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Hi Ken, I have used or tried to use a couple of versions of these brushes. The only ones I could find were made of a plastic or composite fiber. Either of which get hot enough to cause the gearing to freeze up after about 30minutes of use. I was using unheated water through my PW'r with basically a flow through. Did not measure the pressure, but it was unrestricted. I went through 3 and sent them all back.

Jeese, I do a lot of repair in places and repair with the epoxy modified.urethane grout and it is a much better product. As well I use a water proofing adhesive for the base boards and seal top and bottom so the water is locked out. We use industrial vacs to remove the water, so the water is not sitting there long. Most of these restaurants have far more damage in place before I get there and I try to advise them on corrective path. The initial construction is where the fail lies.

[ATTACH]4961[/ATTACH] I visited my mother-in -law up in Maryland several months back. As we walked into her front door I noticed that Zorro had been. Not with the zero tip, but definitly with too much and too close. She lives in some very expensive townhomes ( IMHO all property up there is expensive), that are brick with cedar shake roofs. All th ebrick was badly marked up and she asked me if she should get the roof done???? I asked if she would mind that I take a pic of the handyman work, She asked, "Why is there something wrong???? Is it really that bad?"

I guess the owner forgot he was supposed to fill in between the lines! Perhaps he figured it was too much work and just quit. I really don't understand why they would even put a zorro nozzle on an HD machine anyway??

Yes, I understand the difference the age of the wood makes, as well as, previous care/condition..... Have checked a couple completed early in the season, are soemwhat darker, but are of older, neglected wood. I guess that was one of those questions......Duh! and checking to see if my perspective was true Thanks

Hey Russ, What's the trick with putting these on. I tried them a while back and could not get them on. Thanks

Not only does it expand, but the coil of hose acts like your heater burner and will super heat the hose within the coil and result in early failure

Great job Jarrod. I have had to deal with Sikkens Products a few times and they are no fun. I need a little help in the patience dept. as well. I really like using the Osbourne brushes for the five oclock, when needed. They are great for buffing up areas quickly,

Scott, The Cb in my area and I assume they are all built pretty much the same. Have a front porch area about 100' X 12'. Sidewalks are on both sides, 4'X60' +-. Back area designated as 15 X15', but grease, grime, build up etc is usually spread all the way in a path to the dumpster, the dumpster area is some where in the range of 30X30 minimum. Every manager has slightlyvarying expectations, which include....The PW'r moves the chairs, if and when he feels like unlocking them. The Pw'r puts them back and they want you to lock them back up again. There are usually no fewer than 25 to 30 chairs and as many as they can put and stackon the porch during times like Xmas, mother's day, father;s day and any other opportunity to have a sale. I have been cleaning them for a number of years and have carried my share of chairs back and forth. When you are waiting for them to unlock and "WAIT FOR THEM TO MOVE THE CHAIRS" you may be in for a long night.

The front is about 1800 sf alone. The back area concrete is another 2000 sf +-, there are sidewalks along the sides and then the dumpster area which is typically another 40 X 40'. This is the size of all the ones in my area. Measured them and an average is 6700 sf. They take about 2.5 to 3 hrs to do if done regularly, qtrly is a different ball game....seen that. I realize I don't have all the information on what they want and are willing to pay for. I do know what condition these locations were in before I began to clean them and what condition they will be in on a qrtly cleaning basis!!!!

Ron, Thank you for the support. That was my intent on the posting my opinions of what I see happening through the pricing as noted by what CS would pay. I agree that contracts are or can be good, but everyone knows or will find out quickly that to do the job properly requires the proper equipment, chemicals, technique etc to run a profitable business. The managers at the locations I provide service for have been through this before and are resisting the change.....but I am sure they will have to do what they are told by the suits. That is the way of the corporate world. IMHO...It will only be a matter of time before they figure out this may not really be so cost effective, Ie quarterly cleaning, subcontracting to anyone that bites for the $$,) I have heard from many of the managers that more and more health inspectors are looking more closely at the back areas, dumpsters etc and deducting points. I have seen as much as 3 points deducted. I have also seen the inside of coolers look worse than the dumpster and the restaurant gets a 98?????? Go figure that

Don, As a PW'r I appreciate the info you have past along. I have several of the CB in my area and recently found out about the corporate level change to Commercial Services. I have been providing service to these accoiunts in my area for about 3 years on a monthy basis and I know how dirty they get. The amount mentioned above ($200), IMHO is another act of Low balling, price cutting to get business or what ever you may choose to call it. They are not staffed or set up to perform this service (that I am aware of) and although they are a professional company, my cuistomers do not want to change to another vendor for cleaning, b/c they have been there before and receive POOR cleaning. I guess I am venting a bit here, but it is clear htat someone has marketed that CB can save money by cleaning quarterly from services provided by those accepting very low $$. Most of these CB are in the neighborhood of 6700 sf. The dumpster areas, even on a monthly basis, are black and thick with grease, trash, food and funk. On a quarterly basis.... I will be happy to post some pics I have from normal cleaning. I have many of them where grease had to be shoveled. I guess CS is not even bothering to consider the environmental aspect!!

