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bforbis

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Posts posted by bforbis


  1. Jeff,

    Great post and ideas. I tried to look at phone usage vs cost and adjusted minutes that I was paying for. That helped as well. I am looking for other areas to target to reduce costs for this year.

    I really think mine were high last year when I look at the bottom line.

    I am not sure what would be considered good, but i am looking at % of each expense catagory (overall) compared to Gross . Then look at each job to see where I went wrong/right!

    Does anyone else have a particular method for analysis?

    What do you think the percentage of each catagory was compared to your Gross income?

    1) Fuel cost

    2) Repairs

    3) small tools

    4) New equipment Purchased

    5)Advertising

    6)Chemicals

    7)insurance( WC, GL,)

    8)Payroll

    9) Misc.

    10) Job Mat'ls (stains, sealers etc)


  2. At least in NC the painting/coatings does not appear under a specialty that requires GCL. I called the office in Raliegh and spoke with several to get direct interpretation and they said it was not relavant to painting/PW etc. Certainly, I expect most jobs to be well under the $30K limit.

    My point in asking and start the discussion (those please forgive me if this results in a rehash of previous topics) was to look for and capture the attirbutes that work for areas that require licensing to develop the groundwork for the PW industry/organization as a whole. With the beginnings and development of PWNA, WRAPI, ***** etc there has to be and appears to be a desire to distinguish one group from the other (ie certified, licensed, insured etc.) I understand that b/c you have a license does not imply quality, but it should mean that you have had the proper training, knowlledge to perform and or say I am not qualified to do that job (vs. "I am really glad I did'nt screw that up TOO bad").

    Would you have an unlicensed electrician wire your house? Realistically....depends on the complexity!

    Thank you for the discussion.....I sincerely hope this is not rehash

    This topic has gone back and forth on whether having a license really means anything as far as quality.


  3. If you would allow me to "THINK OUT_LOUD".

    There has been much discussion over "lowballers" etc depends on how you wnat to phrase it. I don't want to rehash that, but do you think this is the type of requirement needed or necessary to eliminate and or cull out those that may not produce work of a certain standard/acceptable quality.

    Electricians, plumbers, general contractors have to be licensed and for very good reason, although different at that.

    Don't get me wrong.....I am not an advocate for more bureaucracy, just to stimulate some discussion!

    What did not work in Oregon that made them drop it?

    Have other states had similar and dropped them or what has worked for those states?

    Beth and Rod explained that Maryland

    having an MHIC license has no bearing at all on skill. It has everything to do with being a business that is following all the legal guidelines of the state, and it means the Guarantee Fund that is there to protect consumers

    NC statutes have a similar provision, but applies to general contractors, here is an exerpt from The Homeowner's Recovery Fund, enacted in 1991, provides assistance to eligible North Carolina homeowners who have suffered a financial loss caused by the dishonest or incompetent conduct of a licensed general contractor.

    http://www.contractors-license.org/nc/NorthCarolina.html#gen

    General Contractor's License

    The Board issues several types of contractor licenses. You must pass an exam to get any type of license. Here are the types of contractor licenses the Board uses:

    • Building
    • Residential
    • Highway
    • Public utilities
    • Specialty

    Specialty contractor licenses include:

    Water and sewer linesBoring and tunnelingWater purification and sewage disposalConcrete construction Grading and excavatingInterior constructionAsbestosMarine constructionInsulationMasonry constructionRoofingRailroad construction Electrical (ahead of point of delivery)Metal erection CommunicationsSwimming pools


  4. RLS

    Clean your tips if they get cloged. Other than that if your swivel has a grease zirk on it then lube it up. If it doesnt, then just run it.

    One thing to note on cleaning or replacing tips, you want to have each tip the same depth into the spray bar. Keeping them even will prevent stripping and surging. You can potentially get a tip so deep that it partially blocks the channel of supply. I also change my tips every 6 monthsor so. Even though they are stainless, they get worn pretty quickly with all the grit etc flying around in there.

    Having spare parts on the truck will save you lots of time and money. I have enough spare parts to rework almost every (minor) piece on my equipment should it be needed. I hate being out and get half way through a job and sonething happen and can't fix it.


  5. I saw a couple of posts where several of you mentions a contractor license (west coast?) which got me to thinking what are the proper license(s).

    I realize this could vary by state so I tried to search for more info. This seems like an intuitive question, but I don't think many PW carry it????

    The insurance and business license is a given, but I know there are some do not even have that.

    Does your state require a contractor license and which state if not listed on your information?


  6. I use both ESPEC and Hgher POwer for supplies. What I have found out is that at ESPEC uses imports for their hoses unless you specify. The lead timeor backorder you experienced was from overseas shipping.

    I ordered 200' hose from Higher power, specified Goodyear product and got it in a couple of days.

    I am sure that almost any supplier may substitute and a lot comes from overseas. When ordering we should ask where things come from and if substitutions could or will be made. I have also recevied different products (ie: QC fittings ) within the same shipment. Some from China, Taiwan)


  7. Mike Williamson

    North Florida Pressure Washing

    Gainesville, FL

    352-213-7765

    oneness@gator.net

    Any product when not used properly and carefull can cause damage, and that goes for Gutter Zap. I don't think it's appropriate to bash someone's proven product simply because you don't like the price, or because either you used it too strong, too long, or on cheap gutters.

