J.P.

That would be cheaper and easier. I don't know why I thought bleach was a no/no.

Now that I've properly stripped, neutralized and stained my deck, I'd like to keep it looking good as long as possible and to maximize the life of the stain. What yearly maintenance steps do I need to take? I'm assuming yearly cleaning, but with what product, Sodium Precarb??? Also, does the Sodium Precarb need to be neutralized like the stripper, or is that only when re-staining? What brand/products do you recommend and are there any that can be added to the reservoir of a 20:1 downstream injectable pressure washer? Thank you.

LMAO I would like to clarify that the cost was not the only nor was it the primary reason I passed. I deleted the following from my initial email to you, Jake and Scott because it was already too long. I was having a hard time getting on the schedule of the only two contractors in the area with whom I trusted to do the job. My deck is only 20 x 12 and was a relatively small job for them. As discussed above, I paid a professional the second time and was not happy with the result. The only reason I didn't put the word "professional" in quotes was because I didn't want to be disrespectful as I'm sure he works hard and is trying to make a living like everyone. All he did was "clean" my deck with a pressure washer and apply the new stain directly over the old stain. When I was having trouble getting on the schedule of my two preferred choices, I decided to trust myself over anyone else. Experience has taught me that almost anything can be accomplished with the proper knowledge, tools and hard work. My chosen profession has taught me how to research and acquire knowledge. I promise I'm not exaggerating when I tell you that I put over 20 hours of research and reading before committing myself to the project. Your website contained valuable information on stripping, cleaning and neutralizing wood, as did the threads on this site. I was also able to tap the knowledge of the two local professionals I mentioned above and beat the ear of local suppliers in my area. I read countless articles reviews and articles on the internet. By the time I was done researching, I gained the confidence to proceed. My father taught me value of hard work and I've never been afraid to get my hands dirty - despite being desk bound CPA. The tools were the one area in which I could have done better. My pressure washer was more than adequate, but I wish I had taken more safety precautions. There's little to no excuse for not having the appropriate gear. I couple of hours more research and I would have known the appropriate chemical suit to buy, and the reason I spilled the solution in my shoe is because I wasn't wearing my work boots. I also could have had a taller ladder or better application tool so I wouldn't have had to work so closely and above my head.

My wife is an RN and tended to my foot. The wound has healed nicely. Thank you for the concern.

