bforbis

:cheers: A couple more pics [ATTACH]3454[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3455[/ATTACH]

Well I think i completed the staining of the deck from hell. I am still waiting for it to completely dry though. There are a few areas that look darker than others, new wood vs. old aged wood. I would like to be able to blend them in a bit better. Anyway, here are a few pics of the job. I used the WOODTUX oil, which is my first time using this product. Those who are used to using this would appreciate any tips or suggestions. Thanks After Staining [ATTACH]3451[/ATTACH] Top side after staining [ATTACH]3452[/ATTACH] Before Staining side view. All Lattice was removed and replaced with vertical 1X4" planks all around [ATTACH]3453[/ATTACH]

Richard, Are you set with the size trailer you are getting (6X10)?? I am using a 6X14 landscape type with dual axles and it is full. Could almost use something a little bigger. If you are adding boxes, float tank etc on you may want to rethink the size. An exercise I did was to lay it out on paper the foot-prints of equipment plannng to use/mount and weight of each. Keep in mind that you will need to access tanks, tools, equipment etc to be able to wrok on it, so if you cramm everything into a tight place, it will make you life a bit tougher when the SH__t hits the fan and you have to work on it. Beth and Rod hit the nail with the weight of water. I use a 325 tank and rarely transport that much weight, use it stantionary up to full and it has worked on the springs. Be sure the wiring harness is not between the axiles and decking. Some guys that build these things have little sense about what they put where. You also want the wiring to be encased in a protective sleeve. Your truck will have to be set up with electric brakes (cost about $150) if you don't alrady have it. Bed sure your truck is rated to pull the weight and it has adequate muscle to handle the weight. Transmissions are very expensive!!!! Also, double check with your DOT about towing/commercial vehicle requirments....plays into the weight you are licensed to pull. Once you get the weight distributed properly, be sure the trailer will pull level. Depending on your truck axile height, you may have to adjust the pull ball height. If not level it will bounce and damage springs, tires and bearings. That should keep you thinking for a little while.....! GOOD LUCK

Larry B. What kind of discoloration have you seen and at what concentrations?

I make sure to suggest to them to change their mop heads more frequently. These restaurants are only moving grease around when they "mop", most use bleach water and no cleaning additive or degreaser. The mop water sits for days and they go out to mop up and spread more crap on the floor.

I am sure the vac with cleaner all in one is a lot faster than the way I do it. But making due with what I have. Alan; Do you have the Fury system with your cleaner?....Sorry if you had already posted that info

I had done about a dozen decks of various sizes and each and everyone has been different. This deck had a DURON solid ACRYLIC on it that was about two years old, maybe 3. Deck walking total area is about 1600 sf. The sides will be about another 1000 sf, not including the rails. I replaced the steps and several boards that were in really bad shape. I removed all the lattice from the sides and installed 1X4" with 3" spacing vertical and capped out each to dress it up a bit. Lattice work really sucks! Thank you for the support and comments........Roger, Sorry that I posted inside your post on this one.

It is actually my deck at home. But I did one similar this summer that had SIKKENs that looked caked on and globbed up. That job broke my CHERRY!!!! But I made a reasonable profit on it anyway. I lost the photos of the job after my computer crashed a few months ago. But I keep copies in my portfolio and it gets a lot of OOOOs and AHHHHHs. The initial strip took about 6 hours, but you don't see the other 50% of the deck. This is elevated about 10 feet and all four sides had to be stripped. Then I went into redesign mode and reipped the sides off and redeigned the deck. I'll have complete photos in a day or two when I fisih with the staining. Everyone that has seem the deck thinks it is new. I am plesed with the SUNBRITE products......just need a little more patience when waiting for them to work!

Here are a couple more closeups of the deck. You can see were I replacced several boards, but there probally should have been a few more replaced (where you see black). They are one major pain to remove. Whoever built the deck used 4" spiral spikes on the planking. Finally found the easiest way to remove the planking was to cut out sections between the joists with a reciprocating saw and then use the saw with a long metal cutting bladeto cut the nails from under the boards. I lost a couple of tooth filling in the process :lglolly: [ATTACH]3448[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3449[/ATTACH]

Hey Roger, That looks really great. I just tried some the the HD 80 and Severe Strip products from SUnBrite on a deck with a Solid Acrylic Stain by DURON. I initially used a Wolman's Deck strip product, b/c I did not know about other products that I learned about here on the forum. I tried the HD 80 on some stubborn areas that the Wolman's product didn't work on and it would not touch it, although I did not give it the dwell time you did on the deck above. The severe strip got most of the stubborn areas, but still have a few places that will not give up!!!! Here are a couple of pics of before and after stripping with brightener applied. Hope to have good weather this week to finish with some stain. I am trying the WOODTUX product. [ATTACH]3445[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3446[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]3447[/ATTACH]

I have been full time since I started in 2004. Although I started with some borrowed equipment to get started, I soon was able to set up a commercial rig and kept adding equipment. If I had to do it over again, I wish I would have gotten more flow output on the PW. I currently use 5 gpm/3500 TUFF with heater. It is and has been a great machine.

