Tracy Handl
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Posts posted by Tracy Handl
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There is a thread called "a little confused". Check that on about X-Jets and downstream injection. I think you will have good dialog going on that could be helpful to you.
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Ken, Please provide me your thought process as to how an injector uses less chem than an X-Jet. If I want 25:1 for my chem, isn't 25:1 the same no matter which way I put it on? Perception may seem like more but geez, I want my ratios to be the same no matter how I apply. I'm interested in your reply becuase I've seen the argument too often. I say 25:1 is 25:1 no matter what. The road to get there just may be a little different. And yes, we sell the X-Jet but this has nothing to do with that. I'm more interested in why everyone says the X-jet uses more chem. Enlighten me, please. Thanks.
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Let me know if I can be of any other help at anytime!
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Ready Seal has a "Redwood Only" formula to keep the tannins from rising to the surface after application which would destroy your prep-work and result in a muddy or black finish. It really is as easily worked as original formula Ready Seal. Nice pics Rick! If you have any of the "RO" formula left after the job, it can be mixed into regular formula, or used on other woods with no worries. Med Red is typicaly the color used on Redwood wood. Hope this helps!
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There are a few main differences between the X-Jet and a downstream injector. Both can be concidered "downstream", as they are both after the pump. They both can meter your soap. An X-jet typically has more ratio range than a downstream does. Downstream injectors usually range between 4:1 and 10:1. X-jets can be from 0.8:1 to 766:1, depending on your flow rate. Most don't ever use all the ratios, but having options is nice. Carrying a wand/hose and a five gal bucket never seemed too tough to me, but if you prefer not to, you can extend the soap hose. Some tie-wrap it to their high-pressure hose and go back to thier trailers. You may need something like a sureflow pump added in the line to give power-assist so your soap stays up to the nozzle when hose length is long. The X-jet works on high pressure draw, where-as a DI works on low pressure draw. Sizing the internal orifice to your machine specs is crucial to get the proper draw on the X-jet. Your dealer can help with the proper sizing. The X-jet also is a long distance nozzle. (typical distance is 30 to 40 ft) It can be used to apply cleaners as well as be used to rinse. A downstream injector requires a nozzle for long distance application of cleaners. When NOT using the Close-Range Nozzle, while working with the X-Jet, pressure comes out at the same rate as the machine you are using it with. Both the original X-Jet and the new M5 X-Jet have a Close-Range Nozzle to lower the pressure while working in close areas where strong pressure may result in damages. I hope this has helped clear up your confussion. If you still have questions please contact me and I'd be happy to assist further.
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You'll find what you are looking for at Pressure Washers and Power Washing Supplies From Sun Brite Supply.
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Many of the ways listed here are excellent adaptions to specific needs for certain situations. I just wanted to point-out that there is a pail designed for use with the X-jet. It is 5 gals. Has a lid for no spilliage, and once you remove the strainer, the hose attaches to a hose barb - so no more hose coming out of bucket when drawing chems. Sure, you still have to carry a bucket, but 5 gals isn't that hard to deal with. You can fill the bucket with concentrate, use the proportioners, and if chems are left at end of job, put the bucket right in your vehical with no spillage worries. And yes, we do sell it. See it on our web-site, or contact me for more info. Have a Sun brite day!
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The use of a X-Jet would keep your chems from going through your guns and equipment. It's all stainless steel so acids and alkalins don't destroy it. It also has great reach so you can reach the top of a semi with ease. Certainly should last longer than the guns you sound like you're going through often.
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Hi Chris,
As you used to use Extreme, you are familar with how well it worked over water and as a "splinter proofer". Floods' Spa and Deck is an exceptable substitue for maintaining any deck where Extreme was used. Flood has done their homework on Spa and Deck and it holds up way better than the Extreme ever did. It is a two part application, and that is where it makes the difference. The base coat actually goes on damp wood (it is recommmended and prefered). The wood should be left in an alkaline state. The top coat goes on dry and can be maintenanced easly just like we used to maintain Extreme. Floods' Supreme Preformance is not recommended for use where spinters are occuring as it penetrates way more than what Spa and Deck does and isn't as effective at coating the wood fibers. It is a VERY durable finish, but the "coating" is too thin to be though of as a "splinter proof" finish. Spa and Deck is much better for that. Hope all is well. Take care.
