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I had one short out after about 9 months from new. Manufacturer replaced it no charge on labor or parts. Other than that, cross my fingers, no other issues in over 800 hours on machine.

Jarrod, I think those are rebuiildable and they sell a kit for rebuild. Scott, nice site for swivels.. I marked that one. Hope I don't need it any time soon, but never know. Good Luck Jarrod

After re-reading my previous post, it did not come out the way I intended. The overall results I had with both HD80 and F18 MAX were good, as both seemed to brighten the concrete more than what i was normally using. I will definitly revisit F18 MAX as I would prefer to carry powder based chems, rather than liquid. There are a couple of factors to consider when trying to analyze cost and effectiveness of chemicals that most seem to take for given. That is concentration of the chemical, dwell time, hot or cold cleaning.

Jeff, I have used the Espec Power stroke for about 2 years and it does work well for concrete cleaning and you can adjust the strength, since its a powder. I usually pretreat heavy oil spots with a liquid sodium hydrox degreaser from a local distributor and I have also added to it with the epsec additive oil buster. The oil buster seems to help emulsify the oils, it not that expensive an additive, but not truely sure it has made that significant an impact on oil spots. I have also tried F18 MAX and it seem to do a nice job on general concrete, but did not seem to impact the heavy grease and oils I see around restaurants, but have not used a lot of this product. In addition, I have tried HD80, SH beads and some other brands that I just gave up on, b/c of cost, lack of cleaning etc. I did notice that when I changed from PS to the F18 MAX or other SH based powders, I think the surface was a little whiter than usual. I am not sure if the change in chem was the result. I had felt,thought whatever,, that after using PS for sometime the surface was yellowing.....but not positive. Jarrod, Since you use PS could you add any observations from your point of view.

Also Check McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Shipped and on your porch the next day

Great Job Matt and good luck on future jobs. Those are the jobs (pics) that really help sell the next job. Go by Staples or Oficce MAX and get a packet of clear sheet protectors and start a portfolio. Keep it with you and show it whenever you get an opportunity. It's like having kids pics, but different. Want to see pics of my children!!!!

Instead of handing out the typical business cards or refrigerator magnets, THEY GIVE OUT A PAPER WEIGHT !!!! GUESS WHAT IT'S SHAPED TO LOOK LIKE

I took the training at Pure Texture a few weeks back, same as Celeste. I really like the porducts and very excited about using it. I have few clients on for some small stuff as soon as the weather is right. I like the idea of playing in mud and getting paid for it!

The only issue I had with rain was in the wiring harness. When it rained, moisture got into the harness and would short out something. Once I figured out what was causing the shorts, It got taped up to help water proof it. SInce then no issues with rain, other than already posted with rust

EmpirePW, I have and am doing a good bit of interior cleaning tile in restaurant kitchens and service areas. Hot water is a diffinte plus, and I really would not want to tackle the grease on kitchen floors without it. Otherwise, you just spread it around and really not cleaning. That is where the hot water really makes a difference, but I understand if you don't have it and on a budget. I use a strong Sodium Hydroxide based degreaser and have used the HD80, b oth work great. I inspect the floor looking for soft, low and non existing grout areas in the grout. These areas can be removed back to sound installation and replaced after cleaning. Depending on time factor, I will use a rapid set motar thin set or a polymer modified water proof adhesive/sealer I get from our tile supplier. Prep is essential to a succesful job. I replaced some about two years ago in a restaurant and all my work stayed and everything around it has begun to pull up. We will be reworking the total kitchen area in a couple months. I have cleaned with almost direct 15 degree tip at 3000 psi and not hurt anything, but I don't recommend that. I typically need no more than about 500 psi, and use the widest setting on my XJ. I use a heavy duty wet vac, a typical shop vac will work, but will take time to have someone dump out and continue cleaning. . Follow up by mopping (WITH A CLEAN MOP HEAD) any areas that trailed or to touch up. Wipe down seats or any areas that splashed. I can do a good sized restaurant 2500 sf myself, although one or two people would be a big help, in about 3 to 5 hours start to finish, depending on how many chairs etc has to be moved, how well the drains work and layout. Be sure to check that the drains do actually work. I think Craig or some others actually have a vac system attached to their surface cleaner, which really makes it nice.