Jake, Scott, Beth and Rod: I would like to thank all of you for your help. I am thrilled with how my DIY deck project turned out and all of you played an instrumental role in its success. Beth and Rod: Although we never spoke directly, your help and advice came from one of your employees who went above and beyond to help a DIY homeowner. The Roles you all played in my success I’m a business advisor/CPA in Pittsburgh with moderate DIY skills. My deck is 10 years old pressure treated pine, and it was time to seal it for the 3rd time (I’m about one rotation behind). I did it myself with Wolman’s Durastain Natural Cedar the first time. I paid a local professional who used Oil based Olympic Maximum (Green Can) – Cedar Natural Tone the second time. I was only moderately satisfied each time and decided it was time to “Do it Right”, although I didn’t want to spend the $1,200 - $1,500, which I was quoted by the expert in our area. Once, I decided to do it myself, I went into “research mode” so as not to repeat the mistakes of the past. I researched oil vs. acrylic stains, chemical strippers, neutralizers, Material Safety Data Sheets, PH Levels, Armstrong-Clark, TWP, Defy, Bakers, Wood Tux etc. A variety of reviews and Google searches lead me to: The Sealer Store Armstrong-Clark See Dirt Run! Inc. The Grime Scene I quickly narrowed my choice of brands between TWP and Armstrong-Clark. I pushed Scott hard for a firm recommendation between the two, but he was equally firm that they are similar products, both will do an excellent job and that I will be equally happy with either. At his point, I was leaning towards TWP. I read several posts on TGS, and a few other contractor forums, which stated I had to clean or possibly strip the old stain and neutralize/brighten the wood. Not knowing whether or not I had to strip vs. clean and whether or not stripping was in addition to or in lieu of cleaning, I emailed Armstrong-Clark and posted a question directly on The Sealer Store’s website. I had a return call from Jake within 5 minutes of sending my email. He informed me that I had to strip the old stain off and referred me back to The Sealer Store as to whether I had to clean after stripping or simply neutralize. I asked him to compare his product to TWP, and he said I’d be happy with either, but added that A/C had both curing and non-curing oils that would penetrate into the old wood. He reiterated that I could buy either product at The Sealer Store. He gave me his cell phone number and offered his continued assistance. I checked back with The S.S. to find they had answered my questions - strip in lieu of cleaning and use neutralizer. I placed another call to Scott questioning whether curing vs. non-curing oils is marketing bullcrap or truly beneficial. Scott stated that the curing and non-curing oils have legitimate benefits and reiterated that I’d be happy with either product. I finally decide on A/C because Jake called me back within 5 minutes of receiving an email, gave me his cell phone number and offered continuing assistance. I purchase A/C Sequoia, RAD Deck Stripper and RAD Deck Brightener. I quickly had buyer’s remorse when I read one post on another contractor forum suggesting that the non-curing oils in A/C limit its resistance to mildew. At this point I “Run” to Beth and Rod and placed a call directly to See Dirt Run! Inc. seeking advice. Their entire crew was out on a big job , but a very helpful employee assured me that they primarily use A/C and are happy with it. He also stated that they add a mildewcide to it to enhance its resistance to mildew. I asked him what they added and when he didn’t know off the top of his head, he went into the store room to look. He came back and told me they add M-1 Advanced. After another quick call to Jake to confirm its compatibility, I was finally off and running. My Trials and Tribulations My deck is a raised deck approximately 9 feet off the ground and is covered by a roof. Day 1 - Stripping (Top side, Roof Supports, Stairs, Inner and Outer Spindles) – Let me say this was one long and hard day that took about 9 hours. Despite sufficient warnings on the label, I was unprepared for the caustic nature of the RAD Deck Stripper and didn’t possess the appropriate gear. I unknowingly spilled the solution in my shoe when I was mixing it. After a few hours, I started to feel an ache in my foot. I assumed it was from working on my feet, so I loosened my shoe laces and pushed on. It wasn’t until I got into the shower that I realized the stripper had eaten away the skin on top of my foot about the size of a half-dollar. I also received minor chemical burns from working above my head as a result of “blow back” and gravity. See Picture 1 (Foot, one week after burn) Day 2 - Stripping (Underside) – The day starts at Home Depot where I buy a chemical suit, nitrate gloves and a face shield. Now, I don’t know if the chemical suits are color coded, but let me assure you that the blue chemical suit from Home Depot cannot possibly be the correct suit as the stripper saturated through the suit resulting in minor chemical burns to my elbows. See Picture 2(Short Pudgy Guy “Dressed to the Nines”) Day 3 - Neutralizing – This is the only day I made a “field adjustment” and went against someone’s advice. I was tired of being burned and the RAD Deck Brightener still needed to be applied directly by pump sprayer. A review of the MSDS indicated a PH < 2 and a combination of citric acid >50% and Oxalic Acid <50%. A review of the Zep Deck Cleaner Concentrate showed a PH of 1-2 and a combination of Oxalic Acid and DiHydrate; Ethanedioic Acid. The Zep Deck Cleaner was perfectly formulated to be added directly to the reservoir of my 20:1 infection ratio pressure washer, which would allow me to stand much further away when applying. I concluded that the Zep Solution would effectively neutralize the Sodium Hydroxide which had a PH >13, and decided to use it instead of the RAD. Although the ship has already sailed, please let me know if I made a mistake. I don’t plan on doing this ever again, but you never know and I hate repeating mistakes. See Pictures 3 (Deck after stripper and neutralizing). Days 4-7 (after a week to dry) - Staining – No significant events to note, other than I purchased too much product and have 4 unopened gallons of A/C Sequoia (I purchased a 5 Gallon drum and 4 individual gallons) and 3 unopened canisters of RAD Deck Brightener. See Pictures 4 and 5 (Finished Deck - J ) I just want to reiterate my gratitude as this is the best my deck has ever looked. Thank you all!!! Advice to all DIY Pay the professionals, they earn every penny.