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It looks great Jarrod. I

A 4 to 5 gal a minute machine does not have adequate flow/energy to move a steel bar effectively. Too much energy is lost in getting it to move and keep in motion. Similar for a 4 bar set up. The 8 gpm machine can handle the extra weight of 4 bars. In addition, when using a lower flow machine, 4 to 5 gpm, the nozzles have to be so small to split the flow, they clog very easily. It is very similaar to one of the spray bars you get as an attachment, each are 1.3 gpm and are tiny holes and a PITA to clear when clogged. Never had any issues (yet) with my whisper wash. Replaced one bar at about 500 hours as it was worn badly from grit etc. I have two if them and both have been great so far. The only time I have had zebra striping was on really dirty areas, where I over lap. Have a section that is cleaned twice. I either slow down and/or make two passes or until cleaned properly. Either the flow/pressure was inadequate for the dirt, a nozzle is partially blocked, but still spraying without casuing the flow to pump, one or both nozzles could be misaligned. Have to do some trouble-shooting to resolve that issue,

I did 2 houses last week and have done several commercial cleanings of Dryvit/EFIS construction. I used the exact mix you discribed and works fine. I have and will use a 40 degree nozzle, bu thave to be very careful not to get too close. Usually stay off about 4 " works well. Gives a wide spray pattern of about 10 to 12" at that distance. Can back off around windows and get even wider as needed. Most of the time I will use the variable Xjet, with the widest spray pattern. It is about 500 psi going into the handle and much less at the surface (based on a 3500 psi machine)

Nice disclaimer One Tough. I have something similar for windows, seams and caulking in mine. · Is not responsible for Any leakage through seals, storm windows or doors and/or streaks on the inside of windows due to leaks and drips through seals.

Although insurance companies investigate, they may know nothing about the situation. I suspect your initial hunch of faulty install is most correct. If it were me, I would make detailed notes about where the leak is/is not, photos (if possible) inside along the roof. I know you have to be very clear with insurance companies that you are not at fault (unless of course you conceed). Does the roofing company ever had any previous issues, current claims etc. Be sure to ask and follow up on the decisions from the Ins. company. I don't like leaving my fate in someone elses hands, especially someone that may or may not have my best interest at hand.

Can They be removed fo rcleaning??? Would that help

Hey Classic, It's all about the flow, but therre is a dimenishing return for the psi. The actual physics for distance is directly related to the nozzle lenth, size and shape of the opening and flow. PSI is a consequence of flow and size of opening (orafice)

[ATTACH]4525[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]4526[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]4527[/ATTACH] Here are a few photos of Before cleaning!!! The total house was black and greeen with mildew and algae. The pics are truely representative of almost every inch. Will post additional pics of afters in next

Intially spray on house wash mix to get them wet and kill mildew (contains surfactants and 15% sodium hypochlorite). Used a brush with a light solution of sodium hydroxide(F18), wash immediately to a slight dwell time. They come clean with minimum effort and really shine.

Jeff, I changed out the standard 25 tips on my 24" machine a while back looking to make a more significant impact. They worked fine and I thought I could tell a difference. I am not sure if you can buy the same design of tip that comes standard with the Big Guy and their specific line. I know they are designed to give a wider spray pattern and other tips I have bought were spraying much narrower at the same degree of tip. I am not truely sure if it made a large enough change in cleaning, but it is an inexpensive venture. I went back to all 25 degree tips from manufactureer to keep all machines in the same parts. I did not want to grab a 15 and a 25 by accident or have odd pairs, just less complicated that way. If you try it let me know what you think

Ask them: if when the take a bath, do they only wash the side that appears dirty or do they wash everything????

[ATTACH]4528[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]4529[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]4530[/ATTACH] The house cleaned up pretty nicely. They really need lots of repainting and replacing some wood. Lots of rot and decay,paint peeling even before the water hit the siding. Estimated for cleaning and sealing for restoration on the deck and front porch areas, but hey did not want to spend the $$. Only cleaned wood with wood brightening agents and a thorough rinsing. It really needs lots of work everywhere! I guess it would not take much to determined that from original pics!!!

Great Job Kentucky, I had to relearn how to do pics for photo shop. Found an older post from Beth. resize based on inches 6X4.5 and 75 dpi and they went through just fine...Thanks Beth I am sure there are other aways to get the same effect.

