John Orr

Having recently turned 50, I'm starting to get nervous!

The "usual" roof cleaning mix is the correct choice. It will kill the "barnacles", but I would recommend against trying to remove them since they have roots in the granules of the shingles. Once dead, they will eventually fall off, given enough rain.

If its not dirty, don't clean it. Considering all of the bad things that could happen, why take the risk? If I were called to give an estimate on this roof, I would recommend against it.

Downstream 12.5% and rinse with the black tip. The chlorine won't damage the wood, since the Behr cr*p won't allow it to penetrate. This method won't harm the finish.

Have you adjusted the unloader? The bolt on the top of the unloader will adjust pressure/volume. If adjusted incorrectly, it can cause surging - runs for a few seconds, on and off, no constant stream. If the nozzle is too small, it will also cause this.

Weather permitting, I'll have a pic to post this weekend.

Try connecting the two ends of the hose...no more leaks.

Just to be clear, I downstream with 8 gpms...but I still carry an Ortho, just in case. (I also carry a 5.5 gpm portable in the van. Again, just in case. My point is that it IS possible to wash without a machine, but it does take longer and, in my opinion, looks less professional. It also won't help with washing a drive or bricks.

I used to wash house this way I washed houses when I started almost 10 years ago. Try using an Ortho tree spayer and fill the cup with your housewash mix.

Tony, I clean these all the time. Pump-up with 6% for the black and rinse with the chem tip. Oxalic is fine for the rust and I would do a test with the BRIXX.

Normally, oxalic acid will work quite well, but I have discovered that Prosoco's SureKlean 600 works MUCH faster. Northern Tool happens to sell a product called BRIXX WASH that states on the label that it is the equivalent of the 600. It is. Recently, Northern raised the price from $10 to $20 for a gallon, but still sell 5 gal pails for $59. Its much more expensive than oxalic, but it works SO much faster - especially on brick.

Just don't lose the cap you need to remove to mount it. You may need it down the road.

I asked for - and received - a sample kit of all the A-C stains. I had found a deck that was being replaced and scavenged a few boards. After cleaning/brightening, I applied a sample of all the stains to about 1' of PT pine. I also had some repairs done to my own porch using the "new" PT pine and used the leftovers to do the same, so I now have a sample kit of old and new PT pine samples with all of the A-C stains. I'm hoping to put together an order soon to save the shipping.

I'm not sure I understand, why can't you give him the color he wants?

What he said. P.S. I hope you've changed the oil every once in a while.:)

'09 started slower due to the weather, but it is as busy - or busier - than average.

When pricing jobs like this, I have found that the only way that makes sense (at least for me) is to estimate the time it will take and multiply by my hourly rate. I clean a house similar to this one every year and charge about $1K plus $400 for the "drive" aka parking lot.

New Again is a fairly potent sodium hydroxide stripper. I used to use it on a regular basis, but the price is too high. Until I knew better, I used to use this stuff on roofs :o and :lgangry:.

Seriously, try the Flood stripper first. It claims to even strip solid stains. I used it just the other day to strip 99% of an almost solid mustard-colored Behr crud. It actually peeled off, with chips flying everywhere. The customer was about to replace the deck as they had been hating it for almost 4 years. I had cleaned it once before of green/black, but never thought I could strip it successfully. I now can - including the verticles.

Believe it or not, lately, I have had excellent results stripping Behr and CWF with either company's deck stripper. I prefer the Flood (CWF) product better as it can be applied with a pump-up. Spray every square inch and let it dry. Just before pw, lightly wet the area.

I do 99% residential and most customers want to know when to expect me. I offer am or pm and an approximate time. If a customer has a need for a specific time, I always schedule them for the am and just make them my first stop.

P.S. I define a stain as not being "finicky" by being able to apply using a pump-up sprayer.

If spraying is not an option, a I like foam roller (I like the 6" ones) and a 2 1/2 or 3" brush for nooks and crannies. I usually spray from the outside in. I also like the 4' rolls of paper along the house. (FYI almost only PTP.)

Neither for me. I prefer a transparent stain. Semis and solids are too "finicky" for me - plus, I prefer the natural look of the wood. Disclaimer: 99.9% of the decks in my area are pressure treated pine.) Armstrong Clark has a much more user friendly variety of transparent, semi and solid stains that I plan on using this year.

The black tip is NOT 0040, its usually 6540 or so. A 0040 is literally a large-bore zero degree tip. I buy air chucks with male threads and insert into 1/4" male quick connects with female threads. 150' should be no problem.