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Tracy Handl

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Posts posted by Tracy Handl


  1. White OX is NOT just Oxalic acid. I looked at the stuff in the past and with the info sent to me from the manufacture, learned it was a bit different than just Oxalic acid. It has a different blend of acids. I don't remember just what they were now, but I assure you it is different. Oxalixc acid works for rust removal. Keep in mind, manufactures develope products for a varied amout of reasons. SOMETIMES it's just to be different for marketing and product reasons. Sometimes they really do build a better mouse trap. Sometimes they do blends for buffering reasons; to make the product less/more aggressive; to get different action. I see too much on these boards about how a product is just too expensive and that the same can be accomplished with a "less expensive" way. While maybe true - use of a product is usally for a specific purpose to get specific results.


  2. What Guy said..... As a distributor with the X-Jet, I get sucked into this debate often. It is a tool like any other. It can make jobs faster and easier, but it is only ONE way to do things. It isn't the ONLY way. For some, it changes their whole game and makes them better because they learn a new approch which makes better profits. For others it feels wrong because they like a different approch to how they clean. That's ok. Down streaming is a bit different from upstreaming, but I still see machines that use it. Still works.... But as people we all have opinions and that is awesome. Just gets a bit funny how passionate some get about the use of some of these options. I think a responsible distributor show all the options, then lets the customer decide which is right for them. New contractors, as well as old ones don't always know all the options available to them. Wouldn't you want to know about a tool that could be different from what you currently use if it COULD make life better?


  3. With the pressure up, as would be when applying cleaners, you get speedy delivey and a harder spray. Since you can go from 50 to 200 PSI AND the cone nozzle can be adjusted, you can really dial in. It allows you to work from pump-up pressures and mists, to higher, motorized spray pressures, up to steady streams.


  4. Most try to mount skids with the controls in a convenient access position. usually that means either with the controls at the front or curb-side. keeping things curb side is a safety situation. keep your people out of the street as much as possible. Also you have to think about your tounge weight of the trialer. What other peices will be on the trailer should sort of dictate your lay-out weight wise. Hope this helped.


  5. When you adjust an unloader, what you are doing is setting the pressure that the spring opens up at allowing the "valve" (which is what an unloader really is) to go into bypass. This will allow a pressure adjustment (if it opens at a lower psi then you can't get more than that pressure out your wand) and it also make the unloader cycle more. This increased cycling is what tends to wear out an unloader faster than normal use. Previous postsare correct to say change pressure by changing the orifice size of the nozzle. It's a better way than adjusting your unloader i most cases. (Karcher makes machines that are designed to use the unloader to adjust pressure) One of the few I would condone doing this way. keep th eunloader in good working condition to avoide causing other pump trouble.


  6. I think you are mixing two things here. You talk about neutralizing, and the use of bleach. One does not HAVE to neutralize a precarb. Its PH is close to neutral so its is not needed to keep damage from occuring because of the cleaner. A lot will depend on what is planned for the wood after washing. You are correct in saying a precarb can be used to atain the natural color of the wood, depending on which acids are in it and how it is buffered, though it may be a bit darker than the whitening effect of both bleach, or Briteners. There certainly may be reasons when this is desireable. However, if I am to use a sealer that is tinted, especially a semi transparent, then to achieve my best results color-wise, I like to have the wood as light as possible to let the sealers color show their best. When a high PH product, like bleach is used, then I need to use a neutralizer to keep my wood from fuzzing as can happen. I will get a whiteneing from the use of the bleach, which can be desireable for my sealing, but I also want the neutralization to avoid de-fuzzing work. A rule of thumb; the stronger and longer a high PH product is left on the wood, the more chance of fuzzing. So Wood Briteners can be used to neutralise, and be used to allow sealers colors to be brighter. What outcome you are looking for, and what cleaners are use, should help you decide when, and if, to use a Wood Britener. Hope that helps some.


  7. as stated above, for best results neutralizing is always best. Precarbs, don't really require it as they are gentle enough not to cause wood damage like high PH products can. Wood Briteners also do other things to the wood though. They can help keep the tannins suppressed when using penetrating oil sealers; they can help lighten the wood so a dark, muddy finish does not happen once sealer is applied; and it can take out water marks, like the ones left behind when the flower pot you left off as the deck is drying that got put back on by the customer. It's a tool you can use to get the best results. The only time I do not see good reason to use briteners are when you are doing a maintanance and your sealers is in fairly good shape when you wash. A pre-carb wash will take off atmospheric dirt. Since the sealer is in good shape, no chems will get to the wood, and the cleaner doesn't really need neutralizing.

    Use of it will improve your overall finishes, but your outcome quality is all up to you.......

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