No water damage at all. Very little water gets on wood surfaces. All booths are about 4" above floor on Stainless posts. Total floor abd base boards arre tile. There was SO MUCH GREASE and dirt and crap on that floor it was about 3/16" thick in the grout areas. WHen I finished the final rinse the floor shined as if it weere new and grout was white again. SOmetimes you do get grout removed, but I will replace it when necessary, but charge for it. If the tile and grout is sound, I have not had a problem with pressure washing, pressure or heat causing an issue. The areas that need work will show up and I know where and what to look for (as best possible). Most managers understand, that it needs maintenance. Every store I have worked in for tile cleaning/repair has had many "TILE" contractors come in, charge $$$$ and the thile come out in 6 months. Where PW have the advantage is in the preparation. You get it clean, and properly prep'd, use the right materials (grouts, glues etc) it wil last. I have a procedure developed for this that works really well. An example. About 3 years ago, one of my first jobs isdie a restaurant kitchen line where large areas of tile were coming up, had an area of water, grease, all kinds of FUNK about 1/2" under the tile. It was actually the grout bed had softened from the grease water and crap over many years. Long story short....we removed, prep'd and installed for new tile. I do there cleaning (outside) on a monthly basis. The tile is still there and what we did not replace was coming up. We are repplacing other sections that were not replaced in a few weeks and have district interested in looking at other storers

I use as little pressure as possible, mainly b/c you really don't know how good the grout or installation is. You can be cruising along and blow out a section of grout. But don't panic...it's not difficult to replace. The key is to inspect the area and expect it from some areas and inform the customer. Bill accordingly. I inspect the area(s) before cleaning and look for anything that might be a problem. I do minor tile repair (some has turned into major repairs b/c of it was just needed...not b/c of highpressure) and regrouting. I have developed a procedure, that even "tile isntallers" do not go to this much detail, for restaurants and use materials that are epoxy modified and really last. I just did one last night, in a cooler of a Lone Star. If you don't mind the night life, there is good niche for interior tile cleaning for restaurants. This morning I confirmed another Red Lobster for a complete interior cleaning of thekitchen and prep areas (no hoods), floors, walls, under equipment, sanitization...

Not in my opinion... Depends on how big the house is. I have spent more than a few days preping a house (but not Stucco), it was really poor condition german siding. True stucco, if in good condition can go pretty well

What type of surface are you preping for paint? Wood siding, stucco?? Not a big fan of TSP myself. There are some deglossing chemicals available, but i have not used them.

I have the 24" and the newer 36", but no the BG. I have used both like crazy and only had to replace the spray bar ( once in 2 years). Aluminum is light, but is a trade off b/c is its properties. It's not very expensive relative to alternatives. I am sure you could go to any fab shop and have them make one out of titanium for mega $$$

Thanks Celeste!

I hope this is not too far off the thread... Have not had to do it yet, but how do you place a lien on a business that has not paid a bill. Not sure what the course of action would be after several billing notices (past due) etc.

Perhaps the swivel(s) were bad from the start. I constantly hold the hose from and pull from an armslength down from gun. Try to keep the hose "dressed" in a relaxed position and not pulling on it at the connections. (Who needs to do curls at the gym??? Just pull 200' of hose all day....Got a new work out video coming...LOL) The swivels leaked in the middle where they are factory sealed. How difficult is it to connect a swivel???? Unloader is flow actuacted.....Thanks Jim! I changed out the straight line gun on my surface cleaners to the standard L shaped gun to get the hose more in a natural line. It's also more confortable to hold/move around.

jgoral76 vbmenu_register("postmenu_61460", true); ... Don't sweat it. Put you renergy into another project and move on. You'll run into those without regard/respect for basically anyone. You'll recognize them now. Best of Luck

Those that are doing the estimate on the spot, do you have pre-printed forms? Is it all verbal?

I wish I could find someone that can do a good repair on hoses. I tried several people inmy area last year and all the connections did not last past the first cycle of the unloader and blew off. Had to trash 200' of hose that was only 7 mos. old b'c the end at the connection rusted out! I also tried using inline HP swivels, stainless, they leaked so bad i took them off the first day.

It takes everybit of $100 to fill up trk and machines to run. I figured it costs about $6.5 to $8 per hr per machine(hot, moderate to high temps) running for fuel alone, at current fuel prices, excluding travel.