I think I am just missing something altogether on the "down-streaming method" When I first tried using this method, I had to walk back and forth to cut off/on chemicals depending on whether I rinse of apply chems. Then I worried about if chems had run out, clogged line or there was always something that did not seem to be working correctly. I had several injectors seize up between uses, which added another PITA factor. I realize I was very new to using this method, had no idea really what I was doing. This was over 2 years ago and I never really tried anything else after I went with the XJ. I just thought tha was the way it was and the bucket method was and is working well for me. If I had to go back to the truck/machine it was much less frequent (mix chems or something little). What am I missing?

Hey Roger, Would you mind sending a pic of how you set it up. I had the same issue with it not working with 200' of hose and gave up messing with it, but some times I think down streaming would be a better choice for some jobs. Mine was set up near the pump (factory installed), but not sure without going to look and confirm. Thanks

" I owe, I owe, so off to work I go" ONLT TWO THINGS IN LIFE THAT ARE GUARANTEED; DEATH AND TAXES! I don't like to think about either one.

Jeff, You know i get hung up on the proving the math thing sometimes and completely miss the most basic part of the question/probelm and putting the answer in realistic terms. Sorry about that Jeff!!! Ron wrote: You may create more draw, but the I forgot abou the size of the id of the barb never changed. Ryan wrote: This is essentailly the same, although magnified version of changing from 3/8" to 1/4" hose, Still as Ron wrote, the id of the barb never changed.. Length of the hose will impact the flow and can only be determined experimentally, but that is splitting hairs even more. The viscousities of most liquids you will be using, although technically vary, are not significantly different to make a measurable difference. Larry, had the best bottom line answer......Put some stuff in a bucket and test it out. This will change if you change length of hoses or any other restriction added.

*****Made a slight miscalculation in above formula. The approx difference in chemcial as a result of the Delta P from the smaller hose would be more like. (0.1104-0.049)/ 0.1104 = 0.556 or about 55% more chemical for the increase draw through the hose.

Jeff, I will try to take a stab at it. The relative pressure draw the line experiences call it Delta P. Area of the inside diameter A(id) radius= r assume the inside diameter of respective hoses are 3/8" and 1/4" or 0.375" and 0.25" respectively. The relative difference in diameter change is what is important. As we are to determine the relative difference in Delta P between the two hoses. The radius of each is half that 0.1875" and 0.125" Assume that force is constant (no changes). pi= 3.14159 P= Force/Area A= pi*r*r 3/8" hose= A(1)= 0.1104 in^2 1/4" hose= A(2)= 0.049 in^2 0.1104/0.049 = 2.25 (approx twice the Delta P draw using the smaller hose, theoretically) There is a dimenishing return on reducing or enlarging the hose diamter, that deal with viscousity of fluid, length of hose, restrictions etc and other variables. Actual results would be something less than theoretical. I hope this helps... it is a quick "BALLPARK" explanation

Sopowerclean, Good luck troubleshooting, hope all goes well. I have the same machine with about 800 hrs on it. When you get the time, I have a few questions about what you think went wrong with your old pump and why. How many hours, what you were experiencing etc. I appreciate your time if you can.. Thanks

I just did a search on lime dust and came up with several things. Avoid acids, you'll need respirator to minimize exposure to lungs and sinuses. Cover your skin and wash any exposed areas. Like I said, there are a number of articles there to read. Also, the manufactureing plant should have someone on staff like safety officer. There was an article about a major lawsuit in Canada about a company that had the smae issue. Dust over everyone's property.

