Norman99

Hi – Could really use your expert opinions I have a new cedar deck (about 500 sqft) that was installed too late last year to stain. I cleaned it before winter set in and let it sit. Obviously it weathered and grayed. No big deal right? Well I’ve cleaned it twice with Benjamin Moore Restore (10% Sodium Hydroxide, 5% Citric Acid) 5:1 ratio. There are still patches of gay on most of the boards. 1st cleaning was applied with a brush, sit 15min, and removed with a brush and garden hose. 2nd cleaning was applied with a sprayer, sit 30min, and removed with a brush and garden hose. What am I doing wrong? I’ve scrubbed a few boards hard enough to bring the fuzz up and tried a brightener on a couple of boards with no luck. I’m worried any stain applied will not look even over the gray patches not to mention would not likely adhere to this dead wood. Planning to try sprayer, 30min, remove with pressure washer (low setting) this evening Any help is greatly appreciated – can supply pics if needed Thanks, Mike

Actually, now that the area I did with the 3rd cleaning has had a little more drying time it doesn’t look too bad, Still a few gray patches, and a bit of fur where I got a little too close with the pressure washer. But, a light sanding seems to take both of these off. James, yes the wood did fur up a bit with the sodium hydroxide but only in places where I scrubbed a little too hard. Going to try a section with a chlorine based bleach this morning to see if that helps any. If not I’ll probably go the route of the 3rd cleaning and then try and find a 3M pad I and polisher at my local hardware (not holding breath)

Guys appreciate the replies, Well the 3rd cleaning went no better than the first two – pressure washing off the BM Restore proved no better. Still lots of gray patches. Wisely, I only did a small section. Dave, BM is a two step process but your right I had the chemical mixture mixed up. The Restore is 10% Sodium Hydroxide and 5% Silicic Acid solution. After that you apply the Brightener \ Neutralizer 10% Oxalic Acid and 5 % Citric Acid. James, so if I understand correctly, some of the wood is essentially not “dead” enough to be removed with chemical? Is the 3M buffing pad the one used in floor polishers and would I use it wet or dry? Also, will it actually remove the remaining gray patches or will it only smooth it out enough for staining? If the latter is the case I’m concerned about the look and endurance. Also, do you mean I should have initially used a chlorine based bleach instead of an oxygen based bleach (sodium hydroxide)? Thanks again guys. Sorry for all the follow-up questions but I’m kind of at wits end here. Mike