When calculating concentration you have to break it down into the components and NOT the combined weight to get the correct final concentration. Otherwise the final concetration will not be as expected. In the example above: you still only have 8.33# of water per gal of mix you add for 50% by weight of SH. If you were to add additional SH based on the combined weight of the initial mix, the final concentration would be less than expected. Hope this makes sense!

55 gal water * 8.33#/gal=458.2 # If you want a 50% solution then 458.2*0.50= 229.1# NaOH ****This will be extemely "exothermic" HOT Blend very carefully small amounts of NaOH with cold water to keep temps down. I'd start with at least 25 gal water then add NaOH while stiring. Be sure to where mask/respirator, rubber gloves and well ventilated area

There is another thread about call backs. I was wondering if anyone has issues with streaks on windows either as a call back or before you leave the job 2) How do you either prevent or handle them? Back Ground: I realize that if your soap dries it will create streaks that are very difficult to remove without some buffing compound (Been there, done that!!!). The problem, no matter how much I rinse there is still a trickle coming down the siding that works its way on the back side of the storm windows, such that rinsing does not effect. I had some repeat business to do some painting inside a house that I pressure washed several mnonths ago. They were very happy with the cleaning. But I noticed a couple of windows that had the tell-tale signs of the streaks I spoke of. Made me wonder, how many others had the issue?????? I would appreciate some discussion, comments, suggestions of if and how you handled this? Thanks Brent

I have been looking at the CC acceptance but have not b/c of the cost. Although not sure about total of costs. What is the expected for set up and processing payments? Do you work with your bank or direct with the CC company? Do you pass the expense of processing directly to customer (hiden or upfront)? Thanks Brent

I have heard of using a car wash for huse wash..... I have not tried that though. Been primarily using ESPEC premier house wash, but I am not liking the results around the windows. Cascade huh???? Thanks for the tips Sincerely

Thanks Ken, My methods are NOT the splash and dash, just to be clear. I can not believe anyone can do a good job of cleaning a house in that sort of time I do one section at a time and wet and rewet the windows, before I leave that side I take time to look for any missed areas and look for weeping in the siding. I try to be very careful not to get soap and water underneath the siding, but I find that soem houses are not constructed well, some worse that others. I check and recheck those over and over before I leave. I will come back around to check for weeping siding several times before i leave and touch up if and where needed. When I apply soaps I try to lay it around the window and use a brush on a extension to get the casing. I rinse with whatever length extension I need to get up to that height and be perpendicular to the siding. Use a wide fan and minimal pressure. Rinse from top down and follow up with an overall rinse top down once on the lower level. I think that as the soap/water is trickleing down the siding, it works its way around and gets on the back side of the storm windows. No mater how much you rinse, you can't get to the backside of the windows without going inside.

I had one guy early last year that saw a missed spot on the top edge of his fence "from his porch"! The area he was looking at was 150' away. When I got there it was 1/2" X 3" top edge of the fence. I touched it up that day. I try to make at least two complete walk arounds before i leave the job. SOmetimes, if it is low light when I am finishing up, I will come back the next day in good light to be sure all is well with the customer and my work. I know this is a lot, especially compared to how busy most of you are. But if I have missed something, I feel I should fix it. I get the impression, when I have had a call back, they expect that I take care of it

oPPS. Sorry for the previous!!!!! I hit the wrong button or something.. Read the msds sheet on all chems. if you don't get one ask and get it. Acid + bleach = poisonous gas (chlorine)

READ AND UNDERSTAND THE MSDS. iF

I am relatively new and have put my foot in my mouth a few time already!!!! Wanted to say THANK YOU for all you have done to share the knowledge. Would like to provide you with support to say thank you. Let me know how, where etc?? Brent

Jeff, I understand about the time spent talking about the grass growing!!! I need to work on that. From what I can tell of your posts, you seem to have a good system working for you. I am continuing to find what works and what does not, which is why I asked for a little more discussion on the topic for those that could spare the time......Thanks to all that shared!

Thanks for the extended discussion and your thoughts. I typically ask what the customer has in mind and expand or suggest based on what I see and what they want. I walk them around the house and find out what is on their priority, I look for other "projects". As a rule, I include the gutters, facia with the house wash. As Steve notes, if the ladder comes out the prices increases proportionately! I have one plan and that is my best work, 100% of the time. If someone wants "joe" down the road to do it b/c they are the cheapest, then "joe" can have the job. I sell my work and back it up, delivery, before after photos, close ups of gutters etc, performance so they have complete comfort. Clsoe the sell and get it done ASAP.

If the surface cleaner will not overlap to the edge I use either 15 tip and point away from any soft fluffy stuff and use a shorter wand for better control. I don't usually have many issues with blowing a lot of mulch , dirt away, although sometimes you just can not help it. I will follow up with a broom if needed for mulch or a light fan to mist and dress up the area.

For those that would definitly upcharge for (exterior) gutter cleaning.black streak removal...... Just for sake of discussion. How would you handle a customer that wanted the house washed, but would not go the increased price for doing gutters? 1)Would you do them anyway? 2)Would you stand by your price and only accept the work to wash the house and leave the gutters? 3)Would you not do the job at all?