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There are additives to make chems foam more. There are guns designed to make products foam. Then there are products like our Powerhouse that just seems to foam more naturally. Whatever works best for your job should be great. Your right when you say less chem is used, but one of the biggest advantages I see using a chem that foams is you can see right where you have or have not washed. Plus the added cling is helpful. See what we can offer you at the web site listed below.
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Keep in mind that when you add nozzles, you split the flow. Pressure can be achieved with any amount of tips. A two bar used with 4 gpm gives you 2 gpm per nozzle,; a three nozzle unit would split the flow to 1.3333 gpm per nozzle; and so forth. To keep your pressure you just change orifice size, so 19", 30', 85" won't effect the nozzles preformance, just how fast you can walk based on the spinning of the two nozzles. That's why more gpm's will increase your speed. So size really does matter when compared to flow much more than with pressure. Three nozzles could let you move faster because the nozzles have less distance to travel in the revolution before the next nozzle starts it's clean path. You just have to be happy with the flow output of each nozzle, as that plays into the equation as well.
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We have 12% for $1.50 / gal.
We can ship to commercial or residential if needed. Container price is additional. We're located in Lawrenceville, Ga. if you want to pick-up.
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Hello and welcome! If I, or we, can be of any service to you at all, pleased just let us know! See all we can offer you at www.sunbritesupply.com
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If the wood siding is stained, and it is an oil based stain, then using bleach can actually pull the stain out. You've probably done some damage to those areas and that is why it looks like a failing stain. Bleach is an alkaline just like strippers are. I have bleached maintenance jobs on wood decks and have removed some of the stain with a mix very similar to most house washes. Always be careful with wood sides homes. Latex painted wood siding doesn't present this problem, but oil-based paints or stains will. Use a product made for wood care on oil-based finishes on wood siding, that won't do any stripping at all.
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If the wood siding is stained, and it is an oil based stain, then using bleach can actually pull the stain out. You've probably done some damage to those areas and that is why it looks like a failing stain. Bleach is an alkaline just like strippers are. I have bleached maintenance jobs on wood decks and have removed some of the stain with a mix very similar to most house washes. Always be careful with wood sides homes. Latex painted wood siding doesn't present this problem, but oil-based paints or stains will. Use a product made for wood care on oil-based finishes on wood siding, that won't do any stripping at all.
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If you can't find it, though I would expect you will, we can ship bleach in a 55er. We don't normally ship bleach, but have for guys not able to locate a local source. Freight would run about $75 to $100.
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Corncob is the blasting medium used for it's hardness when doing refinsh work. Like sandblasting, the finish is being removed mechanicaly, just with an abrassive that won't do damage to the wood. Many mediums are available to the blaster like sand, walnut shells, corncob, baking soda, etc. The type and hardness will make a difference to the outcome of the job. Also different medium types have different clean-up methods. Some just wash away, others need to be picked-up. Hope that sheds some light.
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It has been my experience that taking money off the price makes it seem like you were chargeing too much to begin with. Sure it's a good way to "seal a deal", but wouldn't it be better to say, ' That's the price, but how about I clean your walkway, (or lawn furniture, or something) in addition for free". Everyone loves that word. So, don't cheapen your service, add value to the job your giving them. You still make the money you were looking for, and the customer still feels they got something out of you. Be creative and have fun, just don't discount.
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We are a supplier of Ready Seal. Certainly the easiest of the product mentioned here to work with. You can find it on the above listed site, or you can call us direct. Our Gaitersburg, MD store also stocks it. (301-519-9274)
Plainpainter - A true HVLP works like you have mentioned, but most wood guys call an HVLP any sprayer that puts out less pressure, and more volume, than an airless sprayer. No refilling of qt jars with things like the Deckster; Sureflow; or even a pump-up sprayer. They still get concidered a High-Volume-Lo-Pressure spayer even though they are different from what you are reffering to.
Cabot solid color stain deffinetly has to go through an airless sprayer.
Also, as we get closer to the cold weather, remember that RS is not temp. regulated, only moisture content regulated. Please let me know how else I can be of help.
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Oxidation (chalking) is defined as;
ox·i·da·tion
(
k
s
-d
sh
n) KEY NOUN:
- The combination of a substance with oxygen.
- A reaction in which the atoms in an element lose electrons and the valence of the element is correspondingly increased.
