John Orr

To answer your question, yes. Ha, Ha... Seriously though, with a "flow-type" unloader, it is, if you're quick, possible to disconnect quick-connects. I have done this with my old 4 gpm machine and my current 8 gpm rig. Also, as long as you're quick - and either have the gun open or are adding a new hose - you can re-connect them. (Yes, you MAY get wet performing this operation!)

Cleaning TREX - and all composites that I have ever come across - is very simple. TREX, when providing warranty cleaning (which , by the way, requires the customer to sign an agreement to not sue them!) ships the cleaner (mix 50/50 with bleach) and the sealer, both from PSC, directly to the homeowner. I have found that my housewash mix, applied with a pump-up, works better and faster than the PSC stuff. PROSOCO sells a Composite Deck Sealer that I just used. Works great, dries quickly, beads water better than the PCS sealer, and applies with a pump-up. Costs about $30/gallon and seals about 150 or so sq ft per gallon.

Hey Steve! Amazingly, I am on my last 55 of "Deck" Magic! (I bought several hundred gallons of 2X from another pw'er last year). I will miss it - as I miss you and your wisdom. I think many of us "old timers" owe you a lot for helping us get started the right way in this business. John

Oly Max makes a Semi Transparent and a Toner - green can. The Toner is much more transparent and easily strips - a lot like the Armstrong-Clark products. The Oly Semi Trans is a pain.

Scott, First, thank you for your service to TGS. I don't know if its "Global Warming", the Democratic-run government, a cold Spring, evaporated 401K's or aliens attacking the www, but there certainly seems to be a lot of :angryfire on a few of the pw bbs lately. Sad to see it and I, for one, wouldn't put-up with it either! (Nor will I contribute to it.)

Oh sure! Now you tell me!!:) Seriously though, would 13hp be enough? What would the gpm's be? (I must admit that it was a few years ago that I was looking to "pump-up" my trusty old HD machine!)

Not sure why, but I've not had luck with anything other than Simple Green. I used to like Krud Kutter, but they changed the formula a few years ago. Absolutely true about the temps. On cooler days, I heat-up the gutters with about 120* water. (Another reason to have hot water!)

I assume you have a direct drive pump now? 13hp usually runs 3500/4gpm. That is about as good as you can get for a direct drive pump. To achieve higher gpm's (really the most important for cleaning) you'll need to either use a gear drive or belt drive pump. You can add a gear box to most standard carts, but I don't think there would be room for belts - no to mention needing to be able to align/size pulleys. I have a 13 hp/5.5 gpm/2500 psi gear drive cart that I converted from a 4 gpm/3500 direct drive cart that I now keep as a back-up.

I can only assume you were not using it full strength. I will also caution - regardless of what you use - if the streaks look like they are not coming off no matter how much you work on them, you may, in fact, be looking at stripes of bare aluminum. The finish on some gutters is too weak to be cleaned aggressively, In addition, if the gutters have been painted in the past, they tend to be more difficult to clean.

Chris, I don't disagree with you often, but at least we have a few things (other than Apple Sauce!) in common!

Every hardware store in America sells SG - usually about $9 to $10/gal. Check you local auto parts store or Northern Tool, which carries 5 gal jugs for $48. Its labeled as an "Automotive" version, but the company confirms only the color and smell are different.

This is exactly how to do it. Only work an area that you can rinse before it dries. Even though SG is gentle, if you see the brush foaming, its likely the finish from the gutter - which is bright, shiny aluminum! I use SG undiluted and usually just need to wipe it on and rinse it off. The underside of the gutter can be a pain though. It may not be as aggressive as GZ, but it works as well or better - and for less.

If you insist on using GZ, I know that Northern Tool now carries it. I'm sure you can get a better price form one of the many pw vendors, but in a pinch... For me, Simple Green is the answer. Less aggressive, works great, available everywhere and reasonably inexpensive. (Also no-toxic.)

The lack of back-stabbing and cooperation is what attracted myself and others to this bbs and in spite of whatever rule-breakers are out there, its what keeps us here. Invaluable information with a proven track record. Quality participants that even led to the re-formation of *****. The only thing I wish that TGS would add is a notification to those of us that like to contribute to offset the costs. (I can never remember my anniversary!)

