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Ron G.

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Posts posted by Ron G.

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Did HO not want house cleaned as well? I mean come on is that mold all on the second floor in pic 2?....Hope you got some wiggle room there and this guy didn't have someone before you tell him what was going to happen and he kept calling until he found someone to burn....I'd be asking some sneaky questions to find out if this guy was warned by anyone else what could happen to try to document some culpability on his part.

    Some of this maybe true, however, I sold the homeowner a roof cleaning. This should not include cleaning / brightening adjacent surfaces. I screwed up and I know it. A series of mistakes on my part lead up to this event. Once I recognized the problem I immediately phoned the HO and informed him, my first step of damage control.

    We now have a signed contract listing the scope and proposed outcome of further work to be performed. The HO has been very patient thus far and has commented that he has "total confidence that I will rectify the problem".

    Personally in this biz, my reputation is paramount. In this case a little labor and money will go a long way in preserving my rep.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Ron ,you can't clean a roof without effecting the siding when it comes to Bleaching oil. Most likely those areas were starting to degrade any way. What you might try is to do a bleaching of the siding and use a brush to blend in some of the stain from the good to the bad areas.

    If I try this, will I be able to apply CBO to the lightened areas and blend into the non lightened areas?

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I'd say this is an instance where the homeowner is screwing you over a free staining job. You should have told him that stain would come off from just looking at it - and made him sign off on it. I don't see a bleaching oil - just a solid stain in a grey color?

    Dan, I must admit, I committed a series of errors on this job. Right from the start I had the sense something was not right with this guy. With that said, as you know there are thousands upon thousands of homes just like this in the Northeast. Gotta learn some how. This one will hurt my ego & back more than my wallet.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I think EFC will do it, I think the shingles needed cleaning to begin with as well. I don't think touch up will make the owner happy, based upon what I see. I am not familiar with all the part numbers but I bet if you call their tech support they can help.

    Beth

    :cup:Galactic coffee:cup:

    Thanks Beth.

    The condition of the existing finish is terrible. Mold, mildew and areas of completely failed sealer. Not to familiar with this product but it is most likely lack of maintenance is the leading cause. At first I wondered why the HO would let it become so grimy. The pics. clearly indicate why. You look at this stuff funny and it melts off before your eyes.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Need some input on stripping / resealing using Cabot's Bleaching Oil.

    While performing a roof cleaning, some of the adjacent cedar siding was lightened as a result of contact with the roof cleaning solution. (This was previously disclosed to the home owner that this may occur).

    In the attached pics you can see where the roof solution brightened the shakes (about 1 foot above the the roofing). The blotchy areas above that and in the front entrance area was caused by pre-wetting with low pressure.

    Cabot's website http://www.cabotstain.com/pdf/BOIL3241.pdf states that this product can be applied to surfaces previously treated with CBO. I'm wondering if the areas can be lightly cleaned with a percarb and resealed or will this cause a blotchy result.

    My first thought is to completely strip and reapply CBO. The fact that the existing finish melted off so easily, with little pressure, I'm thinking that EFC-38 may do the trick.

    Also I'm confused about product part #'s. anybody know if part # 6241 supersedes part # 3241 or are they two diff. animals?

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  8. Posted · Report reply

    Celeste,

    Two pics, one of the "lapping" mentioned in a post above. Contractor error, certainly no fault of the stain. The pic is a single, initial coat. This was mostly corrected by a second application of stain on the deck floor.

    .

    Rick, not trying to hijack, but you say the lapping "was mostly corrected by a second application of stain on the deck floor".

    First, How to avoid lapping in this situation?

    Second, when lapping occurs what steps can be taken to lessen or correct?

    Thanks, Ron (extreme wood novice).

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I don't say this in impress people but to impress upon them to know there craft. Understand every situation has a solution. Sometimes it is walking away. Be up front if you don't know ! This is very important and you will gain respect. Study all aspects of your craft. This only comes with experiencing many situations and the patience to investigate and solve problems. With success the calls and referrals will be Very High Caliber. Your sold before you call or see the job ????

    Thank you James, words to live by.

    Very true words. Create a deserved reputation over time and three things seem to happen. First, the type of customer and jobs are in the higher dollar range. Second, those customers tend to provide more and better referrals to other high end customers. Third, you will become more involved in interesting work with exotic woods and challenging restorations.

    Rick, this is ultimately where I want my biz positioned.

    As always, wise words from Rick and Jim. Anyone new to exterior wood restoration should copy those two posts from Rick and Jim, paste them into a word document, enlarge the font to 36, and tack them on the dashboard of their truck!

    .

    Agreed!

    It's funny how a request turns into a good thread ?

    Quality

    Yeah, don't stop now, your just getting warmed up.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    BTW -how's business down where you are?

    Hi Dan, I am very happy overall the way things have turned out thus far.

    For me this is not my fulltime job, with that said, I have managed to payoff 12k in equipment upgrades this year. At this point I'm not sure of my numbers but I'm way above last years sales. Roof washing is what I'm pushing the most and it is paying off. If we are lucky we have 12+ weeks remaining until that white stuff appears. The push is on big time!

    I hope things are going as well with you Dan.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Ron,

    Some clarification if you will on two of your pictures. In the first large view of the interior, the wood looks to be relatively clean. In contrast, the third close up picture of the T&G pine shows wood that is either covered in some type of spores, shotgun mildew, or very interesting dirt. Any idea or can you elaborate?

    Off hand, I would think a diluted, say 2% bleach mix with a bit of soap could be applied after wetting the wood. With a few large, soft truck brushes, quickly and lightly scrub the wood while the solution is still wet. Apply more if needed before it dries out.

    Rinse with very low, dump tip pressure. Rinse a second time. Unless you or the customer wants to lighten the color of the pine further, I do not think that an acid application is needed.

    Test this on a small, out of the way area of the wood before going into production.

    Rick, the majority of the wood appears just as the close up. Covered in black spots (mold).

    I will perform a test using the process you suggest. I will apply to two seperate areas, one of the spots I will apply an acid to see what type of a color shift occurs.

    Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Hoping some of you Woody’s can help me out here. I don’t have many wood resto’s under my belt and I need to submit a bid on this structure.

    The foot print is 30x60, the wood measured out just under 3k sq. ft. I will be just cleaning and neutralizing.

    The wood appears to be eastern white pine, tongue and grove. Never been treated.

    My experiences in the past with this type of wood is that it furs like crazy. I would like to avoid this as much as possible.

    Can you please advise me on proper chems. / process. I’m thinking maybe percarb or light bleach, yes, no?

    I have used EFC-38 in the past on a cedar shake resto, I worked great.

    Thanks, Ron.

    A couple pics.

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  22. Posted · Report reply

    Add a high quality car wash (one with wax) to your mix. The windows come out nicer and the wax in the wash adds some tone and life to siding. My mix calls for 20 oz in a fiver for downstreaming. Adds about $1.50 to the cost of the housewash if you use something like Meguire's Gold.

    Ken are you using this in conjunction w/ Simple Cherry?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I am currently using Simple Cherry, SH, and a little jet dry for good measures as a housewash mix. I downstream it on and achieve good results. I feel like I could get better results with a new soap. I just don't like how the simple cherry doesn't foam much. I would love some advice on better chems and where to get them. Has anyone used the Classic Brown from delco?

    What do you mean by better results? Are the surfaces not cleaning adequately?

    Are you using fresh 12.5% S.H.? Dwell time?

    As someone else stated, is your down streamer properly sized for your application?

    I'm very happy with the performance of Simple Cherry. Just enough suds to make it stick, less rinsing = faster wash times = more $ in your pocket!

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