    Mike,

    Your perspepctive taken under advisement, however it was not my intent to "BASH" anyone. My apologies if that's the way it came across.

    I do have issues with claims some make of their products performance and in this instance "touchless" comes to mind. I used the product exactly as recommended and in reduced concentrations over several locations. Initially on my own home and they are not cheap gutters. Neither was the dwell time more than 2 minutes in one particular case.

    What I did find was that when the dillution was appropriate not to damage the finish, the concentration was not adequate to do what was advertised on even moderately dirty gutters.

    These were my observations/tests using measured amounts of chemcial over timed dwell in comparison testing. I think if you review this and many other posts, views are similar of this product and others and people share opinions and observations based on thier experience.


  8. I have had really good sucess with Enviro spec product cleaning gutters. Either "Ripper" or the Power stroke ( I really think they are the same thing according to the MSDS sheets) and it is a BUNCH less expensive than GUTTER BURN.

    I have not had a gutter that did not come clean yet and I have had some prettty bad ones this summer. I never had any issues with damage to finish as I saw with Guuter burn zap stuff.

    I pre-wet the gutters either with my house wash or water and brush on the ripper or PS. The absolute most neglected gutters I have to brush twice, most are good to go after the first application.

    The castrol super clean, as pruchased in the store is a good product, although I believe it is chemically similar to ESPECs product


  9. Yes on the Viton rings. The cheaper black ones hardly last through a few hours.

    I have tried in-line swivels and it lasted about a week or less before it started leaking so bad I was getting soaked....That was a waste of $$$. I bought 4 of them. If anyone wants them, there going cheap!

    I also tried to set up a hose whip, that did not help either.

    I have a ball valve QC to the hose and change in and around between a short lance, long lance, extension and surface cleaner as needed for a particular job. So I expect there to be reasonable wear and tear. I believe I got a bad batch of orings in one shipment and worked out of them and into a new batch that seem to do better.

    I find that when it gets cold, the orings don't last as long either....extreme temp changes and twisting.... They will only take so much! Hell, it is barely an 1/8" thick, what can you expect


  10. Hey James,

    have not tried inside residential and do not think I would. Too much flow/pressure and potential to cause damage.

    I've done a couple of lonestar steak house restaurants where they had hardwood floors on top of concrete floors and had to be careful not to get water under the planking. It work out great. You talk about a huge difference!!! I don't know how many years of peanut salt, grease ect was on that floor but when I finished it actually looked like concrete. The manager and waitstaff were speechless at how much brighter it was in the restaurant.

    I forgot to take the after photos to post with the ones above, DUH it was a long night-day-night thing I went by today to do a quality check with management and they want it as part of the regular cleaning schedule. I have 5 of this owners' restaurants. I dont; know what day it is anymore!!!!


  11. Alan,

    I am considering upgrading to the fury system for vac, but probally not real soon due to the investment required. I currently use a vacuboom with a filtration box and pump out and it works realtively weel, but has limitations b/c of the need for a generator and or short extension cords to deliver proper amperage for the motors.

    Would you mind sending a photo of how you are set up to use your system, or if you already posted something like that, just say and I'll dig it up.

    I

    Doug T vbmenu_register("postmenu_50588", true);

    TGS Newbie

    go through "o" rings and qc WAY to frequent. Maybe I'll have to take out the qc and screw the gun to the handle.

    Doug... I have had issues with going through Orings as well. I keep a small very fine file with me, as the brass male QC's will get a burr on the edge, b/c it is much softer than the female side of the QC bearings. A couple of qucik hits with the file and good to go for a while. I still have to replace each oring about 1 to 2 x per week.


  12. I understand where you are coming from on that Don. I don't have any contracta that large, but even s few that I do have, I had mentioned to them about they may not need "everything" cleaned each and every time. We pretty much agreed that I had worked hard to get it to that point and didn't want it to fall backwards like the previous vendor had done.

    It is eaiser to keep it clean sometimes than it is getting it clean (not sure if that really makes sense!!!)


  13. Are you fellows talking about adding 12lbs of NAOH to each gallon of water to make a 50% solution. I thought 8 cups (4 lbs) was too much. How much bead can you put into water before it stops dissolving?

    The solubility of NaOH in water is about 1:1 (by weight).

    BUT there are safety precausions. I think I mentioned several above. Dont expect to just drop 12# of beads into 1.5 gal of water without a violent reaction and heat


  14. I have used Gutter zap before and not really to happy with the results. They grey you see may be that the GZ burned off the finish and the grey is the aluminum itself.

    I noticed what GZ was doing when I first started using it and never used it again. If you look close up at the gutter after you have rinsed and it has dried it really burns the finish.

    Some swear by the stuff............. Just my opinion and observations.

    I use a smaller hose for my XJ as Jeff does and I use it to apply chems vs down streaming. Had issues downing streaming that could not resolve and didn't like having to walk back and forth to check chem level, is it work properly etc. So I just stayed with the bucket and XJ for now.

    I still have similar results of the stream losing integrety after about 20 to 25 ft, on a windy day is much worse

    Congrates on your first house


  15. I am also with Larry and Celeste. I have had several clients say they think they need cleaning XX number of times and after we get into it they really on needed it X number. I leave it open for them with a mention of what you think. You can evaluate it during the year and ask/report what you think to them.

    They get what they want and have a warm/cozy/fuzzy that you are looking out for them

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