Tracy Handl

+1 here too.

Good goin Sani. As for th Packers.... I grew up just 30 miles south of Green Bay. Was really disapointed with the results of yesterdays game. My phone blew up with the texts of disgruntled friends from back home. Sad for Rogers as his record breaking season ended unjustifiably. One bad game and it's all over. Giants just outplayed them. Guess Atlanta should have been there. They wouldn't have liked playing in the cold. Giants may have been used to it and so it didn't hamper their game. Oh well, mabe next year.

to get them. Pressure Washing Stencils - Flat Surface Cleaners/Spinners/Parts and Pressure Washing Stencils

My sympathy to you and your family, Marko.

Welcome and if we can assist in any way, let us know.

A product that contains potassium hydroxide should work better than ones with sodium hydroxide. It works better on the organic oils that would be used when turkey cooking.

Sun Brite Supply will have the anuall spring Atlanta, GA., R.T. Event on April 20 -21st, 2012. Watch www.sunbritesupply.com for all the info on this great happening. See you there!

Oxalic always seems to leave white concrete a bit on the smokey gray side when used. So I would expect to see some change in the brick because of the Oxalic. Maybe try a product containing another kind of acid. Your distributor should be able to help you find one.....:)

I second that motion!

.....but keep in mind it is a weaker acid compared to others and in some instances you may need stronger depending on amount and length of time on the surface. Also, Oxalic can leave concrete sorta "smokey gray'. Follow it's use with a 1.5% bleach solution and allow to dry. This will whiten up the concrete as much as you can.

NOT LINSEED OIL! Take some clear Ready Seal and mix with the Med brown. or lightly strip and use the light brown.

looks to me like a crappy finish job where the cream was very thin and not spread evenly. Just my opinion from what is shown in the picture.

Hey pressureman101, i hope you read my post all the way through. I am very glad you spoke up to help. I was just pointing out that offering another product when there was a specific question raised about a product makes others think you are pushing a product as a covert vender. Please don't stop helping your fellow contractor. Others may learn from what you have to say my friend. Certainly no one in this thread was wanting you to stop contributing.

I've spoke with the thread starter and corrected his actions. You can always suggest products if you are not a vendor. As a vendor I would appreciate if it's not done in a thread asking specific questions about a product, but hey, it is ok and I am fine with it being done by a contractor. The way pressureman101 posted though is the reason others feel there are products being pushed. There was no injection to answer the thread question, just - here's a product. Just food for thought. I appreciate that you did offer the advice you did. It's always good to see one contractor helping another. I too am willing to be of assistance to anyone with these type questions, though for specific product info I would ask you to call me as I play by the vendor rules set up on these BBs's.

It need to be neutralized for best results. Then it will also quit sudsing.

Scape large amounts off and use the terpinine to remove residue. Best thing to do to correct the problem. Oh, and get the home owner to trim the overhanging trees! (or get them to hire you if you dothat sort of thing!)

When cleaning a mineral stain like rust is, the use of an acidic cleaner is required. There are many types and strengths of acidic cleaners and results will vary. Please keep in mind that the acid is an "action" item, meaning it "does" something. In this case, it will dissolve the mineral. (rust, salts, etc...) Pro's know that the addition of surfactants, emulsifiers, and water agents with the "action" chem make the difference in how the water is able to do it's job. These items will give you the "lift" off the surface. Otherwise the powerwasher may just drive the stain back into the surface. Your distributors formulate cleaners to make your jobs easier and faster. Use your distributor to know which products might work best for which particular soil on which particular substrate. In the end you'll get the best results, and make the most money!

Ive washed Ipe before. Pretty much treated like other wood in regards to cleaning. As a distributor I won't mentions chems, just to say I used ours. Also a litle bleach/soap solution followed with a nueteralizing agent, workes well. It's the sealing side that makes Ipe harder to work with. When using an oil-based stain, it's best to apply and let sit for up to 30 mins, and then wipe up excess. Get your customer on a 6 month maintanance program for the first two years so that each application can sink in better and provide more protection. After that about every two years.

Mark, tried to contact you with info but didn't conect. Call me. I have some info for you.

Adrian, you changing sealers on me???!!

The ice storm had us finding it hard to get to the office for three days. Being a yankee, I grew up driving in snow, but sheer ice is a whole-nother ball game! No one can really drive on ice! Best to let it run it's course here. We'll be in 40's Friday. It'll all be gone this weekend. Was fun, but I'm over it already.....

The M5 has a convenience of switching from steady stream to fan spray with just a twist of the nozzle. The originial needs the close-range nozzle screwed into it when you want a fan spray. When you draw chems up with an X-Jet of any kind, it ALWAYS dilutes the mix some. It will depend on your GPM and whether you use a proportioner or not as to what ratio that will be. See the Ratio chart for more understanding. X Jet Proportioner Chart.pdf

What Alexy said......