bforbis

I guess I haven't been able to find someone to make a "good" repair around here. I tried 3 different shops at least twice and all of them failed almost as soon as I fired it up. Sooo I gave up on that and just put out the $$ on new hose instead of riding around place to place. Time spent not working is $$$ that could be coming in. After you have a couple of hoses burst in your hands or new your head, it just is not worth the burn or worse. I have 200' of almost new hose hanging right now, where the end broke just behind the crimp. (new factory crimp and hose, never repaired). I called Goodyear and the supplier and both said not covered b/c over 6 months old!

I have had several hoses "repaired in the Hydraulic press and they just do not hold under the pressure and heat. Especially when the hose gets a jolts from the unloader! It really seems a waste to replace 200' of hose for one bad end, but I have not had any luck with repairs. I thought to send back to manufacturer and see if they can or will repair to like new. Has anyone tried that route?

I have been working on setting up a website, but not sure where/how to start. I am headed for the last recommendation and look around. Anyone care to summarize a few quick tips for starting, watch out etc, other than noted above? Thanks Brent

We have had and get 20 F at night on a regular basis in the piedmont area at nigh. Colder to the west and sometimes much colder. That will last until about March late Feb. or so. Depends!

I have been very pleased with the results from either Premier, Power Stroke or Ripper for cleaning gutters with minimal elbow grease. I usually saturate the gutter and brush on, allow a dwell time of about 5 minutes or less is usually adequate and wash off. Sometimes i go back over a section if I am not completly satisfied (on a really bad section). and all is good. I will have to say, I have seen the gutters and roofs in Fl and you have a different animal growning down there and it may be apples to oranges comparison???? Are you allowing adequate dwell time for the chemical to work and loosen black gue?

I use the automotive stuff straight into the pump and high pressure lines. When I purge, it does get slightly diluted, but I check it with a gauge to be sure I'm good for the night. Otherwise I add more straight to it. All the water hoses are drained, valve closed off and if I can I try to get some antifreeze next to them as well. These procedures have saved my system although it takes extra time and being pretty anal about how to do it. but when I fire the machine up it runs like it was summer

Thanks Steve, I have been to the local DENR website and searched for rules and regs. But get lost trying to find what I need. I think I need a class or some other type of help to get to the bone!

Have you looked closely at the gutters you are using it on? I was using it on a few houses when i first got some back about a year or so. At first I was pleased, but became concerned when I got a closer look at the results where some gutters were about eye level to me. I mixed and applied per directions(spray on and tried to pwash off) but noticed a spotted look where the chemical had splashed. That's when I really looked closer and saw it was actually burning the coating on the gutters. I get better results from the Espec chem for much less cost. From what I can tell of teh MSDS on Gutter Zap, it is sodium hydroxide ~10%....which is Caustic=burn. I can buy approx 12% NaOH in 55gal drums locally at about $4 +-/gal. I would rather use something that is not overkill.....I may be doing something incorrect here??? But i ahve tried it diluted and found not effective as claimed. Higher concentrations still not as effective and appears burned....guuters loose that gloss. VS if I use the Esec prodcuts, the gutters are cleaned, shine with same amount of elbow grease. What is ingredients and concentration of RPC?

This time of year I keep antifreeze in all my hoses, drain water out as best or completely possible. When I get to a job I can pump out the antifreeze and recover it in a 5 gal bucket and reuse when work is complete. I have to change or recharge the antifreeze about once a month, maybe a little more. I keep a check on how low it will go with a gauge from any parts store. It adds time to trying to run in the winter time, but the alternatives (frozen hoses, pumps etc) are much worse) Anyone else do it differently?

I tried the Gutter Zap (Gutter Burn) should be named. It worked somewhat on new and old gutters streaks. But the prodcut is NOT touchless as claimed. Even if you apply at full strength, which get very expensive. If you look at the gutter's finish when you use it you'll notice it is actually burning the finish. I stopped using it and switched to using Power Stroke or Ripper or even the Premier house wash (at higher concentration) from Epec. I could adjust the concentration as needed and have removed even the worst streaks. I just did a house yesterday that was really bad. I always prewet the gutters with my house wash and directly brush the gutters with soft brush and concentrate liquid. Close up and far away the gutters shine and do not looked burned(close inspection).

I have both the blue and yellow noodles for sale as well. Will almost give them to whoever wants them!!!!

You also get a price break by ordering from Espec of abour $100. If you order direct.

I was not really trying to point out a major difference other than to help people identify the product. I think Epecs still carries the twist lock "Noodles" and it is difficult to determine which is which from their part numbers and catalog....at least it was for me. So I had to have a discussion with a customer service rep to get what I wanted. (ie. Pin lock type as described prior.) I will have to admit the twist locks on the Coress are better than typical twist locks on the extend-a-wand, blue and yellow noodles.

