John Orr

Is it stucco or Dryvit? Can you get 12.5% Chlorine? As for the gutters, I use Simple Green (straight - usually) applied with a soft brush on an 24' extension pole and rinse immediately.

An 8 will give you about 500 psi and a 9 will be approx 250. Sorry, my nozzle chart doesn't go that low.) I have never used Powerhouse, but if you do not have chlorine in your mix, you may want to reconsider.

Well said, Scott. Well done, Beth & Rod.

I now use Simple Green exclusively for gutters. About the same price, but more readily available.

If it checks out, I would buy it. Try putting on a guage to test the psi.

I have started rinsing with carnuba wax. The hope is that this may make it easier to remove future spores.

If the spore has been on siding for any length of time, a fingernail will not work. It will remove the hard shell, but the stain remains. If a fingernail removes the stain, its still fresh, and those are a small percentage on most homes.

For just a few dollars/pair, you can have them shortened to any length you want.

My guess is that your bleach had gone "flat". I have it happen occasionally, due to (I think) the additives I use neutralizing the chlorine. (I use 12.5%) As a matter of fact, I had this happen yesterday. 4 year old house, aluminum trim, vinyl siding. Some green, but mostly black algae on all the trim. My mix was not touching it, changed to a fresh batch and it disappeared.

I have a HydroTek 8 gpm/3000 psi 2-man rig. I run 8 gpm off of one side (concrete) and 5 or so gpm's off of the other side for house washes. (Downstream injector reduces volume - can be adjusted by swapping-out injectors. I have several sizes and all are quick-connected.

One of the reasons I like a flow-type unloader is that there is virtually no pressure in the hose when in bypass. If you pull hoses, not having pressure in them makes them much easier to pull, with less stress on everything - including me. I would think that the mfg of that coupler would like to analyze it to determine what happened. If there is a bad batch out there, they may need to recall them.

I once washed a house that had a phone pole out front with a sign advertising "$89 House Wash". I asked the customer how had he decided on my services vs. the $89 wash. His response was that he realized that for $89, there was a very low probabilty of recieving a quality cleaning job - because HE wouldn't do it for that price! (My price was $200.)

Apply Simple Green with a soft bristle brush (I use a 24' extension pole from HD). At $8 or $9/gal, you can't beat it - and it works. For light streaks, wipe on, rinse of. For heavy streaks, wipe on, brush lightly, rinse off. On hot days, work smaller sections, rinse before it dries. I usually use SG full strength. Watch for gutter finishes that are not firmly attached! If your brush is tuning the same color as the gutter, go easy or you could expose aluminum. (This is true with any gutter cleaner.)

As I understand things, gas/oil prices are determined by futures traders - betting that demand/supply will either go up or down.

If the downstream injector is broke, it can flow the wrong way. (Try leaving the little ball out the nest time you re-build it!) If there is a downstreamer, it may just need a new spring or ball. If it does, get a ceramic ball, they are more resistant to chems.

$1.88 yesterday. Too bad I didn't need any.

22193

I vote for number one. I would try (test in an inconspicuous area) SureKleen 600 and/or SafeRestore. If the surface bubbles, it may work. What's the worst that could happen? Acid Burn? ;) (See previous post to get understand the humor in that statement.)

$1.95 to 1.99 at a lot of stations today.

I washed a 4000 sq ft club house today and while there, the pool company arrived to work on the concrete pool that had been installed a few weeks ago. The pool is about 30 x 60 or so and 3' to 5' deep. There were 3 or 4 guys in the pool (no water , of course) applying HCI straight from the drums, then pressure washing, pumping out the slurry to the floor drain on the pool apron (which discharged directly into the Albamarle Sound!). The way I found out about the acid is that I was washing the building when I was almost overcome by acid fumes. I looked around and there are these guys working in the pool with a cloud of acid drifting everywhere - and not one of them was wearing a respirator! (Let alone gloves or a face shield.) What in the world are they thinking? This work was being done by a well-known pool company too. I will be calling their office tomorrow and "tattle" on their people. Depending on their response I may go to the state. I assume that the laborers don't know any better, but the foreman must. I'm getting a headache just thinking of the smell.

$1.99 two days ago. $2.10 to $2.39 everywhere. YTD I am up about 30%. Still busy with several larger commercial jobs coming-up.

Hot water will do the job. I have removed egg without chemicals using just hot water and a few hundred psi.

The owner sounded like he was taking me seriously. He assured me that the proper PPE was available to his men and he will talk to the crew foreman to find out what was going on. As for what the chem was, the drums were marked "Hydrochloric Acid". Needless to say, my customer will never allow these guys on property again without checking their PPE.

Larry, You can "feather" each stroke - kind of like spray painting. Feather in and feather out. Overlap each stroke and you will not leave a mark, assuming you have used the right chemical and the proper amount of pressure.

Jeff, I had a vinyl cover with grommets made for mine. The trailer has pegs for each grommet that turn to lock the cover into place. Cost about $140.