This leaves a chalky residue on the siding that will dull the exterior of the surface. Keeping the surfaces clean will help keep the oxidation from happening. Extreme caution should be used when cleaning. Often these surfaces will need to be cleaned, and then treated to look good again. It is very important to inform your customer prior to cleaning about the potential outcome and to discuss the next course of action to be taken. There are vinyl restorative products available. On aluminum siding, priming, then painting may be required. Cleaners made specificly for vinyl are available. They usually will contain some sort of caustic like sodium hydroxide, or sodium metasilcate, which will aid in the removale of the oxidation. Basic cleaning practices should be used when working with theses cleaners. Then restore the siding with a restorative product made for the substrate. We carry Flood Restora. Since this is not a white vinyl, this may be the perfect product to use on this job. If you do nothing after the cleaning, the oxidation will probably return, and the siding may actually look worse once cleaned. Give me a call if I can be of more help than what I have posted here.
- The combination of a substance with oxygen.
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Patrick,
You won't have any problem with Ready Seals finish. However, you could end up with a little spotting if the rain left water droplets on the surface and the oil hadn't had a chance to soak in. When the droplet evaporates, oil floating on the droplet can leave a ring becuase the water tension will have that oil to the outside of the drop and once the drop is gone the oil gets left on the wood cuasing and extra layer of oil in that area, which can show. If that happens, take a flat pad and put a light application on, evening out the concentration of oil on that surface. The only other thing I can think of for this situation is the rain could wash off the non-absorbed oil causing two possibilities. 1) a mess below the deck if concrete or anything else was below. 2) No oil had a chance to soak in and thus a re-aplication may be neccessary. If there was any amount of time between when you applied and when the rain started, like stated above, you probably have nothing to worry about. Ready Seal is very forgiving and I haven't had a deck yet that I couldn't fix ANY problem associated with the job. Let me know if I can be of any other help with your RS use or power washing needs.
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In my experience, a flat pad is better than a roller because a roller tends to "flip" light weight products. Work near the house with a roller and you'll see what I mean. Check the siding and you'll see plenty of splatter. This just doesn't happen with a flat pad. Also, a lot of boards are cupped, and a roller won't get into the cupped areas. A flat pad can be pushed into these areas to get good coverage.
Flat pads will tear-up on rough wood, or if the nails aren't set prior to sealing. I have used a single flat pad for months. I just had to be sorta careful, and attentive to the surface being worked on. We used Ready Seal, so the hair issue was never a problem. Even if they are all over the deck, products that don't "film" will never "catch and hold" them. Filmers will, and "hairs", pollen, leaves, etc., will all be problemmatic. How do you handle those issues? The flat pad hair issue should be handle in the same way. Here's a link to our flat pad page. http://sunbrite.stores.yahoo.net/flatstainpads.html
Use them if you like, if not, that's cool too. I loved them! Use what works for you. Just my 2 cents.
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Sun Brite Supply is a vendor of pressure washing products, so I do not get in the field as a rule anymore. I do however still do product research and wash buildings, decks, drives, etc. from time to time both for the research, and to stay in touch with the proccesses. I also do plenty of product reccommendation and get lots of feedback from those contractors. I have in fact been in the feild every Sat. for the last month. (Don't worry I don't take work away from anyone) Ken, as a rule I still say 1% to 3% is all that's needed when applying bleach, though you're correct when you say 6% would be needed for a job like you pictured. As new guys are often on this board, I tend to air on the side of caution with advice, though I still beleive 1 to 3% is enough. Plus being primarily a wood guy, old habits come up easily. 6% on wood is too much. I know I have used bleach that strong myself when needed. I always tell guys, "use the least amount needed to get your job done". Sometimes you need some extra "kick"! Do what you need to do. Just don't cuase damage. I've seen bleach "burn" concrete at 12%. You can't reverse that.
Beth - thanks for reminding me of being able to mention products. As I said above, old habits die hard. I know you know what I'm talking about. :)
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Bleach should be applied to a surface between 1% and 3% for a any job. House wash mix with Powerhouse can be at a 25:1 ratio. At 15:1 it should be working great but, if you are getting film left on windows, use less of the powerhouse. To clean gutters with powerhouse, use at a ratio of between 4:1 and 10:1. Just be sure to have soaped the wall behind it first or wet the wall at least. Powerhouse should not be use at greater than 15:1 on painted surfaces.
A Little Confused
in Residential Pressure Washing
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A 20% injector is a 4:1 injector. Please see Pressure Washers and Power Washing Supplies From Sun Brite Supply. and check the injector section. Any that match your specs., and are 20% draw, is what you are looking for.