better UV protection?
Which would apply/dry better in 50*'s October weather?
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I have a property manager with townhouses that they want the decks cleaned and sealed on. The issue is I can't start on them until october when they are vacant for the season. Spring would be the same temps as well as rain, so that's probably a worst option.
Looking at last years weather it was mostly high 40's and low 50's.
The decks look dry enough that I think they will need 2 coats.
Decks are only about 125sq and only 1/2 have a single rail with spindles about 15'.
Any and all suggestions on best application methods would be greatly aprreciated.
Rain on fresh stain?
in Wood Cleaning & Restoration - Decks, Fences, etc.
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That's all fine and well, but my only experience with him here are basically "should have bought my stuff" and the handful of posts I looked at from him were basically "buy my stuff". I only searched his user name and looked at his profile topics before making this post to see if I could quickly find helpful informational post before making that comment, but a quick search didn't not find anything other than sales type comments.
Yes, he is pushing ready seal and doing so in a typical salesperson fashion. You are correct that he may present himself in a totally different fashion in person, but if you are going to try and sell your products through this medium, this is not the way to go about it.
As for not finding it in box stores, while that is true, I have yet to find A/C and Bakers in a store (even paint stores) either as I have looked to avoid having to order it in.