Chemist1, I see that you have not bothered to reply any further or actually provide documentation. Chemist? Anyone can declare that title and post a hit and run as you have done. The MSDS for the chemical is clear what the limits of exposure are for inhalation, digestion, contact etc and they are far greater than the dilutions being used to clean roofs, or kill algae/mold/mildew. Personally, I am not a huge fan of the use of Sodium Hypochlorite, but I and others do so and we do so with precautions. Even the local water treatment plant uses it daily. As a matter of FACT, there has been many years of research from major universities that have proven Sodium Hypochlorite to be an effective disinfectant and algaecide. So is Quantinary amonium, which is used commercially, hospitals, labs, food inductry etc. (as well as sodium hypochlorite). I have worked in the industry as a chemist, chemical engineer and in microbiology. If you have a sales pitch to make, then stand up make your point/pitch like you have a PAIR. Otherwise, don't bother ..!.,

Yes, I read intently the discussion about whether estimate should be free and or who would charge for them. It is a necessity in almost every business to give the customer some evaluation of what the work will cost. I also saw the formula in Cleaner TImes for what estimates cost the contractor. Last week I had a "competitor" call pretending to have some work that sent me on a wild goose chase for about 2 hours! What a complete LOW LIFE P.O.S.!

Scott: I knew if I started to put the details of who bought who together, I'd get something wrong!! (My apologies) Jarrod: Thanks: That was what I was trying to say. Look for the quality of the components of the system. One other component to consider is for anti-vibration/ isolation

Jeff and Ken, I use a TUFF which is same as Alkota and was recently bought by Karcher (German Company) They are good machines, IMO. They are very durable. I think the 8 gpm is a newer model for them this year. I was just asking about one last week and the local guy has one on the floor. When I spec'd mine (5.6 gpm/3500 psi/ 20 hp Honda)out severeal years ago all the parts and pieces were compariable, if not better than models by MiTM, or Landa (also locally supported), but the price was slightly less. They use(d) a Legacy pump, not sure on newest models, or since bought by Karcher, very well built and it puts out like a champ. I'd love to have the 8 gpm unit. I really don't have experience with other units, except from researching the specs and reliability based on service reports. Very few of the Karcher have been returned for service issues and should you need support your dealer and Karcher will stand behind it 100%. I had an issue with the relay for the burner system on the TUFF, kept fouling out. Karcher replaced it no questions, no charge (~$275). Found out the wiring harness where it clips together was allowing water to get in when it rained really hard. Wrapped it in water-proof tape, and no issues. I just pulled my original invoice for the complete set up: TUFF 20 hp Honda 3500 psi/5 gpm/12v burner listed at $7295 (cost $5595) 325 gal tank, two cox hose reels, 200 ft HP nonskid hose, lances Total on everything (except trailer) $7600 Trailer 14' landscape open, dual axile with electric brakes was about $1800 Ken... Are you dealing with ICE in Wilminton???

I am not sure if they will have what you are looking for, but McMaster Carr has about anything you can think of, also Grainger may be a good resource. www.mcmaster.com www.grainger.com

Thanks Rod, yes it helps. After trying so many different "strippers" (IMO)they all work about equally well (or not so well) on the dreaded acrylics and deck paints. I feel I am just missing something and keep digging or the right product It sounds a lot like the typical "stripeaze" type stuff used to clean wood furniture. Some years ago I had seen on one of those home shows there is a commercial stripping gel that is enviro-friendly that appeared to work great. Have you heard of anything like this. I don't remember a name, but they were using it on exterior house that had many years of paint. They smeared it on gave it a dwell time of about 45 min+-?

Hewy Rod, I see a lot of decks coated in heavy duty paints/acrylics etc and have little luck with typical sodium hydroxide based strippers. HD80, F18max, Wolmans decks strip, severe strip and a few others. All barely scratch the surface and seem to take up to 45 min + for each coat/layer and have to hit it pretty hard to get any results. Would you elaborate on your experience with Eacochem stripsol? Thanks