Yes I agree on the tesing aspect. I went down that avenue a number of months ago. I have a solid chemical and chemistry background, but lost that job several years back. I still like digging into the chemistry of things and how they work, but loosing a lot and making assumptions without bench testing and confirmation are only just assumptions ans theory. I am sure the IPE would like a vacation from assault! Wish you luck

Hey Rick and Others, I wish I had more answers, but still digging into the chemistry of the components. I would have expected that after you sanded you would have gotten to "original wood" color or something close. I have even seen ceramic tile and concrete absorb the silicon from mats that left a discoloration behind. The silicon will do both to "stain or discolor" and create a barrier. That's why they work so great....and not so great when trying to remove them. It's almost like teflon (similar chemical structure). Here is a link where I found some relatively good information. It will explain the differences between silicons groups and how they are processed. More importantly, where the weakness is! Below is a quote about a general weakness. I realize this is "untested" for wood restoration as far as I know.... but perhaps, you could test a small area and see. Use a dropper portion of strong acid followed by strong base (not the same dropper though). http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=920#_Classes_of_Silicone Thermal Stability .

Everthing I have researched for a solvent for silicon based materials involve some nasty chemistry. I found one article that suggests ammonia as a solvent, which is by far the safest of any of the groups I found....But it would be an experiment. Perhaps the easiest alternative would be to sand the crap out of that area???? Sorry but not much help! Silicon groups and similar are very difficult to break the bonds chemically. They are usually surrounded by large nitrile groups and the chemical bonds are many, from many different angles (remember the Chinese finger trap?....Very similar chemical structure)

Hey Rick and Others... I have skimmed through several of the posts since i gave my humble opinion. But i really identify with and sincerely appreciate your approach to wood needing time. I came from the coast where there was a lot of teak and a very close friend of mine had a business with high end boats and cars. Boats have lots of teak, shaping a surf board required a "FEEL" not just templates and a machine. You can use your search engine to get into the chemistry of these stains. With some basic organic and inorganic chemistry you'll begin to get the picture. Think of the long chain molecules as a series of bends at 90 degrees. At each bend is another molecule that has attached to it a major chemcial group. Well I am heading into (too) deep territory, but there some info there i would glad to help try to explain and or direct you to. By understand the grain structure and the chemical structure of the stain, you can understand what will and will not work and why (at least "theoretically").....have to adjust for changing factors like what phase the moon is in!!! LOL The half moon area from the mats is silicon leaching from the mat. have seen that before. Would ahve to do more reasearch to find what will reverse. Almost all mats have some sort of silicon based materials.

I'd be sure my security is up to date and run it to look for any goodies the link left behind or spyware!

Rick, I am by far an expert, but what I know about chemicals and wood might fit into a thimble, but the very properites that make the wood and the stain withstand as individuals....ie the wood is tight grain hardwood; the tung oils (long chain alkyds) have a very low viscousity and flow into the the tight grain. Once they dry into the grain, its sort of like the old chinese finger trap thing, the molecular structure is a chain and difficult to break and totoally remove. I realize this does not help remove it, I think the option is sanding or similar.

Jeff, I have used a product for polishing glass. It is a micro fine powder and really cuts through any residue. I realize this is not what you have estimated for, and it does require hand buffing......but if you need something that will cut through about any residue, I use this product. I did a house a couple of weeks ago that had really large plate glass windows and they remarked that they could not tell there was any glass in the frame.

Personally, I would not even open that box of snakes. Use a well worded disclaimer and get on with the cleaning. It is difficult to determine what might happen, even if you know what to look for. I could not imagine doign an estimate to also include inspection of the attic and so forth. KNow that the technique you use and be consistant will not result in damages under normal situations. If there is previous neglect by the homeowner, poor construction practices or whatever....you should not have issues. That's why I feel it is important to know who, what when and where and etc from the insurance adjuster. My experience is, that although they may know a little about some things, you have to educate them, just as you do any customer. Make sure to be clear that you are NOT at fault. You have to make that statement and or any written correspondance. Get copies of any reports ASAP and review them thoroughly. CYA....NO ONE ELSE WILL!

I have to admitt that I am one of those that will watch and ask questions, but at a respectful distance..... That's how i found the sign!!!!

I saw a sign notice the other week in a shop...Can't remember exactly but it went something like this: Normal rates; Monday through Friday Tine and half on Sat. Double on Sunday. If you watch: add 20% If you help: 3X normal rates If you have suggestion/comments while I work add 50% Etc etc etc

My machine is the same size and I run a 24" and 36" max, both are two nozzle design and do fine. Both my machines have, and I prefer to be on swivels so I can go from side to side and any direction. The BG looks to be a bit limited in movement, but I have not used that model. My first one was a hover type design (borrowed) and it felt like resistant to move, but moved OK. Still prefer swivel casters

Staying busy. Did a couple of decks last week and a lot of late night commercial stuff. Some renovations, tile cleaning, kitchens, etc. Been working with concrete overlay systems and vertical wall stuff. I finally got a few days to relax, we went diving on Florida caves and pulled a muscle in my back. Just getting better now. We're heading to Bikini Atoll in a couple months for some really deep wreck diving.

It looks great Jarrod. I have never used TWP, but I like the look