I have used the Ripper on many house guuters and works great without "Burning" the gutter's coating. It is similar chemically to the Power stroke they sell, and i use a lot of that product, so for tough gutter cleaning I use that. I mix on site , concentration as needed and XJ and or brush on for detailed results and rinse when I rinse the rest. No more streaks and not damaged as some other chemicals I have used have done.

I used to downstream all chemicals but found the ball would seize and had to always make repairs. Then I found and switched to the M5 XJ and really like it. I have some issues with the claims for 30' reach, especially and mainly when drawing chemicals, but other than that it works great. I don't mind the extra bucket and hose too much, but it does get in the way sometimes and I trip (Call me Grace!!!) I wonder if I use too high pressure in cleaning siding, I noticed that some of you stated use of lower pressures. I should try a little lower I guess next cleaning, but thought I wouuld not get it clean. Barlox is a great surfactant and expensive. I have been researching a distributor for larger amounts (55 gal+) to get a price break for the gal at a time thing. Any one got a handle for those quantiites and pricing?

I have used all 4 types of wands extensively over the past two years. I started with the 1) "Blue Noodle" from our local Northern. Can be bought pretty much anywhere. It extends to about 24' and the flex is about 1'+ . It will twist, turn and is difficult to handle for detail work at that range. Also, the twist locks would jam, clog and just not work or come loose and I have a 15' wand sliding back at me and that would jam. I HATE THE TWIST LOCKS. 2) Next I tried the "Yellow noodle" same company supposed to be heavier duty I think. I may have the blue and yellow reversed. Similar issues. 3) I started doing roofs and ordered from Pitchwitch the 40' (?) Coress. Very well made nice piece of equipment, but expensive and somewhat too much to handle for a house. 4) I saw in the newer Espec catalog early in the year this newer version of the extend-a wand, but it is made in Canada. Extends to 24', about the same weight and blue and yellow noodles, with pin locks, does not jam and stays put. The tip will not rotate b/c the internal sections are milled with a flat face to catch the pin locks. I used it yesterday and on many many houses this past years. I have a spare in case something fails. It costs less than $200. I still have not found one to beat it, even the coress. Although in fareness, the coress is more versatile if you want or need to change from high pressure to low pressure window washing and other accessories. But that is where the $$$ investment goes up even more. Just my 0.02 worth.

Thank you for the referenced web sites. The Woodtux products and strippers look very reasonable compared to prices I pay around here for products. Does the woodtux come in different shades(colors) for stains? Or did I really miss something on the site?!?!? Thanks

I have been through several of the "noodles", fiberglass that can be pruchased about anywhere. I also have a Coress and it is heavy, sturdy but not practical for house washing. I am 6'3" over 200# and it is more than I want to tangle with for long periods. Espec started carrying (IN 2005 catalog)a new version made in Canada that is awesome in my opinion. I think the correct part # TW243N. It is aluminum, pin lock and has flat sides milled into the extensions so it does not twist. The tip always stays where you want it. The gun is replaceable and it is under $200. I have used this one a lot and would throw the other sin the trash or give them to anyone that wants the "Noodle".

Thanks! I thought I had seen the product but could not remember where

Where are you guys getting the chemicals f18 and hd80? I currently use powered cleaners, but always try and compare new stuff in search of better cleaners. Thanks

Thanks for the stats. I have had a similar year(s) between start up and following year and could use some help as new accounts come in. Only so many hours in a day! What type of advertising are you guys using? Word of mouth, yellow pages, knocking on doors, flyers etc??? Thanks

Awesome idea on the catch pan. I have been trying to research regulations and guidelines for NC area, and working through gov. websites is a maze! Do you have any suggestions for regulations and researching? I recently purchased a large filtration and vac unit and working to set it up and have it ready to go ASAP. I realize it may not be the best way to look at the business, but you get really odd looks when you suggest Enviro-cleaning techniques. I have seen one operator local get shut down because of how he was cleaning, and his method not much different than 95% of those in my area. I am trying to establish more Ecleaning techniques, but find that no-one is willing to pay the upcharge. Appreciate any help suggestions and comments. Sincerely Brent

If you have any issues getting MSDS sheets you can get it off the web. Just search the product by common name, chemical name, chemical formula or cas#

I am new to the forum and business and not familar with HD 80 or the other chemical that you guys are using. Have you used ESPEC dry chemical and how do they compare for oil, grease, cost? Thanks

Jarod, Thanks for correcting my mistake. I forgot a step in my haste to post....Long day and time for a cold beverage!