What are you cleaning? Dust, cobwebs, mold, mildew? A possible solution would be to make-up some housewash mix (for this, I would use approximately a 1% solution of bleach and simple cherry with a squirt of Rinse-Aid) and apply it with a pump-up sprayer and rinse with a garden hose - especially the windows. Some aluminum trim will "give up" it's coating (especially white trim) with too aggressive a cleaner. In my opinion - experience, any chemical designed to clean gutters is too strong for what you are wanting to clean unless it is drastically diluted. With bleach in your mixture, it will kill any mold, mildew and algae - as well as release the cob webs so that they will rinse clean with a garden hose. This method may be a little more messy than you're looking for, but since you will already have the ladders in place, this method will work well for you. I would suggest that you clean prior to replacing the siding to minimize the amount of rinsing required. I realize that you are looking for a "no rinse" answer, but my suggestion will be much faster - and gentler on the trim - than what you are doing now. This solution could also be used on window trim - as well as any trim or painted surface. Rinse, rinse, rinse - the surfaces you have cleaned as well as any shrubbery/flowers.

Other than mud dauber (wasp) nests, everything else should come clean with "normal" house wash mix.

Air chucks will screw into a 1/4" quick connects with female threads. You could also drill-out a 0 deg tip, but I like the air chucks. Just about any auto parts shop will carry them. There are several sizes available, try a few different ones, they're very inexpensive.

You can't offer a guarantee (especially if there is oil-based paint on the house) but you can guarantee their satisfaction by not asking for payment until after the work is complete and they have inspected it. You could also explain that by using the wash technique and chems that you, as a professional, licensed and insured - and experienced - contractor use, the existing mold/mildew/algae will be killed and that it will require a much longer time to reappear. In my area, I explain that no matter how good a job I do, their house will get dirty again and that my typical customer has their house washed every 2 -3 years. Sometimes, people aren't really looking for an actual guarantee, they just want to know that they will get the best job possible. (If you are rated on Angie's List, it can greatly increase your companies credibility.)

If you used the "Toner", you can re-coat after a low-pressure wash. Since the "Toner" does not leave a film, the new coat should be absorbed without leaving a shine. You might want to check with Olympic to see if the brown can be thinned-out so your fence doesn't get too dark. If you need any help, call or PM me and I'll call my Olympic rep.

The secret to successful phone-selling, in my experience, is answering the phone when they call. It seems simple, but I can't count how many customers tell me that they "are waiting" for estimates from others. That is usually a euphemism for "waiting for them to answer the message they left asking for an estimate." My companies phone number is my cell phone - and I answer it if at all possible when they call. Think about it...the typical customer has been meaning to call someone for quite a while by the time they sit down with the phone book or do an online search. They are calling when "the stars have finally aligned" to give them the time/opportunity to call. The first 3 calls for estimates are met with answering machines. ARGH! On their forth call, I answer. I take a few minutes, refer them to my web site, mention my Angie's List Service Award, 9 years in business, no-pressure cleaning and $1M insurance (and maybe a neighbor or two!) and most of the time, they schedule on the spot. A few need to call back, and most do. Offering house wash pricing based on square footage and distance has simplified and streamlined my sales process, not to mention the savings in time and gas. To each caller, I offer in-person estimates if they would like and decks almost always require them.

Tony, I just noticed you are in Va Beach. Nice to see someone else local doing quality work. That deck looks great. As for samples, I actually found some old 5/4" decking, cleaned, brightened and stained with AC - in addition to the newer PT. There is a big difference, but it appears that it should be possible to obtain even color by mixing/matching stains. I plan on adding AC to my arsenal if the weather would cooperate a little bit. P.S. The deck look great, but when did you find an opportunity to do it - considering the weather here this spring? lol

As I understand the AC products, any and all colors can be mixed - except for the clear. The Transparent can be mixed with the semi and the semi-solid...but nothing can be mixed with the clear. Double check, but this is what I was told by AC.

A simple way to help a customer disregard his ad is: In order to have insurance, you must have a business license (at least in VA). If you have a business license, you must pay taxes. There is no way a legitimate business could afford to professionally wash houses at his prices. Period. It is not possible to lose money on each job and make it up in volume!

A possible solution: Buy another downstreamer with quick connects and add it in-line. If you need to run 100', run 100' from the machine, add the downstreamer, then add the last 30'. Or you could get yourself an X-Jet.

Jim, Assuming your deck is pressure treated pine, Olympic makes a true clear, but while providing UV protection, it won't keep the wood from turning gray. WaterGuard will gray, Maximum won't, but it does add color. Most "clear" stains add color, Oly's does not "coat" the wood - it penetrates. Having said all that, based on some testing I've done and the testimony of others, I plan to move to Armstrong/Clark stains this year. Their clear is clear without "coating" the wood.